Attractions

Sonoma Valley is currently home to about 40 wineries (including California's first, Buena Vista, founded in 1857) and 13,000 acres of vineyards, which produce more than five million cases a year of 25 types of wine.

The towns and wineries are organized geographically from south to north, starting at the intersection of Highway 37 and Highway 121 in the Carneros District and ending in Kenwood. The wineries here are a little more spread out than they are in Napa, so devise a touring strategy before you set out, to avoid backtracking a lot.

I've reviewed some my favorite Sonoma Valley wineries here -- more than enough to keep you busy tasting wine for a long weekend. For a complete list, pick up one of the free guides to the valley available at the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau.

The Carneros District

As you approach the Wine Country from the south, you must pass through the Carneros District, a cool, wind-swept region that borders the San Pablo Bay and marks the entrance to both Napa and Sonoma valleys. Until the latter part of the 20th century, this mixture of marsh, sloughs, and hills was mainly used as sheep pasture (carneros means "sheep" in Spanish). After experimental plantings yielded slow-growing yet high-quality grapes -- particularly chardonnay and pinot noir -- several Napa and Sonoma wineries expanded here, eventually establishing the Carneros District as an American Viticultural Appellation.

Sonoma

Sonoma, at the northern boundary of the Carneros District along Highway 12, is the centerpiece of the valley. The midsize town owes much of its appeal to Mexican general Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, who fashioned this pleasant, slow-paced community after a typical Mexican village -- right down to its central plaza, Sonoma's geographical and commercial center. The plaza sits at the top of a T formed by Broadway (Hwy. 12) and Napa Street. Most of the surrounding streets form a grid pattern around this axis, making Sonoma easy to negotiate. The plaza's Bear Flag Monument marks the spot where the crude Bear Flag was raised in 1846, signaling the end of Mexican rule; the symbol was later adopted by the state of California and placed on its flag. The 8-acre park at the center of the plaza, complete with two ponds populated by ducks and geese, is perfect for an afternoon siesta in the cool shade.

The best way to see the town is to follow the Sonoma Walking Tour map, provided by the Sonoma League for Historic Preservation. Highlights include General Vallejo's 1852 Victorian-style home; the Sonoma Barracks, erected in 1836 to house Mexican army troops; and the Blue Wing Inn, an 1840 hostelry built to accommodate new settlers and travelers such as John Fremont, Kit Carson, and Ulysses S. Grant. You can purchase the $3 map at the Mission.

The Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma, on Sonoma Plaza, at the corner of First Street East and Spain Street (tel. 707/938-9560), was founded in 1823. It was the northernmost mission built in California. It was also the only one established on the Northern Coast by Mexican rulers, who wished to protect their territory from Russian fur traders. It's now part of Sonoma State Historic Park. Admission is $2 for adults, free for children ages 16 and under. It's open daily from 10am to 5pm except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day.

Glen Ellen

Glen Ellen is a fraction of the size of Sonoma, 7 miles to the south, but it's home to several of the valley's finest wineries, restaurants, and inns. Aside from the addition of a few new restaurants, this charming Wine Country town hasn't changed much since the days when Jack London settled on his Beauty Ranch, a mile west. If you haven't yet decided where you want to set up camp during your visit to the Wine Country, I highly recommend this lovable little town.

Hikers, horseback riders, and picnickers will enjoy Jack London State Historic Park, 2400 London Ranch Rd., off Arnold Drive (tel. 707/938-5216; www.jacklondonpark.com). Within its 800 acres, which were once home to the renowned writer, you'll find 9 miles of trails, the remains of London's burned-down dream house, a museum, and many ideal picnic spots. The park is open daily from 9:30am to 5pm. Admission is $6 per car or $5 per seniors' car.

Kenwood

A few miles north of Glen Ellen along Highway 12 is the tiny town of Kenwood, the northernmost outpost of the Sonoma Valley. The town consists of little more than a few restaurants, wineries, and modest homes in the wooded hillsides.