The Best Markets

San Telmo antiques market, Buenos Aires: The Sunday market is as much a cultural event as a commercial event, as old-time tango and milonga dancers take to the streets with other performers. Here you will glimpse Buenos Aires much as it was at the beginning of the 20th century.

The Witch Doctors' Market, La Paz: This is one of the most unusual markets in South America. The stalls are filled with llama fetuses and all sorts of good-luck charms. Locals come here to buy magic potions or small trinkets that will bring them wealth, health, or perhaps a good harvest. You'll be sure to find unique gifts here for all your friends at home.

Mercado Adolpho Lisboa, Manaus: This is a beautiful iron-and-glass copy of Paris's now-demolished market hall in Les Halles. It's a great place to see fruits and fish fresh from the Amazon, but it's not for the squeamish. Vendors cut and clean the fish on the spot; some of the chopped-in-half catfish still wriggle. A short walk downstream, you can watch Amazon riverboats load up on supplies at the Feira do Produtor.

Ver-o-Peso Market, Belém: The Ver-o-Peso is a vast waterside cornucopia featuring outrageously strange Amazon fish, hundreds of species of Amazon fruits found nowhere else, traditional medicine love potions, and just about anything else produced in the Amazon, all of it cheap, cheap, cheap.

Mercado Central, Santiago: It would be a crime to visit Chile and not sample the rich variety of fish and shellfish available here, and this vibrant market is the best place to experience the country's love affair with its fruits of the sea. Nearly every edible (and seemingly inedible) creature is for sale, from sea urchins to the alien-looking and unfamiliar piure, among colorful bushels of fresh vegetables and some of the most aggressive salesmen this side of the Andes.

Feria Artesanal de Angelmó, Puerto Montt: Stretching along several blocks of the Angelmó port area of Puerto Montt are rows and rows of stalls stocked with arts and crafts, clothing, and novelty items from the entire surrounding region, even Chiloé. This market is set up to buy, buy, buy! and it imparts little local color, but chances are you'll find yourself here before Temuco, which is more off the beaten path. Be sure to bargain for everything.

Otavalo, Ecuador: Otavalo is probably one of the most famous markets in South America for good reason: You won't find run-of-the-mill tourist trinkets here. The local people are well known for their masterful craftsmanship -- you can buy alpaca scarves, hand-woven bags, and a variety of other exquisite handmade goods.

Pisac, Peru: Thousands of tourists descend each Sunday morning on Pisac's liveliest handicrafts market, which takes over the central plaza and spills across adjoining streets. Many sellers, decked out in the dress typical of their villages, come from remote populations high in the mountains. Village officials lead processions around the square after Mass. Pisac is one of the best spots for colorful Andean textiles, including rugs, alpaca sweaters, and ponchos. Some travelers, though, like Chinchero (also in the Sacred Valley) even better; it's slightly more authentic, the artisans (in village dress) themselves sell their goods, and the setting is dramatic.

Mercado del Puerto, Montevideo: The Mercado del Puerto (Port Market) takes place afternoons and weekends, letting you sample the flavors of Uruguay, from small empanadas to enormous barbecued meats. Saturday is the best day to visit, when cultural activities accompany the market.

Hannsi Centro Artesanal, El Hatillo (tel. 0212/963-7184; www.hannsi.com.ve): This huge indoor bazaar has everything from indigenous masks to ceramic wares to woven baskets. The selection is broad and covers everything from trinkets to pieces of the finest craftsmanship. Most of the major indigenous groups of Venezuela are represented, including the Yanomami, Guajiro, Warao, Pemón, and Piaroa.