Reggae, Jerk Barbecue & Callaloo Fritters -- At Treasure Beach there are ramshackle thatched-roof huts where you can order a Red Stripe beer and escape from the fierce sun under a cooling palm tree. Our favorite is Winsome's on the Beach at Frenchman's Bay (no phone), where you can order freshly made fish chowder, callaloo fritters, and chicken adobe, the house specialty, which is cooked in a coconut milk and ginger-laced tomato sauce. Grilled kingfish in escoveitch (pickled carrots, onions, and specialties) is another specialty. Along Treasure Beach Road you'll come upon Diners Delite (no phone), serving such classic Jamaican dishes as okra and salt fish, chicken stew, and braised oxtail.
Bammy with Your Fish Fry -- Escaping dining rooms, you can relax on the beach just an hour east from Treasure Beach at the little fishing village of Alligator Pond. Once here, you'll see a thatched hut, Little Ochi (tel. 876/965-4449), which serves the best and freshest fish in the area. Your choice, of course, is based on the day's catch, brought in fresh by the fishermen that morning. Select your own fish and tell the chef how you want it cooked. A fish dinner costs around $10, and it comes with bammy (the local name for cassava bread) and a "festival" (translated as cornmeal cake). To carb out, rice and peas accompany all fish platters.
