Plenty Water Deh 'Bout
Jamaica's most bizarre bar, the Pelican Bar at Parottee Point (tel. 876/354-4218), lies on a shoal off this point and stands in shallow water on stilts made from acacia trees. Surely there is no more ramshackle bar in the Caribbean than the little hut of Floyd (real name Denever Delroy Forbes). Under a half-thatched half-tarp roof, he serves yachties and boaters seeking a pit stop as they head up the Black River. This rickety structure looks as if it's going to fall into the sea at any minute, but is usually packed with patrons. Many drinkers enjoy their rum punches or their Red Stripe beer while standing in the shallow waters around the patchwork bar of wood and other materials called "tings." Amazingly, if you notify him in advance, Floyd will even cook your dinner -- fresh fish, fried or steamed, or maybe freshly caught Caribbean lobster for that special treat. His stove? Two car wheel rims fired by wood. His house cocktail is Pelican Perfection, a concoction made with lime juice, sugar, white rum, and ginger beer.
For a look at the Black River, its mangrove swamps, and crocodiles, the best tours are offered by South Coast Safaris. Tours are led by the town's most popular local character, extrovert Charles Swabey. The 1 1/2-hour tour covers 19km (12 miles) upstream and back and costs US$17 (£8.50) for adults, US$8.25 (£4.15) for children; tours leave daily at 9 and 11am and 12:30, 2, and 3:30pm. Children under 3 go free but probably shouldn't be taken at all, unless they are held onto firmly. South Coast Safaris is at 1 Crane Rd., Black River (tel. 876/965-2513).
