What's New

Argentina

Argentina is currently experiencing a strong economic upswing after the disastrous 2001 economic crisis. Yet double-digit growth figures are complemented by double-digit inflation numbers, and the country is not the amazing bargain destination it used to be. However, it is still relatively cheap and one of the few countries where the dollar is still strong. Argentines are hoping their glamorous new president, Cristina Kirchner (wife of the previous president, Nestor Kirchner), will keep it all under control and Argentina will continue to experience a tourism boom. Crime remains a concern, particularly in big cities, so travelers should still take extra precautions when visiting. On another note, airfares for domestic flights have become prohibitively expensive and the national airline, Aerolineas Argentinas, is plagued by strikes and delays. It is worth considering taking luxury overnight buses for parts of your itinerary.

Buenos Aires -- The Sofitel hotel chain has been delighting guests for several years now. Their latest venture in Puerto Madero, perfect for business travelers or families, is Hotel Madero, Rosario Vera Peñaloza 360, Dique 2 (tel. 11/5776-7777; www.hotelmadero.com).

Mendoza Wine Country -- Mendoza's latest wine lodge, Antucura, Vista Flores (tel. 0261/425-5324; www.antucura.com), is set to become the region's top vineyard accommodation with splendid architecture and art. It is located in beautiful Valle de Uco.

The Northwest -- Long neglected by Argentines and foreigners alike, Salta and the Northwest is finally coming into its own. Colomé (tel. 03868/494-0444; www.bodegacolome.com) is an estancia that just so happens to make excellent wine and offers luxury accommodations.

Bolivia

Bolivian politics has taken a turn for the worse with its richer, eastern provinces attempting to break away and achieve autonomy. President Evo Morales has his hands full keeping the country together and there are frequent road blocks and strikes. Nevertheless, Bolivia remains a fascinating place, and its tumultuous state of affairs rarely affects visitors, especially if you choose to fly between cities. Note: United States citizens now require a special visa.

Salar de Uyuni -- Bolivia's salt plains are becoming the most talked about attraction in South America, and hard to beat for bizarre and magical landscapes. The journey itself is a serious undertaking. Contact Mariana Tours, Olaneta 101 A, Sucre (tel. 0104/6429-329; mtours@cotes.net.bo).

Brazil

New lodges in the Pantanal, new beaches in Bahia, new restaurants and samba clubs in Rio de Janeiro. And of course we are always on the lookout for wonderful places to eat or shop or drink or sleep.

Rio de Janeiro -- Accommodations -- On everyone's lips for nearly 2 years, the new Fasano hotel (tel. 021/3202-4000; www.fasano.com.br) has finally opened in Ipanema, the only hotel in the world designed top to bottom by renowned enfant terrible of the design world, Philippe Starck. Rooms, lobby, everything lives up to expectations. The rooftop pool deck is a thing of beauty.

Equally distinct, and quite a change from most of Rio de Janeiro's high-rise accommodations, the Santa Teresa Cama e Café B&B network (tel. 021/2224-5689 or 021/2221-7635; www.camaecafe.com.br) offers spectacular rooms in one of the city's most charming neighborhoods. The participating homes range from mock German castles to colonial homes to Art Deco mansions from the 1930s.

If you want to stay on a quaint hilltop and experience a higher standard of luxury, try Mama Ruisa (tel. 021/2242-1281), opened recently in a century-old hillside mansion. Beautifully decorated, each of the seven suites also features all the modern trimmings, such as wireless Internet, cable TV, and A/C.

Finally, one of the most venerable of Copacabana's hotels, the Olinda Classic Othon (tel. 021/2545-9091; www.hoteis-othon.com.br), has gotten a much-needed makeover. The lobby has been transformed into an elegant salon with a restaurant and piano bar. In the rooms, the dark colonial furniture has been replaced by lighter woods, soothing pale colors, and stylish furniture.

Dining -- Located on the second floor of the Modern Art Museum, the clean and modern interior of the Laguiole (tel. 021/2517-3129) restaurant matches the classic modern design of this Rio landmark building. The food is modern Brazilian, with a subtle touch of French, while the wine list is simply encyclopedic: over 600 labels and 8,000 bottles!

Up in the newly bustling hilltop 'hood of Santa Teresa, the new star on the block is Espirito Santa (tel. 021/2508-7095), which features excellent Brazilian food, with a strong flavoring from the Amazon.

Miam Miam (tel. 021/2244-0125) is a new hip eatery/lounge/bar, whimsically decorated with fabulous kitsch touches. The lounge is perfect to enjoy a cocktail and share some appetizers.

Steak lovers can take comfort in the advent of Giuseppe Grill (tel. 021/2249-3055), a worthwhile addition to the dining scene in Leblon. We were thoroughly impressed with the outstanding steak; the affordable wine list; the pleasant, modern room; and the attentive professional service.

Thomas Troisgros, the son of a famous French chef, opened Bistrô 66 (tel. 021/2266-0838), offering a traditional take on French bistro food, at a fraction of what dad charges at his high-end French affair.

Nightlife -- For lovers of live music, the Lapa neighborhood continues strong, and now there's a "new Lapa" arriving on the scene. Just beyond the Praça Mauá, close to the port area, Gamboa features lovely 19th-century buildings, pretty squares, and a fascinating history (this is where slaves were brought upon arrival and according to many, the birth place of samba). A few visionary musical entrepreneurs have set up shop, including Trapiche Gamboa (tel. 021/2516-0868), a gorgeous three-story building from 1856 that has been transformed into a fabulous live venue playing, what else, samba. More recent newcomers include Rio's hottest new gay dance club, The Week (tel. 021/2253-1020), and Sacadura (tel. 021/2233-0378), a more upscale live music venue.

With Botafogo's revived nightlife scene it was only a matter of time before it would produce a decent live music venue, and the Cinemathèque Jamclub (tel. 021/2359-0216; www.jamclub.com.br) is all that. With only 150 seats, it remains small enough to feel intimate but big enough to draw some big names on the local music scene.

One of Rio's newest concert venues, the Vivo Rio (tel. 021/2272-2900), is located right next to the Museu de Arte Moderno on Rio's downtown waterfront.

São Paulo -- Accommodations -- Although not a Philippe Starck hotel like the one in Rio, the São Paulo Fasano (tel. 011/3896-4000) was the first hotel opened by the successful São Paulo restaurateur family. Using their many years of hospitality experience, the São Paulo Fasano has quickly become one of the top hotels in the city, located smack in the middle of São Paulo's most visitor-friendly Jardins neighborhood. If you prefer luxury over location, the Sofitel São Paulo (tel. 0800/703-7003 or 011/5574-1100) should be your first choice. The combination of French sophistication and Brazilian hospitality results in one fine luxury hotel.

Dining -- One of São Paulo's hottest (or should we say coolest) dining lounges is Skye (tel. 011/3055-4702), at the Unique Hotel. The views of the São Paulo skyline are truly spectacular, and this modern lounge/restaurant serves up creative and innovative Brazilian cuisine.

Attractions -- The hottest new cultural attraction in Latin America's biggest city is, wait for it, the Museum of the Portuguese Language (tel. 011/3326-0775). Okay, I know what you're thinking, but it genuinely is very cool, even if your command of Portuguese is only limited. Set in a vast former train station, the museum takes full advantage of the space to offer displays that are creative, interesting, interactive, visually fabulous, and fun.

Salvador -- Accommodations -- Finally Pelourinho has the boutique hotel it deserves; the Convento do Carmo (tel. 071/3327-8400) has the perfect location on the outside, and luxurious accommodations inside. The hotel's common areas -- the round tiled pool and restaurant in the cloister, the lounge tucked into one of the arcades, the large library -- are a delight.

Truly in the heart of Pelourinho, the new Solar dos Deuses (tel. 071/3320-3251) overlooks the square in front of the São Francisco church. All seven rooms are very elegantly furnished with period furniture and feature lovely high ceilings, hardwood floors, and large windows.

Dining -- The trend in fine dining in Salvador continues out toward the harborfront, where the new Amado (tel. 071/3322-3520) offers ultimately cool waterfront dining -- the room is vast and gorgeous, mixing wood and stone and glass with open views over the harbor and bay beyond. The cuisine takes traditional Bahian ingredients -- mandioc and seafood, principally -- and puts them to use in innovate ways, always with lovely presentation.

The other hot new area in Salvador is Rio Vermelho, home of the tiny hidden gem called Dona Mariquita (tel. 071/3334-6947). The food takes traditional Northeastern dishes and adds a twist or bit of spice. Even better, on Fridays there's live music.

Natal -- Little more than a year old, the Serhs Natal Grand (tel. 084/4005-2000) is the newest and most luxurious of the top-end resorts strung along the oceanside Via Costeira. Rooms are fresh, bright, and modern, facing out over the sea. Recreational facilities at this Spanish run hotel are top notch. The entire front deck of the hotel is one sprawling wavy pool, dotted here and there with little Jacuzzi islands.

While in Natal, the ideal place to get a look and taste of Nordestino food -- the cuisine of Brazil's dry, cattle-raising Northeast -- is at Mangai (tel] 084/3206-3344). Mangai offers a self-serve buffet -- or better, a smorgasbord -- featuring over 40 different Nordestino dishes.

The Pantanal -- Wildlife viewing is always a matter of luck and patience, even in a place as rich as the Pantanal. Large predators such as jaguars are a particular challenge. But one of the best ways of improving your odds is to visit the Jaguar Ecological Reserve, where an astonishing one in four guests sees one of these huge South American cats.

Chile

The Chilean tourism industry is going strong. New deluxe lodging and high-end restaurants are opening with increasing frequency, satisfying luxury travelers and boosting the country's image abroad. The increase in interest in Chile as a travel destination, however, means that regions such as Torres del Paine National Park and San Pedro de Atacama are booking up well in advance -- sometimes up to a year in advance for the travel period between November and March. Prices are on the rise, yet Chile is still a bargain for North American travelers when compared to Europe, and Argentina's inflation problem means that Chile is nearly on par, price-wise, with that country. In fact, most hotels with rates in U.S. dollars are less expensive than hotels of the same caliber in Argentina.

The bad news is that the reciprocity entry fee for first-time visitors from the United States has risen to US$132, but it's good for the life of the visitor's passport.

Planning Your Trip -- By Plane -- Lan Airlines has added new routes and increased service to Chile, and now offers direct service from L.A. and New York. Lan is also the only airline with service to Chile that offers business class with flat beds, and all economy class seats come with individual in-flight entertainment.

Chile has overhauled its transportation system with a new bus system and ultramodern highways. However, problems with bus service have pushed many commuters into the Metro system, which is now packed during rush hour from 7 to 10am and 5 to 7pm. Also, toll fares on highways have gone up sharply and can cost up to US$5 on weekends for popular routes such as Santiago-Viña del Mar.

Santiago -- Accommodations -- Santiago is now home to plenty of five-star hotels, including the only Ritz Carlton in Latin America. In late 2008, the W Hotel will also open the doors of its first South American property.

The Central Valley -- The hottest news coming from the Central Valley is Valparaíso. This emblematic city was formerly a day destination only, but new, gorgeous boutique hotels are popping up such as the Casa Higueras (tel. 32/249-7900; www.hotelcasahigueras.cl), the Zero Hotel (tel. 32/211-3114, www.zerohotel.com), and the Hotel Manoir Atkinson (tel. 32/235-1313, www.hotelatkinson.cl). As well, the city is a now a foodie's destination, with plenty of gourmet restaurants, and its proximity to the Casablanca and San Antonio valleys makes it a perfect base for wine-tasting.

Chile's wine industry has seen unbelievable growth and an unprecedented improvement in quality over the past few years. By far the most exciting property -- and one of Chile's best lodging experiences -- is the Clos Apalta winery's Apalta Casitas (tel. 72/321803, www.closapalta.cl). It's not cheap, but lodging includes meals and a bottle of their outstanding Clos Apalta wine.

The Desert North -- San Pedro de Atacama has evolved from a backpacker's haunt to a luxury lodging destination with the opening of the new Hotel Awasi (tel. 55/851460; www.awasi.com). On the horizon will be Ski Portillo's new Tierra Atacama Hotel (www.tierraatacama.com), slated for opening in March 2008. This deluxe lodge will offer packages in conjunction with a ski holiday at Portillo.

Patagonia -- Puerto Natales is becoming a destination in its own right now that a new road (with spectacular views of Torres del Paine) has opened. Leaving from town and arriving at the park's administration center is about a 1-hour drive. Many travelers are opting to lodge in town, visit the park by day, and also take part in other regional activities such as horseback riding or kayaking in the Eberhard Sound. Two new gorgeous design hotels have opened in Puerto Natales that are worth checking out: Indigo Patagonia (tel. 61/413609; www.indigopatagonia.com) and Hotel Remota (tel. 61/414040; www.remota.cl).

Ecuador

The biggest news in Ecuador is the election of center-left President Rafael Correa in 2006. Although still early in his presidency, Correa is making waves. In April 2007, public referendum passed overwhelmingly to allow Correa to call a Constituent Assembly to rewrite the national constitution.

Quito -- Old Town is starting to come alive with new hotel options and an increased sense of security. Both the Patio Andaluz (tel. 02/2280-830; www.hotelpatioandaluz.com) and Plaza Grande (tel. 02/2566-497; www.plazagrandequito.com) are excellent upper-end hotels in the colonial core of the city.

On the dining front, I heartily recommend the hip and trendy Zazu (tel. 02/2543-559), with its eclectic fusion fare and chic ambience.

For after-dark fun, head to Club Gia (tel. 02/2924-094), the hottest and most happening new club in town.

Otavalo & the Imbabura Province -- On the way to Otavalo, be sure to stop in at the new Quitsato Mitad del Mundo Monument (tel. 09/9701-133; www.quitsato.org), the newest and most geographically accurate equatorial straddling attraction in the country. If you have a portable GPS, you can check for yourself.

El Oriente -- The riverboat Manatee Jungle Explorer (www.mamateeamazonexplorer.com) has been certified by the Rainforest Alliance and Conservacion y Desarrollo (Conservation and Development) as a SmartVoyager vessel, making it the first tour operation in El Oriente to earn this green seal of approval.

Cuenca & the Southern Sierra -- In downtown Cuenca, the new Hotel El Dorado (tel. 07/2831-390; www.eldoradohotel.com.ec) is a unique and ultramodern addition to the hotel scene.

Following a dual fatality, rooftop riding on the famed El Nariz del Diablo (The Devil's Nose) train ride has been suspended. The train still runs regularly, but the thrilling and chilling chance to make the trip atop the train is currently prohibited. However, Metropolitan Touring's Chiva Express (tel. 02/2988-200; www.chivaexpress.com), which also makes this run, still offers open-air rooftop seating for this trip.

Guayaquil -- The Malecón del Estero Salado is a new waterfront promenade, similar to the Malecón 2000, but located on the western end of Avenida 9 de Octubre along the narrow Estero Salado (Salt Water Estuary).

The Galapagos -- UNESCO, which has declared the Galápagos Islands a World Heritage Site, announced in 2007 that the islands and their ecosystems are in danger of destruction. Although few formal measures have yet been adopted, the government of Ecuador has vowed to take steps to ensure that tourism is consistent with the archipelago's survival and sustainability as an ecological wonder.

One of the first measures adopted was to restrict scuba-diving activities. Scuba trips are still undertaken by many licensed operators, although some of the larger, general tour ships and boats have been prohibited from offering scuba trips for the time being. If you plan on doing any diving, be sure to check in advance if your boat can offer the service.

Metropolitan Touring (tel. 02/2988-200; www.metropolitan-touring.com) has begun taking reservations for the new 24-stateroom luxury yacht La Pinta.

Peru

Former President Alan García, who went into exile after a disastrous term (1985-90), was elected president for the second time in 2006. Another ex-president, Alberto Fujimori, (who also had been living in exile and disgrace abroad), was extradited from Chile and promptly jailed in Peru. Fujimori is currently on trial for directing death squads to murder leftist guerrillas, making him the first president in Peruvian history to be tried for crimes committed during his administration.

Under García, Peru has enjoyed relative political and economic stability, in contrast to the tumultuous last years of the Toledo administration. The Peruvian economy has continued to expand, growing at a rate of 8.3% in 2007, and in December 2007, the U.S. and Peru signed a free-trade agreement.

A massive earthquake (7.9 on the Richter scale) struck a large coastal area south of Lima in September 2007, devastating the cities of Pisco, Ica, and parts of the Paracas National Reserve. The earthquake killed more than 500 people and left nearly 100,000 homeless. Though much of what travelers go to see was not affected, including the Nasca Lines, the region will take years to rebuild, a factor travelers should keep in mind if they intend to travel to the area.

Getting Around -- By Train -- The Ferrocarril Central Andino tel. 01/361-2828; www.ferroviasperu.com.pe) is back up and running again from Lima to Huancayo in the Central Highlands. The scenic passenger train runs once a month between July and November (US$54-US$87/£27-£44 round-trip), leaving from the Estación de Desamparados in Lima.

Lima -- Where to Stay -- Casa Andina inaugurated a new luxury flagship hotel -- in what was Lima's original five-star hotel -- in January 2008. The new Private Collection Miraflores (tel. 01/213-9700; www.casa-andina.com) is the chain's swankiest urban hotel yet. The new Second Home Peru (tel. 01/477-5021; www.secondhomeperu.com), an upscale B&B in Barranco, is also in an older building, but in this case it's very distinguished indeed; it's the home of the renowned Peruvian artist Victor Delfín.

Where to Dine -- Gastón Acurio, Peru's top celebrity chef, keeps on expanding; the informal cafe/bar/restaurant he opened with his wife Astrid, T'anta (tel. 01/421-9708), now has four branches, including one in Lima Centro (Pasaje Nicolás de Rivera del Viejo 142).

A favorite new restaurant in Barranco is the stylish Chala (tel. 01/252-8515), serving what it calls costa fusión, adding Mediterranean influences to Limeño standards.

Cusco -- Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 084/232-610; www.casa-andina.com) opened one of its new, upscale "Private Collection" hotels in a historic building near Qoricancha -- making that five hotels in the city, with another luxury version on the way, for the upstart Peruvian chain. Casona les Pleiades (tel. 084/506-430. www.casona-pleiades.com) is a new, cute and relaxed, French-owned boutique inn tucked in the San Blas neighborhood. Niños Hotel (tel. 084/231-424. www.ninoshotel.com), famous for its good works and great-value rooms, now has a country inn under its auspices: Niños Hotel Hacienda, in the town of Huasao, 30 minutes from Cusco (rates include transportation, lunch and dinner, and a tour of the local ruins).

Where to Dine -- Don Esteban & Don Pancho (tel. 084/243-629), is a new and surprisingly chic and modern-looking restaurant serving Peruvian mountain and coastal favorites, as well as an entire host of pisco cocktails. The minichain also has a cafe and cafeteria in town -- all going by the same name. Greens (Santa Catalina Angosta, 135; tel. 084/243-579), a longtime Cusco favorite, moved from its relaxed, bohemian-looking location in San Blas to a second-floor spot just off the Plaza de Armas. The new iteration is more refined, hushed, and elegant.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas -- Where to Stay -- In Pisac, a genial small country inn owned by a New Yorker, Hostal Paz y Luz (tel. 084/203-204; www.pazyluzperu.com), is attracting folks looking to tap into the Sacred Valley's spiritualism, with Andean healing workshops and sacred plant ceremonies. Hoteliers continue to bet big on the Valle Sagrado, and more plans for new country-luxury hotels are in the works. The Libertador Tambo del Inka, Av. Ferrocarril s/n, Urubamba (tel. 084/201-126), is still undergoing a massive renovation; in 2009, it should become one of the valley's largest and most luxurious hotels. Casa Andina Private Collection (tel. 084/976-550; www.casa-andina.com) completed its onsite spa (if not the planned pool), and it is first rate all the way, with luxurious massage rooms, carved-stone Jacuzzis, and more.

Where to Dine -- Filling a niche in the Sacred Valley is the new chef-driven restaurant El Huacatay (tel. 084/201-790), in the heart of Urubamba. It's probably the most appealing restaurant in the Sacred Valley, where guests are much more accustomed to eating in their hotels.

Machu Picchu -- Prices continue to rise on PeruRail trains (and schedules continue to change), but none so much as the luxury Hiram Bingham train, which now costs an astounding US$588 (£294) round-trip. The climb to the peak Huayna Picchu, which offers astounding views of the ruins below, is now subject to new restrictive regulations. Only 400 people per day are permitted to make the climb; the path is open 7am to 1pm, and the first group of 200 must exit by 10am.

Machu Picchu was named one of the "New Seven Wonders of the World" in 2007. Sadly, though, Machu Picchu has made the notorious 2008 World Monuments Watch list of the 100 Most Endangered Sites in the World (the ruins were previously on the list but removed in 2002). According to the World Monuments Fund, "little has been done to address the impacts of tourism on the site or the resulting environmental degradation of the area." On a positive note, Yale University has agreed to return to Peru the lion's share of the artifacts collected by its archeologist Hiram Bingham, who is credited with discovering Machu Picchu in 1911. A new museum will be built in Cusco.

Hiking the Inca Trail -- The number of authorized agencies allowed to sell Inca Trail trekking packages has expanded exponentially, to at least 140, both in Cusco and beyond. The Camino del Inca, or Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, continues to climb in popularity and price; standard-class treks, the most common and economical service, start at about US$350 (£175) per person, including entrance fees (and premium group treks can cost as much as US$1,000/£500 per person). Several companies, including Mountain Lodges of Peru (tel. 084/236-069; www.mountainlodgesofperu.com), are now offering alternative and even luxury treks (in which hikers sleep not in campsites but comfortable lodges along the way) to Machu Picchu, avoiding the overcrowded Inca Trail.

Puno & Lake Titicaca -- Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 051/363-992; www.casa-andina.com), opened its new upscale Private Collection Puno, on the banks of Lake Titicaca. The hotel has its own train stop for folks coming in from Cusco.

Arequipa -- What to See & Do -- Like Machu Picchu, the great Monasterio de Santa Catalina also appeared on the 2008 World Monuments Watch list of Most Endangered Monuments; the convent is in danger of structural damage caused by pollution and earthquakes.

Where to Stay -- Casa Andina, a chain on the move, added a new luxury hotel, Private Collection Arequipa (054/226-907; www.casa-andina.com), which occupies one of Arequipa's emblematic colonial buildings, the former Mint House, a national historic monument.

Colca Valley -- Where to Stay -- The former Parador del Colca, owned by the luxury hotel chain Orient-Express, has completed its luxury transformation. With the 20 new super-luxe bungalows (each with private terrace and plunge pool) comes a new name: Las Casitas del Colca (tel. 01/610-8300; www.lascasitasdelcolca.com). There's also a new spa and free-form swimming pool on the premises. The big changes mean that what was once a downright bargain is now targeting elites only: prices, which include all meals and activities, run US$1,000 (£500) double.

Venezuela

In December 2007, President Hugo Chávez suffered a prominent loss in a national referendum that would have created constitutional reforms allowing his perpetual reelection and cementing into law his increasingly sharp turn toward Cuban-style socialism. After more than 9 years in power, Chávez has experienced a marked decline in popularity at home.

Nonetheless, Chávez continues his fierce rhetoric and ongoing diplomatic sparring with the United States. He has also begun sparring with Colombia's president, Alvaro Uribe, to the point of accusing Colombia of "planning aggressions" against Venezuela.

Planning Your Trip -- In January 2008, Venezuela officially changed its unit of currency from the bolívar (Bs) to the bolívar fuerte (BsF). The change simply involves chopping three decimal points off of the severely devalued bolívar. So BsF1 is equivalent to the old BS1,000. At press time, the official exchange rate was BsF2.15 to one U.S. dollar, and BsF4.37 to the British pound. However, the black-market exchange rate is radically different from the official rate. At press time, the unofficial exchange rate was approximately BsF4.50 to the dollar and BsF9.15 to the British Pound.

There is an airport departure tax of BsF38 (US$18/£8.60) combined with an airport tax of BsF94 (US$44/£21). One or both of these taxes are often included in the airline ticket price, so be sure to ask before paying twice.

Caracas -- In the El Rodal district, The Hotel (tel. 0212/951-0268; www.thehotel.com.ve) is an ultramodern new boutique hotel, with all the amenities and technological bells and whistles you could ask for.

The popular teleférico (tel. 0800/28452) cable car to the top of Avila mountain has been taken over by the government. The gondola-style ride is now open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 8pm. The round-trip cost is BsF25 (US$12/£5.70) for adults, BsF10 (US$4.65/£2.30) for children age 4 to 12.

Los Roques National Park -- All visitors to Los Roques must pay a BsF38 (US$17/£8.65) one-time entrance fee for the national park, good for the duration of your stay.

Posada Albacora (tel. 0237/221-1305; posadalbacora@hotmail.com) is an intimate new lodging option, with cool, comfortable, and well-equipped rooms.

Merida, the Andes & Los Llanos -- The popular restaurant L'Abadia has opened a sister establishment, La Abadía del Angel (tel. 0274/252-8013), on Calle 21 between Avenidas 5 and 6, with a similar menu and vibe.

Canaima, Angel Falls & the Rio Caura -- The longstanding and deservedly popular Jungle Rudy Campamento (tel./fax 0286/962-2359; www.junglerudy.com) is remodeling all its rooms, updating the furnishings and decor, and adding riverfront patios to several of the units.

In addition to all the longstanding options in Canaima, the folks at Cacao Expeditions have opened a new lodge on the banks of the Canaima lagoon. Tapuy Lodge (tel. 0212/977-1234; www.cacaotravel.com) is a comfortable option, just off a pretty section of sandy beach.