Introduction to Sorrentine Peninsula

The unique beauty of Sorrento's coast has inspired many myths: This, for instance, is where the Sirens are said to have waylaid travelers with their irresistible song, as happened to Ulysses in Homer's Odyssey.

Today, the pull of the sea and imposing rock-bound coast remain as strong as in Homer's day, attracting legions of visitors. Indeed, it is unlikely that you will feel alone here, especially if you come during the summer months. Sorrento's charms are not tarnished by the crowds, though, as the town is only made merrier by the bustle. You will also always find many off-the-beaten-path attractions along this peninsula, which is simply one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean.

A rocky point of land jutting into the sea and dominated by the high mountains of Monti Lattari, the Sorrentine peninsula stretches for about 20km (12 miles). It is a finger of land pointing to Capri -- which is only 5km (3 miles) away at Punta Campanella, the closest point -- and dividing the Gulf of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno. Visitors come here to hike rugged paths, discover towers and rural villages, explore ancient ruins, and sample a cuisine rich with locally produced ingredients, including cheeses and cured meats so good that they don't make it to the rest of the mainland.

The gateway to the Sorrento peninsula is Castellammare di Stabia, a modern town and thermal resort built over the ancient Roman settlement of Stabiae. Sorrento is the main town of the peninsula, about midway to the tip on the northern shore, opening onto the Gulf of Naples. On the mountains above Sorrento and on the cliffs beyond are many villages connected by winding -- and often bumpy -- narrow local roads, which remain undiscovered precisely because of their inaccessibility.

On the other side of the mountains is a very authentic and little-explored stretch of coast. Harsh and rocky, it is the continuation of the famous Amalfi Coast -- which starts at Positano -- and of the Sorrentine peninsula's southern shore. Even in the midst of celebrated attractions and hordes of tourists, you'll find yourself only a stone's throw from quieter byways and hidden pleasures.