Regions in Brief

Darling & Riebeeck Kasteel

A small town a mere 50-minute drive from Cape Town, Darling attracts its fair share of visitors, particularly in September when its annual wild flower and orchid show is on -- usually held during the third weekend in September -- as well as the Hello Darling Arts Festival at Pieter Dirk Uys's informal theater and restaurant, Evita se Perron (tel. 022/492-2831), on Arcadia Street. Famous for creating the marvelous character of Evita -- the tannie (auntie) who held sway over the imaginary homeland of Bapetikosweti, and now the First Lady of Darling -- Uys is one of South Africa's most accomplished satirists. He has managed to make even the most conservative South Africans laugh at the country's tragic ironies (not an easy task for a man dressed in women's clothing).

If you're not here in September, no matter: Evita se Perron has cabaret shows every weekend. Evita presides over many of these, but during her September Arts Festival, she steps aside and showcases the best local talents. You can also sample some of Tannie Evita's traditional fare (try the Madiba lamb curry) at her Station Café after the show. Evita se Dagkombuis (literally "Day Kitchen") serves breakfasts and light meals throughout the day: gay muffins, affirmative tarts, and the self-proclaimed "best toasted sandwiches in the world." To view pure Afrikaans kitsch, take a wander through her Boerassic Park, where garden gnomes preside over plastic flowers and political figurines.

To get to Darling, take the R27 (or West Coast Rd., as it's known) and turn off toward Mamre and Atlantis. From Mamre, the road to Darling cuts through fields of wheat and vineyards, and before you know it, you've arrived in town. In Darling, the local Tourism Information office (tel. 022/492-3361; Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 2-4pm, Sat-Sun 10am-3pm) staff will happily dispense various maps, details of nearby flower reserves (don't miss the Tienie Versveld Wild Flower Reserve), and any other information needed.

Another small town worth exploring is Riebeeck Kasteel, to the east of Darling on the R315 (in fact it's quicker to reach it by taking the N7 from Cape Town, after which you could head west to reach the R27). Locals talk about it as the new Franschhoek because of its exceptionally quaint atmosphere, quirky ex-Cape Town community and the sweeping vineyards and olive grove surrounds. As a result it's being gentrified rapidly. One victim is the 19th century Royal Hotel (tel. 022/448-1378; www.royalinriebeek.com; R900-R1,200/$125-$167/£64-£86), whose gracious façade, huge stoep and back lawns with wonderful views of the Kasteelberg mountains have made it a longtime favorite. Locals are a little disgruntled that it's been gutted and revamped, with all the character stripped out and replaced with chichi but bland (and pricier) décor; however, it's comfortable, retains its country hotel feel, and is arguably my favorite Winelands village in the Western Cape. Spend just one night here -- in the evening you can wander the quiet streets, still amazingly rural (yes, those are sheep grazing in that field) yet with enough bohemian-style cafés cum restaurants and galleries to satisfy any urban cravings -- then head towards the West Coast, or further inland to pretty Tulbagh.

West Coast National Park

The West Coast National Park encompasses almost 30,000 hectares (74,100 acres) of wilderness, as well as a 16x4.5km (10x2 3/4-mile) marine lagoon on which the coastal town of Langebaan is situated. Pack a picnic and head for one of the picture-perfect coves near Preekstoel and Kraalbaai, where the strikingly azure waters gently lap white sands and brilliant green succulents. Be sure to pack a camera and bathing suit. The Postberg section, which contains zebras, wildebeests, and gemsboks, is open only in August and September from 9am to 5pm, when the flowers are most spectacular. The community at Churchhaven (marked by the Anglican church of St. Peter), which was founded in 1863 by George Lloyd, a deserter from an American merchant vessel, has now closed the road running past it; the only way to gain access is to rent one of its basic self-catering cottages (tel. 022/772-2799). The hamlet enjoys a unique setting on one of the world's greatest wetlands. Overlooking a blindingly white beach and surrounded by salt marshes, the settlement is visited by more than 140 bird species (including the greater flamingo).

There are two entrances to the park: one off the R27, some 100km (63 miles) north of Cape Town, and the other just south of Langebaan. You can see a good deal of it by entering the one and leaving by way of the other, but make sure you visit the Information Center at Geelbek (tel. 022/772-2799), on the southern tip of the lagoon. Light meals are served, and a number of short trails take you to bird hides overlooking the lagoon -- this is particularly rewarding in summer, when the hides provide views of thousands of migrant waders and flocks of pelican, flamingo, curlew, and sandpipers. Admission to the park is R15 to R20 ($2-$3/£1-£1.50) per person, depending on the season. The park is open daily from October 1 to March 31 from 6:30am to 7:30pm, from April 1 to September 30 from 7am to 7:30pm. For more information, contact tel. 022/772-2144.

Paternoster & Columbine Nature Reserve

To reach these West Coast gems, stay on the R27 past the West Coast National Park and Langebaan, and then take the R45 west to Vredenburg. Drive straight through this ugly town and take the 16km (10-mile) dirt road to Paternoster, a tiny fishing village that -- due to strict development guidelines -- retains a classic West Coast feel, with almost all of the 2,000-odd residents living in picturesque whitewashed fisherman-style cottages. If you're just here on a day trip, time your visit to stop for lunch at Voorstrand (tel. 022/752-2038; daily 10am-10pm). This rustic shack of a restaurant is right on the beach, and you can sit with your feet in the sand while your waitress brings you an ice-cold bottle of wine -- when the sun sparkles off the crescent-shaped beach and ocean, the sense of contentment is almost surreal. The small, simple menu is in Afrikaans, but if you're here during November to April there's only one thing to order: succulent crayfish tails (R95-R190/$13-$26/£7-£14, depending on size), served with garlic or lemon butter. Other popular dishes include the Malaysian seafood curry (R50/$6.90/£3.50) and the "three fish dish" -- a good way to sample the linefish caught off this coast. If you can't bear to leave (and believe me, it's hard), book a self-catering cottage -- request one right on the beach -- through Lyndré (tel. 082/405-8656; www.paternosterholiday.com; R350-R2,000/$48-$278/£25-£143 per night). Or take a look at the Paternoster Dunes Guest House (tel. 022/560-5600; www.paternosterdunes.co.za; R900-R1,100/$125-$153/£64-£79) or Blue Dolphin (tel. 022/752-2001; www.bluedolphin.co.za; R700/$97/£50 double, including breakfast); both enjoy a sublime location on the beach, but the decor at the latter is a tad fussy and frilly.

The 263-hectare (650-acre) Cape Columbine Nature Reserve (tel. 022/752-2718; daily 8am-5pm) is home to a wide variety of flowers; the best time to visit is obviously in spring, but the reserve's superb location is a welcome relief from the coastline's ongoing degradation by developers. The campsites (R80/$11/£5.50) are right on the sea, and the hikes are beautiful. Try to avoid visiting during school holidays and weekends.

Lambert's Bay

This fishing port, the last bastion of "civilization" on the coast, lies 75km (47 miles) north of Velddrif and 65km (40 miles) west of Clanwilliam. There are two main reasons to visit: to view the colony of birds on Bird Island and feast at one of the coast's best outdoor restaurants; accommodations options are better in Paternoster or Clanwilliam, so see this very much as a side trip.

Bird Island is accessed via a stone breakwater in the Lambert's Bay Harbour. This island houses a colony of Cape gannets, jackass penguins, and cormorants -- to be amid the cacophony of a 14,000-strong community all jostling for position on the island is a rare privilege. Alternatively, book a sunset cruise that takes you out to see the marine life of the bay from Eco Boat Trips (tel. 082/922-4334).

Cederberg

Around 200km (124 miles) north of Cape Town lies the Cederberg Wilderness Area. This hikers' paradise features majestic jagged sandstone mountains that glow an unearthly deep red at sunset; strange-shaped rock formations that dominate the horizon; ancient San (Bushman) rock-painting sites; burbling streams in which to cool off; a variety of animals, such as baboon, small antelope, leopards and lynx; and rare mountain fynbos such as the delicate snow protea and gnarled Clanwilliam cedar. You can drive to a number of spots, but the best way to explore this area is on foot.

In keeping with its "wilderness" designation, there are no laid-out trails, though maps indicating how to reach the main rock features -- the huge Wolfberg Arch and the 30m-high (98-ft.) Maltese Cross, as well as to the two main Cederberg peaks -- are available. Covering 710 sq. km (277 sq. miles), the Cederberg Wilderness Area is reached via a dirt road that lies halfway between the towns of Citrusdal and Clanwilliam. Of the two, the pretty town of Clanwilliam is the more attractive base, with a few attractions of its own, including the country's main Rooibos tea-processing factory, the Ramskop Wildflower Reserve, and a spectacular drive to the nearby Moravian mission station of Wupperthal. You can camp in the Cederberg or book a self-catering chalet through Cape Nature Conservation, but if you don't want to rough it and are interested in rock art, look no further than the ultraluxurious Bushmans Kloof, northeast of Clanwilliam .

Visitor Information -- The Clanwilliam Information Centre (tel. 027/482-2024; www.clanwilliam.info; Mon-Fri 8:30am-5pm, Sat 8:30am-12:30pm) is opposite the old church hall on Main Street. To camp or walk in the Cederberg Wilderness Area, you will need a permit from Cape Nature Conservation (tel. 021/659-3500; www.capenature.org.za).

Getting There -- By Car -- Clanwilliam lies just over 2 hours' drive from Cape Town. Head north up the N7; after approximately 160km (99 miles), you'll pass the town of Citrusdal to your left. About 28km (17 miles) farther north on the N7 is the turnoff for Cederberg Wilderness Area; 26km (16 miles) farther is the Clanwilliam, also on your left.

By Bus -- Intercape travels the N7 to Namibia. Note, however, that unless you have someone to pick you up, you'll be left stranded on the highway.

Wupperthal

It's worth visiting this isolated rural community just to travel the 90-minute dirt-road trip from Clanwilliam, with its breathtaking views of the twisted shapes and isolated tranquility of the northern Cederberg. Once here, you'll feel lost in time: Wupperthal looks pretty much the way it did when it was established as a Moravian mission station in the 1830s. In fact, some Wupperthal farmers still use sickles to reap, donkeys to thresh, and the wind to sift their grain.

You can't miss the Tourism Bureau (tel. 027/492-3410; www.wupperthal.co.za) on the Church Square next to Leipoldt House. This, the oldest building in the village, also houses the Lekkerbekkie (little sweet mouth), which serves refreshments. To get to Wupperthal, drive east of Clanwilliam via the Pakhuis Pass on the road to Soetwater. Take the road south some 40km (25 miles) off the Pakhuis Pass Road at the appropriate sign to the Biedouw Valley. From here you have to travel some 30km (19 miles) via the Uitkyk and Kouberg passes.