What's New

Argentina

Since the 2001 economic crisis, Argentina has experienced a tourism boom. Prices were slashed across the board, from hotels and restaurants to airfares, attractions, and shopping. Also, a recognition that tourism provides oxygen for the recovering economy means travelers to Argentina are catered to in a way they never were in the past. Recently some prices have recovered and luxury hotels in particular are no longer the giveaway they were before, but Argentina still remains a bargain for foreign travelers. High inflation and volatile exchange rates will limit the accuracy of rates quoted here.

The economy in general has bounced back and the people are more optimistic than they were before. Yet poverty is still high. Young people can't find jobs, and some children face malnutrition as families struggle to get bread on the table. Crime remains a concern, particularly in big cities, so travelers should still take extra precautions when visiting.

Buenos Aires -- With continued increases in tourism, more planes are heading to and within Argentina. From the U.S., Continental has now begun flying from Newark and Houston to Buenos Aires. LAN (tel. 0810/9999-526; www.lan.com), formerly known as LAN Chile, now operates domestically within Argentina (as well as connecting Miami and Buenos Aires). The airline has taken over many of the routes of the bankrupted Southern Winds.

New hotels have also opened up since the last edition. Among the trendiest is The Faena Hotel and Universe (tel. 11/4010-9000), a Phillip Starck-designed hotel in Puerto Madero. Very over the top in design and price, it might be worth the splurge.

Mendoza Wine Country -- Experience the romance of Malbec Country at the luxurious Cavas Wine Lodge (tel. 0261/454-4118), where you can nestle amongst the vines with captivating views of the snowcapped Andes. It's a wine lover's perfect retreat, and new to this edition.

The Argentine Lake District -- Bariloches's newest hotel, Villa Huinid (tel. 02944/523523), is a piece of Alpine splendor in South America. Choose between mansionlike cabañas or a first-class hotel, all overlooking Nahuel Huapi Lake.

Bolivia

Bolivia elected its first indigenous president in December 2005. Evo Morales is the country`s fourth president in 2 years and many people hope he will bring stability to a country frequently crippled with unrest. Others feel his intentions to legalize the coca leaf and nationalize the energy companies will further polarize a divided society. Be sure to check your country's travel warnings before your trip to Bolivia as the security situation is constantly changing.

Norht of La Paz -- Chalalan Eco Lodge (www.chalalan.com) offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Situated in Madidi National Park, it is surrounded by 4.5 million hectares (11 million acres) of protected wilderness and is owned and operated by indigenous Quechua.

Santa Cruz -- Rutahsa Adventures (tel. 931/520-7047) organizes an annual Carnival Tour, a 19-day odyssey through Bolivia. The tour starts in Santa Cruz and winds through such contrasting cities as Sucre and Potosi, Uyuni, and Copacabana. The highlight is a flight over the Salar de Uyuni salt plains in a classic DC-3 plane.

Trinidad, Beni -- Take an Amazonian cruise on the Flotel Reina de Emin. As the name implies, the Flotel is a floating hotel that takes you up the Rio Mamporé in the northern Beni province. Day excursions include jungle treks, horseback riding, and boat and canoe excursions. Contact the Canadian-based Inti Travel & Tours (tel. 403/760-3565).

Salar De Uyuni -- Finally, there's a comfortable and modern hotel in Uyuni. The Los Girasoles, Calle Santa Cruz 155 (tel. 0102/6933-323; www.girasoleshotel.com). has clean and simple rooms and, more importantly, heating and 24-hour hot water. Facilities include a first-rate restaurant and bar.

Brazil

Brazil is a peculiar combination, simultaneously old and young. "Old" in the sense that, though charted and colonized by Europeans at roughly the same time as North America, European civilization took root faster and flowered far earlier here. While Virginia Company adventurers starved to death on the James River and Massachusetts Bay colonists subsisted in rude huts clustered around a single narrow church, Brazilian cities like Salvador and Olinda boasted paved streets, walls and houses of stone, and high cathedrals gilt with gold. "Young" because Brazil as a country did not achieve independence until 1822, and didn't throw off the monarchy and proclaim itself a republic until 1888. In today's Brazil elements of old and new coexist in every aspect of society: architecture, technology, culture, festivals, food, business attitudes -- all mix the most modern with the most tradition-bound.

Rio De Janeiro -- Accommodations -- To stay right in the middle of all the action and do it in style, reserve a room in the Portinari design hotel in Copacabana, Rua Francisco de Sá (tel. 021/3222-8800). Ten Brazilian designers have contributed with their own unique concepts, making each floor distinct but always stylish and luxurious. If you'd rather spend your money on sightseeing, consider staying at the Martinique, Rua Sá Ferreira 30, Copacabana (tel. 021/2195-5200). This inexpensive hotel just opened in 2005, so in addition to prices that are easy on the travel budget, all furnishings and amenities are brand-new and top-notch.

Rio De Janeiro -- Dining -- Rio is a foodies' paradise, and Ipanema and Leblon are where a lot of new and trendy restaurants open and often close again. Hot young 20-something chef Felipe Bronze is already on to his third or fourth successful Rio restaurant endeavor. In 2005 he took over the kitchen at Mix, Rua Barão da Torre 368, Ipanema (tel. 021/2522-3730), signed the By Bronze to the name, and revamped the menu. His cuisine is based on traditional European recipes but wherever possible he adds and substitutes Brazilian ingredients, making for a modern and contemporary menu.

São Paulo -- Accommodations -- Visitors to São Paulo can really splurge. The city has some of the best hotels in the country and prices keep dropping. Several new budget options have opened up in the last year or so. One of the best deals in town is the Ibis, Av. Paulista 2355 (tel. 011/2523-3000). Although this hotel lacks a little bit in character, you can't beat the price of R$121 (US$50) on São Paulo's most famous business street, the Avenida Paulista.

In a neighborhood not known for anything cheap, Jardins has seen several affordable quality hotels open up on its upscale streets. The Quality Imperial Hall, Rua da Consolação 3555 (tel. 011/3061-1320), probably has the best location, just off the Rua Oscar Freire, the Rodeo Drive of São Paulo. This hotel offers excellent accommodations and amenities. It even has a spa and rooftop pool for about R$185 (US$75) a night. For a much more upscale experience, try L'Hotel, Alameda Campinas 266 (tel. 011/2183-0500). A member of the select Leading Small Hotels of the World, this hotel is star treatment all the way. Unlike some of São Paulo's other top hotels such as the Emiliano and Unique that have gone for modern and trendy, this hotel is stylish and classy. Rooms are elegantly appointed with antique furniture and bathrooms feature luxurious tubs and marble finishings.

São Paulo -- Dining -- Maybe it's because one of our trips took place in winter, but we discovered several wonderful bistros and cozy restaurants. One of our favorites is the Chef Rouge in Jardins'Cerqueira Cesar, Rua Bela Cintra 2238 (tel. 011/3081-7539). It's a bistro so French you could swear the bill was in euros, but thankfully the exchange rate makes this great eatery affordable too.

In Vila Madalena, we discovered another little bistro and bakery. The Virô Bistro, Rua Fidalga 373 (tel. 011/3034-4474), is more Mediterranean than French. The lovely restaurant has the rustic look and feel of an Italian villa and although the menu says French, there is a heavy accent on Italian. The kitchen serves up excellent risottos and pasta, as well as grilled lamb or steak. Space heaters make the garden a nice and cozy place to eat, even on a cool night.

São Paulo -- Nightlife -- For a night of barhopping, the Vila Olímpia neighborhood is still your best bet. New bars and clubs come and go almost as fast as the season's fashion, but one that promises staying power includes the Love Club, Rua Pequetita 189 ([tel 011/3044-1613), if only because of the multimillion-dollar investment it took to get this state-of-the-art club off the ground. On the other side of town, in the Vila Madelena, the trend is towards more upscale bars and intimate lounges. Fans of live music should check out Fidel, Rua Girassol 398 (tel. 011/3812-4225). The images and decorations may only make reference to one man -- yes, that Fidel -- but the music is more eclectic, including Brazilian music, Latin, and bossa nova. Carioca-inspired lounge Bossa Nueva, Rua Wisard 138 (tel. 011/3814-4164), features more mellow music and is a great spot to grab a drink and meet some friends for a chat.

Salvador -- Accommodations -- The Ibis chain just grows and grows and now Salvador has also been blessed with a spanking new Ibis in Rio Vermelho, Rua Fonte do Boi 215 (tel. 071/3330-8300), one of the nicer beach neighborhoods relatively close to the old city. It's hard to beat the price of just under R$109 (US$45) a night for a brand-new hotel room with most of the fixings you are likely to need while on vacation.

Right next to the Ibis, taking up all the waterfront views, stands the slightly more expensive Mercure, Rua Fonte do Boi 215 (tel. 071/3330-8200). Also brand-new, this hotel offers more luxury and amenities with primo views at still pretty decent rates.

Newcomer to Pelourinho, Pousada do Pilar, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio 24 (tel. 071/3241-2033), offers excellent accommodations just a 10-minute walk from all the main sights of the historic center. Set on the higher part of the Rua Direito de Santo Antônio, the pousada looks out over the city, the port and waterfront. Rooms are large and nicely furnished. An excellent breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace.

Salvador -- Dining -- Maybe it's a sign that there is such a thing as too much Bahian food, as none of the new and trendy restaurants we discovered serve any of the traditional dishes. We were surprised to discover that on a Wednesday night we had to wait in line at Soho Japanese restaurant, Av. do Contorno s/n (tel. 071/3322-4554). Tucked away inside the Bahia Marina, locals were just going gaga over sushi, sashimi, and a variety of other more interesting and creative dishes. Over in Porto da Barra, Pereira, Av. Sete de Setembro 3959 (tel. 071/3264-6464), has been packing them in since it opened. The modern faux-rustic restaurant makes the most of its privileged location right on the seawall; a large patio offers ocean views and the restaurant's floor-to-ceiling windows give it a fabulous sense of space. The menu is all over the map; tapas, pastas, risottos, steak. Everything but Bahian.

Manaus -- There have been a number of new developments in the capital of the Brazilian rainforest. New lodges are springing up left, right, and center. Even the good old Tropical has undergone some significant changes. Next to the old-fashioned colonial Tropical now stands the modern and sleek Tropical Manaus Business, Av. Coronel Texeira 1320, Ponta Negra (tel. 0800/701-2670 or 092/2123-3000). Built in 2004, this new hotel stands right on the shore of the Rio Negro; many of the rooms offer fabulous river views. The Tropical Business offers accommodations according to the latest standards with king-size beds, spacious rooms, in-room high-speed Internet, and electronic safe and room keys.

Chile

The Chilean tourism industry has lost a lot of business to neighboring Argentina over the past 2 years, after the devaluation of the Argentine peso. However, worldwide interest in Chile continues to grow wildly, mostly because Chile offers wonderful landscapes and adventure-travel opportunities that are incomparable to its Andean neighbor. As a result, the country's tourism infrastructure continues to improve.

The bad news is that the reciprocity entry fee for first-time visitors from the United States has risen sharply to $100, but it's good for the life of the visitor's passport.

It's comical how fast telephone numbers in Chile change; have your hotel help you find any updated numbers.

Planning Your Trip -- By Plane -- United Airlines, in the face of its recent bankruptcy, has pulled out of Chile completely. Delta has entered the scene, usually offering the lowest fares to Santiago, via Atlanta. Great news for Canadians: Air Canada now offers nonstop service from Toronto to Santiago.

The total overhaul of the portion of the Panamericana Highway that runs from Puerto Montt to the north of Chile is finished at last, meaning that hundreds of tollbooths dot its length at highway exits and entrances. Prices range from 30¢ to $5.

Santiago -- Accommodations -- The hotel industry is stagnant, keeping prices down. Don't be afraid to investigate rates for hotels that might seem well beyond your budget as these hotels often advertise incredible bargains, especially for multiple-day stays.

Santiago now has South America's first Ritz-Carlton, El Alcalde 15 (tel. 800/241-3333 from the U.S., or 2/470-8500; www.ritzcarlton.com), which opened in May 2003.

The Central Valley -- Viña del Mar's newest lodging option is the Hotel del Mar, Av. San Martín 199 (tel. 600/700-6000; www.hoteldelmar.cl), which abuts the grand, classic casino. Its beautiful seaside views and a sumptuous indoor pool and gym are draws, but this hotel needs to work out a few bugs in its service. Great location nonetheless.

Chile's wine industry has seen unbelievable growth and an unprecedented improvement in quality over the past few years. The new Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza, Plaza de Armas 286, Santa Cruz (tel. 72/821010; www.hotelsantacruzplaza.cl), in the heart of the Colchagua Valley, serves as an excellent jumping-off point to sample the wonderful varieties Chile has to offer. The Hotel Santa Cruz will organize day tours with the Ruta del Vino, or you can just rent a car and explore at your own pace.

The Chilean Lake District -- Pucón's new airport (no phone), minutes from the center of town, is now operational, saving you from the tedious 1 1/2-hour drive from Temuco. LanAirlines (tel. 600/600-4000; www.lan.com) jets arrive from Santiago on Friday and Sunday, in high season only.

The Airesbuenos International Hostel, General Lagos 1036 (tel./fax 63/206304; www.airesbuenos.cl), opened in one of Valdivia's most beautiful historical mansions. In addition to private rooms with en-suite bathrooms, there are bunk beds for $15 for those traveling on a tight budget.

A notable addition to the vibrant restaurant scene in Puerto Varas is Mediterráneo, Santa Rosa 068, on the corner of Portales (tel. 65/237268), serves up imaginative Chilean-Mediterranean fusion dishes in a great location with a view of the water.

Also, a deluxe hotel has opened in Puerto Montt. The sleek seven-story Gran Pacífico, Urmeneta 719 (tel. 65/482100; www.hotelgranpacifico.cl), towers over the city's harbor and offers breathtaking views from its Art Deco rooms, which come with large-screen TVs and small marble bathrooms.

Ecuador

The biggest news is the turbulent political situation in the country. Ecuador's congress ousted President Lucio Gutierrez in April 2005 amid spreading antigovernment street protests. The situation calmed down quickly when Gutierrez was sacked and fled to Colombia. He returned in October 2005 and was immediately arrested upon his arrival. At press time, he had vowed to topple the current president, Alfredo Palacio. But he is not seen as having the support to do so. The security situation in the country is good, tourism is booming, and the economy is stable.

Getting Around -- Ecuador's national airline Tame (tel. 02/2909-900; www.tame.com.ec) is finally replacing its aging fleet of Boeing jets with a mix of brand-new Airbus and Embraer jets. The new aircraft should all be in service by mid-2006.

Quito -- The city's new attraction has taken Quito by storm. Families from all over Ecuador line up for over an hour to ride the new cable cars up the side of Pichincha volcano to 4,050m (13, 280 ft.) to look out at sweeping views of the mountains and their city spread beneath their feet. El Teleferico (Volqano Park) offers a Fast Pass ticket for $7 so that you can avoid the long lines.

The city's swankiest hotel, the JW Marriott (tel. 02/2972-000; www.marriott.com) is offering a fantastic weekend rate throughout 2006 for $119 per double room. This rate is available year-round from Friday to Sunday. The hotel is in the process of opening a Champions Sports bar, scheduled to open in mid-2006.

Locals are flocking to Mama Clorinda (Reina Victoria 1144 and Calama, tel. 02/2544-362), Quito's newest restaurant, featuring traditional recipes from the highlands. Main courses are only $3 to $7.

Cuenca -- Getting There -- Aerogal (tel. 0800/2237-6425; www.aerogal.com.ec) now offers daily flights between Quito and Cuenca with fares as low as $49 each way.

Guayaquil -- What to See & Do -- After many years under construction, the Museo Antropológico y de Arte Contemporáneo (Malecon, Simon Bolivar and Loja; tel. 04/2327-402) finally opened in 2004 at the tip of the Malecon. In addition to exhibiting recent archaeological finds from the coastal region of Ecuador, the museum features temporary exhibits by local artists, including short films about their life and work.

The area all around this museum is now the safest and most frequented spot in the city, especially after dark when tourist police are visibly present. Nearby, up Cerro Santa Ana, the Museo Naval is under construction and is scheduled to open in the next year.

The Galapagos -- Privately owned airline Aerogal (tel. 0800/2237-6425; www.aerogal.com.ec) now flies into both Baltra and San Cristobal airports in the Galapagos. However, Baltra airport is closed temporarily for re-surfacing until January 2006. Until then, all flights operated by both Tame and Aerogal arrive into San Cristobal airport.

Peru

Peru had a rough time of it during the first couple of years of Alejandro Toledo's administration, with strikes by public workers and several cabinet reorganizations, but international interest in Peru continues to grow. The recent discoveries of still more "lost" Inca cities has added to the fascination of Machu Picchu and given a fresh jolt to the appeal of the Inca Trail and Peru's ancient ruins. Simmering unrest and widespread dissatisfaction among Peruvians, and discord in neighboring Bolivia (which some observers expected to spill over to Peru), have so far not affected travel in any part of the country.

Getting Around -- By Train -- The Ferrocarril Central Andino tel. 01/361-2828; www.ferroviasperu.com.pe), the highest passenger train in the world, is back up and running again from Lima to Huancayo in the Central Highlands. The scenic passenger train runs once a month between July and September ($38 round-trip), leaving from the Estación de Desamparados in Lima.

Lima -- Where to Stay -- The long-time favorite hostel of backpackers, Mochileros (in Barranco) has closed, though its popular pub, Dirty Nelly's, continues to draw throngs of young people.

Where to Dine -- Gastón Acurio, the driving force behind Peru's best restaurant, Astrid y Gastón (tel. 01/444-1496), is the celebrity chef du jour and is on a roll. Not only has he opened branches of Astrid y Gastón in Bogotá, Quito, and Santiago, his new restaurant La Mar (tel. 01/421-3365), an upscale cevichería in Miraflores, is the place Limeños are all lining up to get in.

Nasca Lines -- Prices for one-day, round-trip excursions from Lima to Nasca, including an overflight to see the lines, have skyrocketed (to $300-$350 per person) on AeroCondor (tel. 01/614-6014; www.aerocondor.com.pe). and AeroIca (tel. 01/445-0859; www.aeroica.net/icahomeing.html). At present, however, there are still no independent flights from Lima to Nasca or nearby Ica.

Cusco -- Visitor Information -- A new iperu office, Av. El Sol, 103, of. 102 (tel. 084/234-498), is open daily from 8:30am to 7:30pm and appears to be more helpful than the larger, central municipal office.

What to See & Do -- Cusco's tourist pass, or boleto turístico, is still required for visiting 16 of the most important sights in and around Cusco, though the price has doubled; a full ticket now costs S/70 ($20) for adults and S/35 ($10) for students with ID and children. Also, Cusco's cathedral is no longer included on the boleto; admission is separate (S/13, or $3.75, adults; S/4, or $1.15, students and children).

Shopping -- The Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco, Av. El Sol 603 (tel. 084/228-117; www.textilescusco.org), is one of the best spots to shop for textiles and crafts; not only does it give 70% of sales to communities and individual artisans, it also features weaving demonstrations and a textiles museum.

Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 01/446-8848; www.casa-andina.com), the Peruvian hotel chain, now has three hotels in downtown Cusco and will soon be adding one of its new upscale Private Collection hotels in a historic building near Qoricancha. Niños Hotel (tel. 084/231-424; www.ninoshotel.com), famous for its good works and great-value rooms, has added a second hotel in Cusco, as well as a bunch more adopted Peruvian street children.

Where to Dine -- Jack's Café Bar, Choquechaca 509 (tel. 084/806-960), has quickly become one of the most popular gringo hangouts in Cusco, serving very good meals at all hours of the day.

The Sacred Valley Of The Incas -- Where to Stay -- Hoteliers are betting big on the Valle Sagrado; new country-luxury hotels are popping up all over the region. Two of the newest and best are Casa Andina Private Collection (tel. 084/976-550; www.casa-andina.com) and Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge (tel. 084/251-526; www.vallesagradolodge.com).

Hiking the Inca Trail -- The Camino del Inca, or Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, continues to climb in popularity and price; standard-class treks, the most common and economical service, cost between $280 and $330 per person, including entrance fees.

The Southern Amazon: Tambopata & Manu -- Formerly called the Tambopata-Candamo Reserve, the Amazon jungle near Puerto Maldonado (and the Madre de Dios and Tambopata rivers) is now called the Tambopata National Reserve.

Manu Biosphere Reserve -- Manu remains complicated to get to, especially now that the Peruvian air force has had to take over flights into Boca Manu, the gateway. Manu is for those with plenty of time and money.

Tambopata -- Recently revamped, Reserva Amazónica (tel. 01/610-0404; toll-free in U.S. and Canada, 800/442-5042; www.inkaterra.com), one of the oldest lodges in the southern Peruvian Amazon, has quickly become its most stylish. Owned by the folks behind Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, it has plush African-style bungalows and a swank dining room/lounge, perfect for showing off your safari wear.

Puno & Lake Titicaca -- Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 01/446-8848; www.casa-andina.com), the Peruvian hotel chain, now has two hotels in Puno and is adding a third, an installment of its upscale Private Collection series, on the banks of Lake Titicaca.

Arequipa -- What to See & Do -- The cathedral, one of the most prominent victims of the 2001 earthquake, has now been fully restored and is open for visits and Mass.

The Museo Santuarios Andinos, home to the mummy of Juanita, the Ice Maiden of Ampato, has moved to a new location at La Merced 110 (tel. 054/200-345).

Where to Stay -- The best new hotel in town -- and in Peru for that matter -- is Casa Arequipa (tel. 054/284-219; www.arequipacasa.com), a small boutique hotel offering real luxury for a bargain price.

Where to Dine -- My favorite new restaurant in Arequipa is La Trattoria del Monasterio (tel. 054/204-062), built into the wall of the Santa Catalina monastery; the menu was conceived by the ubiquitous famed chef Gastón Acurio.

Colca Valley -- A long new tract of road from Arequipa to Chivay has been paved, and the final 23 km (14 miles) of dirt road should be paved in the near future, making the journey to see the villages and giant Andean condors of Colca Canyon considerably less painful and time consuming.

Uruguay

Like its Southern neighbor Argentina, Uruguay has made a remarkable economic recovery in the last 2 years and Punta del Este is once again thronged with jet-setting Argentines. Actually, it's a bit too popular. To avoid the herd, go north to the now ultrachic La Barra del Maldonado.

Venezula

Despite the fierce rhetoric and ongoing diplomatic sparring with the United States, Venezuela's political situation has calmed somewhat, and -- thanks to skyrocketing oil prices -- the economy is strong. Caracas continues to be relatively inhospitable, but anyone venturing farther afield will find wonderful adventures, abundant wildlife, deserted beaches, and almost no crowds.

Planning Your Trip -- The country's Ministry of Tourism (MINTUR; tel. 0212/208-4511; www.mintur.gob.ve) was formed in 2005, in order to either directly replace or oversee several other rudderless bureaucracies. However, they offer precious little in the way of information or help geared towards individual travelers.

In January 2002, the government fixed the official exchange rate and instituted a series of monetary reform policies. These policies have made it very hard for Venezuelan citizens and businesses to exchange bolivares for dollars. This has led to a thriving black market. At press time, the official exchange rate is 2,147Bs to the dollar. However, the real exchange rate ranges between 2,300Bs and 2,500Bs to the dollar.

Conviasa (tel. 0500/266-8472; www.conviasa.aero) is a new, state-run airline company, with a good fleet of modern jet aircraft and a wide range of commuter flights around Venezuela.

There is an airport departure tax of 76,000 Bs ($35). This fee is sometimes included in the airline ticket price, so be sure to ask before paying twice.

Caracas -- The Eurobuilding Express Hotel (tel. 0212/700-0700; www.hoteleuroexpress.com) is a new, business-class hotel located just outside the grounds of the Simon Bolivar International airport in Maiquetía.

By the time this book goes to press, the JW Marriott Hotel (tel. 888/236-2427; www.marriott.com) will have added a new Japanese restaurant and sushi bar.

One new restaurant, Hoja Santa (tel. 0212/283-3767; 6th Tranversal, between Avenidas 3 and 4, Los Palos Grandes) is shaking up the local dining scene, with creative and eclectic Nuevo Latino cuisine.

Isla De Margarita -- El Rancho de Pablo and Il Positano have both opened sister restaurants in the Sambil mall.

Two new and neighboring seafront cafes, Guayoyo Café (tel. 0295/262-4514) and Mykonis Lounge (tel. 0295/267-1850), have added a touch of style and class to the Pampatar dining and nightlife scene.

Los Roques National Park -- All visitors to Los Roques must pay a 30,000Bs ($14) one-time entrance fee for the national park, good for the duration of your stay.

Blue Star Airline (tel. 0412/310-1962; www.bluestar.us) is a small, new, economical commuter airline servicing Los Roques, in conjunction with its own posada, Posada Acquamarina (tel. 0412/310-1962; www.posada-acquamarina.com).

Merida, The Andes & Los Llanos -- The new Posada Casa Sol (tel. 0274/252-4164; www.posadacasasol.com) is easily the most unique and stylish place in Merida. Located in the heart of this small, colonial mountain city, it should be the first choice for just about any visitor to Venezuela's Andes.

Several other operators have begun offering canyoning tours out of Merida; however, I strongly recommend you stick with the original, and most dependable, operator: Arassari Treks (tel./fax 0274/252-5879; www.arassari.com).

Canaima, Angel Falls & The Rio Caura -- Both Akanan Travel & Adventure (tel. 0212/715-5433 or 0414/116-0107; www.akanan.com) or Cacao Expeditions (tel. 0212/977-1234; www.cacaotravel.com) have begun running excellent, multiday trips to the isolated and remote Río Caura and Para Falls area.