Introduction to Southern Thailand

Thailand's slim peninsula extends 1,250km (775 miles) south from Bangkok to the Malaysian border at Sungai Kolok. The towns of Cha-Am and the royal retreat of Hua Hin are just a short hop south of Bangkok, and the ancient temples of Phetchaburi -- the last outpost of the Khmer Empire -- are a good day trip from there. Passing through coastal towns like Prachuap Kiri Khan and Chumphon and heading farther south, you come to Surat Thani, the jumping-off point for islands in the east: Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, and Koh Tao. If the beach resorts of Phuket dominate the tourist landscape on the west coast, Koh Samui, a heavily developed resort island in the Gulf of Siam, dominates the east. Nearby Koh Pha Ngan, famed for its wild full-moon parties, continues to gain prominence as a rustic resort destination, as does Koh Tao for its access to some of Thailand's best dive sites.

With its fine islands and beaches, the Gulf of Siam is truly Thai paradise. Whether you come armed with little money and lots of time, or lots of money and little time, there's an adventure and a little bit of heaven for everyone among its palm-draped beaches, lacy coral reefs, small mainland towns and fishing villages, and Buddhist retreats.

The island of Phuket, linked by a causeway to peninsular Thailand, was one of Thailand's first tourist developments. Today, it's a perennially popular mass tourism magnet. In the dry season (Nov-Mar), this coast is a great place to island-hop, either by the new Destination Air's amphibious aircraft service or by ferry.

With its increasing wealth and popularity come less savory influences, however: Mafia activity and unscrupulous developers keen to earn a fast buck from the pristine environment are common, especially as resort centers like Patong in Phuket continue to rebuild after damage caused by a tsunami in December of 2004.

The province of Krabi has been a bit more eco-savvy than bolder, brassier Phuket and has long banned beach activities like jet skis and parasailing, making it popular with crowds looking for nature, not nightlife. The province encompasses all the land east of Phang Nga Bay, including Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta. Close to Krabi town, Ao Nang Beach and Railay offer backdrops of dramatic limestone cliffs, powder soft beaches, and high-end resorts. Koh Phi Phi is still a popular venue for snorkeling and dive trips despite the tsunami damage; however, the island's National Park designation (theoretically, meant to preserve its outstanding beauty) has been shamefully ignored. Koh Lanta Yai, better known as Koh Lanta, lies southeast of Krabi Town. Once home solely to Muslim fishing villages, it now boasts the whole gamut of resorts from budget to super-luxe.

Right at the southernmost tip of Phuket is the idyllic isle of Koh Racha (sometimes called Koh Raja or Raya) with its jade-green seas. Northwards is Phang Nga province and, on its west coast, Khao Lak, the gateway to popular dive spots around the Similan and Surin Islands. This coastline was worst hit by the tsunami in 2004 but volunteer groups such as ETC are doing much to alleviate the pain and reskill the unemployed. To the south, Trang Province's white sand beaches, caves, and waterfalls make it one of Thailand's best kept secrets.

During high season (Nov-Apr), bookings for all West coast resorts should be made well in advance; expect hefty surcharges across the Christmas/New Year weeks. This season is great for all watersports. Many hotels offer discounts in the off-season when heavy rains bring very strong winds and rough seas (the latter being blamed for fatal air crashes that occurred in Phuket in 2007). Swimming becomes dangerous then, with heavy surf and a strong undertow. Islands in the eastern Gulf of Thailand (Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, and Koh Tao) are more sheltered, and off-season discounts and fewer crowds make this region most appealing at off-season.