Active Pursuits

Planning Your Safari

What are the safari options available?

Wildlife viewing is the reason most set their sights on southern Africa. As a result, a number of ways to experience the bush have been developed. You can opt for a self-drive safari in a national park, fly straight to a luxurious lodge in a private game reserve, or -- best of all -- combine the two. The more adventurous take their chances on a specialist safari and go on foot, horseback, bike, canoe, or even on the back of an elephant. If you're keen to walk the wilderness accompanied by an experienced, armed game ranger, the trails in Umfolozi, 30,000 hectares (74,100 acres) of pristine bush and savanna (with no roads or paths other than those created by animals), are rated by experienced hikers as South Africa's best, particularly the 4-day Primitive Trail. Alternatively, the walking safaris in Kruger National Park, which offers a choice of seven separate wilderness trails, are also highly recommended. For game-spotting on horseback, take a day ride in a reserve in the Victoria Falls vicinity, or saddle up in Botswana. Other Botswana highlights include cycling safaris offered in Tuli, quad-bike safaris at Jack's Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans, and mokoro (dugout canoe) safaris in the Okavango Delta -- one of the best ways to get around the waterways, unhindered by buzzing motors or gas fumes. If you've always had a soft spot for the pachyderm, you can now mount your very own elephant and go tracking in almost all the game-viewing regions, but the best experience is in Abu Camp in the delta.

Which country should I focus on?

South Africa has the best-managed national parks in Africa, as well as some of the most luxurious private reserves; but if you're looking for the original untamed Eden, nothing beats Botswana, particularly the Okavango Delta. This is largely due to a government policy aimed at low-density, high-cost tourism. So be warned: Little here comes cheap. Until the land-grab and economic crisis is resolved in Zimbabwe, visiting there should be restricted to Victoria Falls, which is close to the Botswana/Zambian border.

How do I get around between reserves?

In South Africa the major reserves are concentrated around Kruger, and you can reach them by flying directly to Johannesburg or Cape Town, then catching a connecting flight to an airport in or near the reserves, and hiring a car or arranging a transfer with your lodge. Or you can opt for the 4- to 5-hour (or more if you include the Blyde River Canyon) drive from Johannesburg; the scenery is pleasant, and there are fabulous lodging options located in the forests and farms along the way.

To reach KwaZulu-Natal's reserves, most of which are in Zululand, fly from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Durban or Richard's Bay airport. The closest reserve is 30 minutes away, while the biggest, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, is a 3-hour drive from Durban airport (2 hr. from Richard's Bay).

Port Elizabeth is the airport closest to the Eastern Cape reserves -- most a mere 20 to 90 minutes' drive away. Best of all, these reserves are malaria-free. Visiting one of these is ideally the start or exit point of a 7-hour driving trip along the Garden Route to or from Cape Town, a wonderfully scenic drive with great choices in lodgings.

From South Africa you'll have to fly via Johannesburg or Cape Town to get to Botswana's reserves and camps, most of which are reached by charter flight from Maun or Kasane.

What should I do if I'm on a budget?

By far the best budget option is to rent a car and drive yourself around the reserves, concentrating on the national parks (like Kruger) and/or the provincial reserves (like Hluhluwe-Umfolozi). The roads in these reserves are in good condition, so you won't need a four-wheel drive. There are a number of advantages besides cost: You can set your own pace, take in more than one environment (many visitors, for instance, combine a trip to Kruger with a KwaZulu-Natal reserve trip), and bring the kids (many private game reserves don't accept children). Kruger accommodations are usually in semiserviced rondawels (pronounced "ron-da-villes," these are round, thatch-roof cottages with basic en-suite bathrooms) that offer excellent value for the money (from R490/$68/£35 a night). Cheaper units won't have their own kitchen, but all feature a fridge, tea-making facilities, and a barbecue area. Linens and towels are also provided. The more expensive units will have the added advantage of better views or more privacy though. Most rest camps have a shop selling supplies, including basics like dishwashing liquid, wood, fire-lighters, tinned foods, frozen meat, toiletries, and aspirin; you can also purchase field guides here. Most also have a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Try to combine this with at least 2 nights in a private reserve (for reasons discussed below) -- the best-value Big 5 options close to Kruger are Gomo Gomo, Rhino Walking Safaris, and Umlani Bushcamps. These range from R2,000 to R4,600 ($277-$630/£142-£328) a night for two (depending on season and camp), including all game activities and all meals. The best-value Big 5 private reserve option close to Hluhluwe in KwaZulu-Natal is the tented camp at Thanda Private Reserve (R4,094-R4,554/$568-$632/£292-£325) -- all rates are for two people and include game drives and meals. The only budget option in the delta is Oddballs, the base lodge from which mokoro camping trips are made -- at press time you could book a 4-night fully catered and guided camping-and-mokoro package, with all equipment provided, for R4,790 ($665/£342) per person, including flights from Jo'burg.

Do I need to visit a private reserve?

The best reason to visit a private reserve is that you are guaranteed to see more animals, and you will learn more about the intricacies of the bush. Visitors are taken for game drives in an open-topped vehicle by an armed and knowledgeable ranger, usually helped by a tracker, and in radio communication with other vehicles. Sightings are excellent on game drives (at least two of the Big 5 in one drive), and it's great to have your questions answered without having to flip through a book. In certain reserves, like Sabi Sand, Timbavati, Thornybush, and Phinda, rangers are allowed to drive off-road, taking you almost within touching distance of animals. A typical day starts with a 3-hour, early-morning game drive, where eight (or fewer at the more expensive lodges) guests are accompanied by a game ranger and tracker -- followed by a large cooked breakfast, possibly in the bush. A guided walk is generally offered before lunch, and afternoons are spent relaxing at the pool or on a viewing deck. Night drives take place during the sunset/early-evening hours, with drinks (sundowners) served in the bush, and the last hour or so is spent driving with a spotlight. Night drives can be incredibly dull (it's pitch black) or totally exhilarating, with nocturnal predators stalking -- and killing -- prey, a rare but privileged sighting. Dinners are large, often buffet, and often served under the stars by firelight.

What's the difference between private reserves? Should I visit more than one?

It's definitely worth combining reserves, moving to new landscapes that support different species. If this is your first time, it's worth choosing a Big 5 reserve -- the presence of lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo usually means a great concentration of other species as well. The Big 5 reserves flanking Kruger (Sabi Sands, Manyeleti, Timbavati) and the new concessions inside the Kruger are your best bet in South Africa -- there are no fences between them and Kruger, creating a massive wilderness area where game moves freely. Sabi Sands is the private reserve that has the highest concentration of both game and luxury lodges. Another Big 5 reserve well worth looking at is Madikwe in the North-West, where a number of excellent new lodges have opened in the past couple of years. With a more varied terrain, it sustains a wider variety of species, including cheetah, than any of the other Big 5 reserves.

Although the reserves surrounding Kruger are typical of the African bush and savanna, the Okavango Delta offers a lush landscape that attracts an incredible variety of bird life (not to mention a dense concentration of game) -- and is a must on any safari itinerary. Then there are the desert reserves like Tswalu, Kgaligadi Transfrontier Park, and Makgadigadi Pans -- with huge horizons and stark landscapes, these support species that have adapted to the harsh conditions, like cheetahs and gemsboks (oryx). By contrast, KwaZulu-Natal's semitropical climate creates a more junglelike environment -- beautiful, but spotting animals is a little more difficult in dense foliation -- and a safari can be combined with diving and snorkeling excursions.

I've heard that malaria medication can have side effects, and I want to take my children. Are there malaria-free reserves worth visiting?

In many ways, the most attractive malaria-free reserve is Makweti, but it's also worth looking at the options in Welgevonden, a pretty reserve very close to Johannesburg with numerous lodges, as well as the reserves in the Western and Eastern Cape. Used as a tack-on to the Garden Route, the relatively uncluttered landscape of Sanbona in the Eastern Cape and the Big 5 reserves in the Eastern Cape are great for game-viewing. Staff and programs are often geared specifically for children (particularly at Lalibela), but the landscape is not typical bushveld.

I've decided on the private reserve. How should I choose my lodge?

It's worth mentioning that some of the larger lodges simply feel like plush hotels. Select a private lodge that takes no more than 8 to 12 guests per camp -- this means you are given very personal service and the peace to absorb your surroundings, and privacy is paramount -- units are usually set far apart, often with luxuries like private plunge pools. If, however, you want to get a real feel for the bush, consider tented bush camps, where essentials like hot water and en-suite bathrooms are standard features, but canvas walls allow the sounds of the bush to connect you with the outdoors. If you don't mind living out of a suitcase, moving from camp to camp is the ideal way to see different environments as well as plentiful game; and nowhere does it get as good as Botswana.

If I'm visiting a private reserve, do I still need to include a national park or provincial reserve in my itinerary?

Not necessarily. In a national park or provincial reserve, you are, after all, in a closed vehicle, you can't leave the road, and you're not trained to spot animals in the bush. On the other hand, you may appreciate the relative privacy: There's nothing like spotting a cheetah on the side of the road, with no other soul in sight -- a privilege you'll never have in a private reserve, where other guests are onboard, and another vehicle is on the way as soon as an animal is spotted.

When's the best time to go on safari?

The dry winter months (June-Oct, particularly Oct) are considered best. That's when the vegetation has died back and animals are easier to see and concentrated around the diminishing sources of water. Unless it was a particularly wet summer, the malaria risk is also considerably lower. But spring and summer bring their own benefits: Many animals have young (there's nothing quite as delightful as a baby giraffe), the vegetation is lush and often flowering, and colorful migrant birds adorn the trees. It is more difficult to spot animals in spring and summer, however, and you'll almost definitely need to spend time in a private reserve if you want to be assured of seeing big game.

How long do I need to spend on safari?

To honestly say you've experienced the bush, you'll need a minimum of 3 nights and 2 full days at one lodge, preferably 4 to 5, split over two destinations.

How safe am I on safari?

You are undertaking a journey through a landscape where wild animals abound, and irresponsible behavior could result in death. Malaria is also a serious threat -- potentially fatal. See the "Health" section, for tips on how to ensure you survive your safari.

I've heard that walking safaris are the best way to experience the bush. Is this true?

In a sense, yes. Guided by an armed ranger, you will see many things that people in cars blindly cruise by, and the experience of spotting a rhino just yards away on foot is unforgettable. The emphasis, however, is not on tracking game (no ranger would take you within striking distance of a big cat) as much as it is on understanding the intricacies of the relationships in the bush and communing with nature. The ranger is armed, so there is no real danger (though a ranger was recently trampled to death by an elephant in Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, so be aware that these seemingly gentle giants need to be treated with the utmost respect), and the wilderness trails in Kruger and Hluhluwe reserves enjoy an unblemished safety record for visitors.

What should I pack?

Pack light, particularly if you are taking a charter plane to Botswana, which currently allows only one soft-sided bag weighing 10 kilograms (22 lb.). Choose colors that blend in with the bush: Gray, brown/beige, and khaki are best. Loose cotton clothing tends to be the most comfortable and protects your limbs from mosquitoes. If you intend to walk, you'll need long pants to protect you from prickly vegetation and ticks, as well as comfortable hiking boots. A warm sweater, a coat, long pants, a scarf, and gloves are recommended during evening game drives in winter (May-Aug); you'll also need warm sleepwear. A fitted broad-brimmed hat, swimwear, good sunglasses, and sunscreen are essential in summer. Though many lodges supply insect repellent, pack your own, as well as every other malaria precaution. And, of course, don't forget binoculars and a camera (a telephoto lens is ideal) and, if you're not using digital, plenty of film, though you can usually purchase more at the camp. If you bring a video camera, pack a 12-volt adapter for charging the batteries (keep in mind, however, that electricity isn't always supplied on safaris).

Wilderness Etiquette

Because southern Africa is constantly afflicted by drought, and tap water is not recycled, try to use as little water as possible, even in cities. Don't stray from paths -- this leads to erosion. If you're in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, do not thunder along unspoiled dunes or bush. If you smoke, be sure to extinguish matches and cigarettes, and carry the butts with you. Never touch, scratch, or wet rock art. Never approach wildlife if they appear in any way disturbed by your presence -- rules regarding marine animals are particularly strict.