What's New

Much of what is so fascinating to travelers in Southeast Asia is the ephemeral: that friendly shopkeeper who invites you to sample something new, a hole-in-the-wall antiques store, a local specialty served at street side, seemingly impromptu festivals, and the kindness of strangers. These serendipitous moments -- some call them "trail magic" -- are what make exploring this part of the world so memorable and yet so maddening for the publisher of a guidebook to chronicle. Those quaint little corners are as fickle as shooting stars and can often be found only by searching, only to disappear or change if sought after again. Our advice: Search away! Follow a passion -- an interest in local cuisine, history, or architecture -- and ask around. Go where the locals go. Accept invites where appropriate and take your time -- things unfold slowly in this part of the world. Visitors come away with their own unique experiences and impressions in even the shortest visit to this diverse region.

Below we list a few of the major changes in this updated edition. Travelers to Southeast Asia need to be hip to fluctuations in the international airline scene in today's cautious climate. While some Asian airlines have eliminated North American routes, many North American carriers have begun offering rock-bottom rates for premium flights, and there are even some new international connections. Check with ticket consolidators or carriers that sell regional multi-stop tickets: Check out Cathay Pacific (www.cathay.com), for example, or look into special travel passes arranged by ASEAN (www.asean-tourism.com).

Safety is on the mind of every traveler these days, and despite the public-relations disaster of the SARS crisis, avian influenza, and some political hot spots in the region, the well-informed traveler in Southeast Asia can be sure of a trouble-free trip and manageable adventures.

Thailand

Tourists in Thailand woke up on the morning of September 20, 2006, to discover that this once idyllic Southeast Asian paradise, renowned worldwide as the "Land of Smiles," was now under the rule of a military junta, and they fled by the thousands.

Well, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration. For visitors here during the coup, the only inconvenience was that tourist spots in Bangkok were shut down for a day. Unless they saw an English-language newspaper or got a call from a nervous friend or loved one, chances are travelers outside of Bangkok were not immediately aware that anything in the capital was amiss.

True, the country is currently ruled by the military, but by the time you read this, new elections will hopefully have been held (although this seems increasingly unlikely) and civilian government restored. The worry is that the junta will drag its feet setting up new elections, causing unrest amongst a population already wary of its motives. But for now, we'll cross our fingers and think happy thoughts.

Although the coup was not violent, it should be noted that the far south of the country is violent, as Muslim extremists terrorize the Buddhist population, police, and military. Attacks blamed on Muslim groups have moved north from the immediate border areas of Pattani, Narathiwat, and Yala provinces to Hat Yai in Songkhla Province, a major transit point in the south. Although these attacks were isolated incidents, they did target tourist areas and at least two foreign nationals were killed. Travel to the far south is generally discouraged, although train service to Butterworth in Malaysia is generally considered safe, as it stays west of the most troublesome provinces.

In more positive travel news, the shiny Suvarnabhumi International Airport, plagued by construction delays and cost overruns, finally opened in September 2006. (Warning: At press time, it was still undergoing repairs to some cracks in its runways and water leakage in its terminal building. For the time being, the old airport will temporarily reopen to handle some domestic, nonconnecting flights -- so make sure you know which airport you're flying in and out of.) The new airport is roughly 30km (8 miles) east of central Bangkok and in the future will be connected to the city's skytrain system by a high-speed rail link. If history is any guide, this link will most likely be completed some time after its scheduled completion date of October 2008. When this line is complete, the airport will only be a 15-minute ride from downtown, but for now, the options are bus, taxi, limo, rental car, or a layover in the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel (tel. 02131-1111), the only hotel serving the airport.

As for shiny new things in Bangkok, the JW Marriott (tel. 02656-7700), located in the heart of the busy Sukhumvit shopping area, is leading the way in in-room, high-tech convenience and is a new addition to this guide. Just across the street is the Majestic Grande (tel. 02262-2999), a classy midrange choice and one of the best values in the city. On the Chao Phraya, the Millennium Hilton (tel. 02442-2000) adds another name to the already prestigious list of luxury riverfront spots. Back in the city center, the massive Siam Paragon adds additional acres of shopping space to already crowded Siam Square, housing as well the world-class Siam Ocean World.

Pattaya expects to see even more business with the new airport just over an hour's drive away, and the Amari Orchid Resort & Tower (tel. 02255-3767) is hoping to cash in. By mid-2007, it will have added a five-star luxury wing to the current four-star property. Already completed is the hotel's posh new Mantra (tel. 03842-9591), one of the best new restaurants in the country. On the south end of the beach, the Sheraton Pattaya (tel. 03825-9888) is a new secluded getaway.

Further east, the islands of Koh Samet and Koh Chang, once solely the domain of backpackers, have new luxury resorts: the exclusive, all-villa Paradee (tel. 03864-4283) on Samet; and the Amari Emerald Cove (tel. 03955-2000), one of the chain's best, on Chang.

The most popular island destinations continue to be Koh Samui and Phuket, back to full speed after the 2004 tsunami. Both islands are slowly sinking from the weight of the resorts that have been built in recent years. Of these, a special nod goes to Sala Samui (tel. 07724-5888), a new honeymoon spot/love nest on Samui.

The beachfronts of Krabi, a nice alternative to busy Phuket, have also seen their fair share of construction, as both the Sofitel Phokeethara (tel. 07562-7800) and the Central Krabi Bay Resort (tel. 07563-7789) were opening their doors at the time of this writing (too close to press time to be reviewed in this edition).

Koh Phi Phi, thoroughly destroyed by the 2004 tsunami, is back to its old tricks and has added a truly unique boutique resort, Zeavola (tel. 07562-7024), that hearkens back to rural Thailand of the 1950s.

In Chiang Mai, The Chedi (tel. 05325-3333) is the new standard bearer for luxury in the northern capital. Also new to this edition is the trendsetting D2 Hotel (tel. 05399-9999), a surprisingly hip "lifestyle hotel" from the usually traditional Dusit hotel chain. A real find is the Baan Orapin (tel. 05324-3677), a family-run bed-and-breakfast that is a must for those looking for a break from large, impersonal hotels. It's highly recommended -- and not just because the owner and I attended the same college (Go Heels!).

In the far north near the once mysterious Golden Triangle, those with the means should look into the Four Seasons Tented Camp (tel. 05391-0200), a super-luxe, super-exclusive resort. Getting to the camp requires a Kurtzian ride up the Mekong; once there, you will be pampered and wined and dined between mahout (elephant riding) classes.

Laos

French military men in the early 19th century bemoaned the posting of disciplined officers to Laos, telling of how the languid pace and earthly delights spoiled the man and made mush out of good soldiers. Things haven't changed much; in fact, after a visit to Laos, it's hard to get back into the rat race.

Security for travelers is not an issue, but some reports over the last decade give pause. The main north-south highway, Route 13, has been free of insurgent activity for some time now, but public bus company employees still carry machine guns just in case, which can be seen as either reassuring or terrifying. The national carrier, once called Lao Aviation, has renamed itself Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com); it has acquired a number of new planes and flies new routes, offering better service and a stronger commitment to safety (though it still has yet to pass international safety standards).

Much of the recent foreign investment in Laos has gone towards improving the roads. Not long ago, roads outside of the major towns were unpaved and many were impassable during the rainy season. The highways are much improved now, but rural roads are still reserved for the hardy. One good way to get around in style is to book with Luang Say Cruises (tel. 071/252-553; www.asian-oasis.com), either for its northern trip from the Thai border to Luang Prabang -- with an overnight at its luxurious eco-lodge -- or on the luxury Vat Phou flagship in the far south. Diethelm Travel (tel. 021/213-833; www.diethelmtravel.com) is still the country's leader for deluxe classic tours.

Sadly, Vientiane, the capital, has its first official eyesore. The 14-story Don Chan Palace (tel. 021/244-288) opened in 2005 and has been successfully courting the Asian business community. The terrific new Green Park Boutique Hotel (tel. 021/263-063) also opened its doors in 2005, joining the Settha Palace as the most luxurious digs in the capital. For those in search of value for your money, look no further than the Vayakorn Guesthouse (tel. 021/241-911), a guesthouse in name (and price) only. In foodie news, Le Central (tel. 021/243-703) is another on the growing list of Vientiane's fine French restaurants, serving some of the best desserts in town.

Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage city of quaint French colonial buildings and stunning original temples along the Mekong, is the country's premier attraction. Many of the old colonials have been converted into stylish boutique hotels, with all renovations sticking to strict guidelines from UNESCO in hopes of retaining the town's history and charm. The Villa Santi Hotel (tel. 071/212-267) continues to set the standard, but newcomer Apsara (tel. 071/254-670), with loftlike open-plan rooms, and the newly expanded Les 3 Nagas (tel. 071/252-079), are both luxurious alternatives. The more affordable but no less stylish Sala Prabang (tel. 071/252-460) has also expanded, adding seven additional naturally styled rooms to its already prominent riverside presence. The Maison Souvannaphoum (tel. 071/254-609), once the residence of the former prime minister Prince Souvannaphouma, has recently reopened its doors as a Coulours of Angsana property and has quickly established itself as a top downtown choice.

Eco-tourism is still what brings many travelers to rural Laos, and the folks at Green Discovery (tel. 021/223-022; www.greendiscoverylaos.com) lead adventurous trips out into the back of beyond.

Vietnam

In the past few years, Vietnam has fashioned itself into a tourism powerhouse. Luxury and service have become the hallmarks of a country that was once on the map only for intrepid backpackers. The economy is thundering along, and in the service sector, this means choices upon choices. And while the very shape of Vietnam lends itself to linear travel, it won't be long before the country becomes a region-specific locale that visitors will want to visit time and again. Vietnam is now a member of the WTO, and in 2006 hosted a massive meeting of Asia-Pacific partners, with U.S. President George W. Bush in attendance. A certain pride is welling into the people along the old tourist trail, and Vietnam's war years are well behind it. Meanwhile, international investment continues to pour in, bringing with it international standards, styles, and sensibilities, and, while it was always evident in Saigon, the entire country has a bustling feeling that is infectious and a joy for today's traveler.

Despite its newfound place in Southeast Asia's tourism arena, Vietnam remains relatively cheap. Prices are rising in lodging from small guesthouses to luxury resorts, and in most restaurants. The increase is marginal, however, and service and quality remain high priorities. Leave the well-trod path, though, and you'll still find a seductive, sleepy Vietnam, where poised fruit sellers push bicycles through clattering streets, where old Chinese inscriptions line the walls, and where crowded public markets offer all the sights and sounds visitors have come to love and seek out in Vietnam. Plenty of discoveries await travelers, but, at the end of a day or a week of adventuring, comfort and good prices remain, right where you want them to be.

For evidence of real change, visit Hanoi. It's beginning to resemble Saigon, albeit less glitzy and glassy. But more and more cars are replacing motorcycles, and more motorcycles are replacing bicycles. An urgency has taken hold here in recent years, and Hanoi is emerging as a hip little capital, with a growing number of locals and expats involved in interesting affairs, from art to music and other entertainment. A good bet is the up-and-running Sheraton Hanoi (tel. 04/719-9000), whose appearance on a small lake away from the city center has sprouted a small street of boutiques and good eats, called Xuan Dieu Street (pronounced Shuan Zee-oh). New to the restaurant section of this edition is Vine (tel. 04/719-8001), where fine dining in a wonderfully conceived atmosphere is on offer.

Halong Bay seems to have enough natural beauty to absorb any influx thrown at it, and the mountains that jut from the crystal sea are as beckoning as ever. Now, though, it's even easier to get at some real adventure here, as many budget hotels offer excursions that include kayaking or nights spent on old junks. For luxury, go aboard Jewel of the Bay (tel. 04/828-0702; www.buffalotours.com) or the old French steamer Emeraude (tel. 04/934-0888; www.emeraude-cruises.com).

While you're in the north, don't miss a visit to Sapa, a once quiet, now bustling hive of activity for some of Vietnam's many hill tribes. As expected, all the development that's come to Sapa has taken away some of its quiet charm, but that only means you can get farther into neighboring areas with tours to other villages, valleys, and markets. Trek in the shadow of Fansipan, the region's highest mountain, and enjoy the cool air, or just wander Sapa, a gathering spot for the hill-tribe men and women, who are starting to combine traditional swaddling with the trappings of a globalized world -- hot-pink hats or knock-off sneakers, for example. Getting here by train and bus have become increasingly easy, and new to this edition is the Topas Eco-Lodge (tel. 020/872-404), possibly the most mesmerizing, peaceful locale in the country.

Colonial Hue offers visitors many chances to travel through Vietnam's varied past, from its time under Chinese rule to the American war. The hotel scene is not what it could be -- and is bound to get better -- but for now, there's the Hotel Saigon Morin (tel. 054/823-526) and the new, inspiring La Résidence Hôtel & Spa (tel. 054/837-475).

One of the best singular cities in Vietnam remains Hoi An, an ancient old town protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It can make for days of entertaining wanderings, but equally tempting are the southern tip of China Beach and its breaking waves. Between the old town and the sea lies a real look at modern Vietnam, from pho shops to river fishing boats; travel between the two by rented bicycle. In the old town, the Hoi An Cargo Club & Patisserie (tel. 0510/910-489) manages to retain the classic feel of a European street cafe -- it's an excellent place to sip coffee and contemplate the historic setting around you -- while at the Wan Lu noodle shop (tel. 0510/861-212), you'll feel like you've stepped back in time.

Nha Trang, once known as a party town on the backpackers' Southeast Asian circuit, has grown up into a bona fide beach destination; new to this edition is the Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara (tel. 058/522-222), an ultra-luxurious resort accessible only by boat, set among lush forests on a secluded beach at the edge of a mountain range.

To beat the heat, do what French colonialists did, and travel to the high plateau of Dalat, where you can stay in renovated villas from a time long gone at Evason Ana Mandara Villas & Spa (tel. 063/560-719; www.evasonhideaways.com), new to this edition. It's reasonably priced for the experience it offers. Or choose a traditional stay in the hotel that started it all, the Sofitel Dalat Palace (tel. 063/825-444), where a vintage Citroën tour of the town's old architecture is not to be missed.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) remains the country's business nexus and is busy as ever. Food, entertainment, shopping -- all things remain unrivaled in old Saigon, but some of the classic stays in the city have been re-done so many times they've lost their charm. Enter the newest downtown hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon (tel. 08/824-1234), which has managed to recapture what was lost, through brilliant design and attitude. That said, there's still nothing like a drink at the rooftop bar of the Rex Hotel (tel. 08/829-2185). Finally, an old favorite among Vietnamese, and new to this edition, is the Song Ngu (tel. 08/832-55017), where fabulous seafood with good prices can be found.

Cambodia

Cambodia remains a land of rugged mystery, a shadowy, war-ravaged country that has yet to turn the corner and is still developing. The ruling party in a coalition government, the CPP, has consolidated its grip on power, while a fractured royalist party is looking for its identity. Legislation remains shockingly slow, and exploitation of natural resources is still endemic. Corruption remains king, and the country has remained unable to come to grips with its past. A tribunal is underway for former leaders of the infamous Khmer Rouge, but the process has been bogged down in red tape and foot dragging. The country has yet to rise to its potential, and people living in rural areas are as poor as ever, but Cambodia isn't an uninteresting destination.

The good news, though, is that Siem Reap, the gateway city to the famed temples of Angkor, is outpacing the rest of the nation. Once a dusty, crumbling town travelers had to put up with in order to view the awe-inspiring temples, Siem Reap has blossomed into a place worthy of a visit. Great investments have been put into airports and roads, police seem on their best behavior, and an entire bar and restaurant area has matured around the Old Market, where you can still have cheap, wholesome food at a place like the Khmer Kitchen Restaurant (tel. 012/763-468), but where you can also eat ice-cream sundaes in an air-conditioned, nonsmoking cafe, the Blue Pumpkin (tel. 063/963-574), which makes excellent sandwiches to pack to the temples. On the hotel scene, the combination of whip-smart service, a community-minded philosophy, and attention to out-of-the-way temples makes the Amansara (tel. 063/760-333) an unrivaled host in Cambodia, and beyond. For a great stay at a moderate hotel, with a quiet environment and quaint pool, seek out the Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor (tel. 063/964-044).

In the next few years, the temple to see will be Ta Prohm, which was left much how the French found it: being swallowed by the jungle. Giant trees wrap their limbs around manmade stone, putting humanity in a perspective different from that of other temples. Development is underway, though, to reclaim this temple, to pull it back from the edge of the forest, and this will mean the loss of some of its magic. The time to go is now.

Phnom Penh, meanwhile, remains a fascinating capital in Southeast Asia. Not as dust-blown as it once was, Phnom Penh's growth is accelerating, and the word "sleepy" no longer applies here. More and more cars are choking the streets, and where once a visitor got around on the back of a motorcycle, he or she can now find a more placid ride in the chaos via tuk-tuk, a cushioned, shaded cart pulled behind a motorcycle. Rent one for a day and drive around the city, or see the important genocide sites, Tuol Sleng or Choeung Ek, which are grim reminders of Cambodia's past but really put the place into perspective. A less grisly attraction in Phnom Penh is the riverfront, along Sisowath Boulevard, which has sprouted numerous boutiquette hotels and fine restaurants in recent years. It's still a bit toutish, but solace can be found on a Mekong cruise, which costs as little as US$10 (£5.50) an hour. Stay in a hotel overlooking the river and you'll be blessed every morning with a spectacular sunrise.

New to this edition is a brief introduction to the small beach town of Kep, one of the country's best-kept secrets. In the past, a rough road and hard ride to the "Cambodian Riviera" kept many away, but the road is better now and a bus service brings passengers to Kep's doorstep. The beach is placid, if a little rustic, but numerous activities are available -- from day trips to tropical islands to motorcycle rides through jungly mountains. These, combined with several quality places to stay -- like the Knai Bang Chatt (tel. 012/879-486) and the Veranda Natural Resort (tel. 012/888-619) -- make Kep an imperative destination for anyone interested in seeing Cambodia beyond its ancient temples or shadowy capital.

Singapore

After 2006, Singapore's tourism industry will never be the same again. The government's approval for two casinos marks the end of an era for the squeaky-clean city-state.

The first casino will be built by Las Vegas Sands, which is investing S$5 billion (US$3.16 billion/£1.6 billion) to create a casino in Singapore's downtown area, just across the marina from the financial district and downtown convention center. With an eye on the meetings, incentives, convention, and exhibits (MICE) travel segment, the huge complex will also feature 110,000 sq. m (1,184,040 sq. ft.) of meeting space, two 2,000-seat theaters, three hotel towers, an ArtScience Museum, luxury retail outlets, dining venues in floating pavilions on the bay, plus innovative public spaces that include a rooftop park with a 360-degree city view, an ice-skating rink, and indoor canals.

The second casino is being developed by Genting International and Star Cruises, which will invest S$5.2 billion (US$3.3 billion/£1.65 billion) to build an enormous facility on Sentosa Island. Geared towards family and leisure activities, the casino will be supported by spa-resort accommodations, restaurants and bars, plus retail and entertainment outlets. Perhaps the most exciting part of the package will be the addition of Universal Studios Singapore, promised to be Asia's largest, with 22 attractions in themed "worlds," including "Journey to Madagascar," and a DreamWorks Digital Animation Studio. Also in the works is the Quest Marine Life Park, with the largest single marine tank in the world and an interactive dolphin habitat. The Equarius Water Park will feature water rides and a maritime museum. Three amphitheaters will host international entertainment, including a resident show from the creators of Cirque du Soleil.

While the estimated completion date for these projects is 2010, super-efficient Singapore may have everything up and running much sooner than that.

In the future, also look to Singapore Airlines to be the first airline to use the massive Airbus 380 for commercial passenger flights. These double-decker jets have 49% more floor space than Boeing's 747, but incorporate only 35% more seats, allowing room for fun extras like bars, gyms, and duty-free shops. The mammoth plane will be rolled out in 2007 for the "kangaroo route" between Sydney, Singapore, and London.

Malaysia

In 2007, Malaysia celebrates 50 years of independence, and the tourism board has a host of activities for travelers -- from music festivals to international sporting events and big nationwide sales -- that will showcase the country to the world. August will be the most exciting month, with a week-long international fireworks competition and a lion dance exhibition leading up to Malaysia's Independence Day celebrations on August 31, with parades, outdoor fairs, concerts, and fireworks. Also in 2007, the Eye on Malaysia, a 60m (197-ft.) Ferris wheel with views over Kuala Lumpur, will open in its Lake Gardens location.

Malaysia's budget carrier AirAsia, which offers some of the cheapest airfares around the country and the region, is teaming up with Virgin Atlantic and EasyJet to introduce the world's first low-cost long-haul flights. Starting in July 2007, the airline is planning to offer trips between KL and London for as low as half the price you'd pay on a normal carrier. The deal will also give AirAsia's partners access to Kuala Lumpur International Airport, creating a nice Asian hub for their operations as well. AirAsia also plans to offer RM100 (US$28/£14) flights to China. The move will pave the way for Malaysia's KLIA to become a coveted gateway for budget flights from around the world into Southeast Asia and within the Asia Pacific region.

Bali

Tourism is once again on the rebound after terrorists struck Bali for the second time, in October 2005. Sadly, the more remote areas of Bali -- the safest places to visit -- have felt the greatest impact due to the drop in tourism. Security has tightened, with the addition of bomb-sniffing dogs at many resorts and in downtown areas, and hotels have slashed prices -- you can get a private villa with a plunge pool for less than $200 per night these days. Bali's outstanding service, beautiful landscape, and deluxe hotels at reasonable prices still make it a very appealing place to visit.

A top area full of world-class restaurants and deluxe hotels near -- but not in -- the action in downtown Kuta is Seminyak. New to this edition is the Sofitel Seminyak Bali (tel. 361/730730), formerly the Royal Seminyak. The outstanding two-story private villas have undergone renovations and are now some of the best beachside villas in Seminyak; bargain hard. Staying in this area also puts you near the clubbing scene; check out the most happening nightclub, Hu'u Bar (tel. 361/736443), located on the beach just south of Seminyak.

In the island's south is picturesque Jimbaran Bay. You'll find great amenities here at the Ritz-Carlton Bali (tel. 361/702222), which boasts one of the best pools on the island -- an infinity pool built in a cliffside just above a beautiful beach with crashing waves. The outstanding spa recently added an Aquatonic therapy pool, a huge Jacuzzi with currents and jets that give you a workout and a massage. Try the Ritz's new Dava restaurant, which features pan-Asian delights.

Also in southern Bali, the resort area of Nusa Dua is home to several outstanding properties, including the very private Balé (tel. 361/775111) and Kayumanis (tel. 361/770777), both of which have a strict no-child policy for extra peace and quiet. Conversely, if you are bringing the kids, check out Ayodya Resort Bali (tel. 361/771102). A great value in the south is Rumah Bali (tel. 361/771256), a bed-and-breakfast resort that features the island's best cooking school, Bumbu Bali (tel. 361/774502). The school also serves tasty food, or you can check out Tao (tel. 361/772902), a new fusion restaurant with a beachside pool nearby.

In the rice paddies of Ubud is possibly the best new resort in all of Bali: the Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah (tel. 361/975685), with private butler service, a private plunge pool, a huge outdoor tub, and plenty of complimentary bonuses like a free minibar, afternoon tea, and breakfast in bed. Also check out Ubud Hanging Garden (tel. 361/982700), a resort built on the side of a steep gorge.

In Bali's north, the village of Pemuteran is a great base for diving and snorkeling trips to the nearby island of Menjangan. Try Reef Seen Aquatics (tel. 362/92339; www.reefseen.com) for snorkeling, diving, and basic but nicely appointed rooms for around US$40 (£22). The best of Pemuteran's resorts is the Matahari Beach Resort & Spa (tel. 362/92312).