Active Pursuits

Bicycling -- For complete 1- or 2-week cycling holidays in the Southeast, contact Don Smith at Celtic Cycling, Lorum Old Rectory, Bagenalstown, County Carlow (tel./fax 059/977-5282).

Bird-Watching -- As many as 15 species of Irish water birds -- including mute swans, coots, gadwalls, and gray herons -- can be seen at the Marlfield Lake Wildfowl Refuge, several miles west of Clonmel in Marlfield. On your way, you will pass signposts for St. Patrick's Well, less than a mile away, a tranquil spot with an effervescent pool of reputedly healing crystalline water. In the middle of the pool rises an ancient Celtic cross. The legend that Patrick visited here seems more solidly rooted than most such claims.

Fishing -- The River Suir, from Carrick-on-Suir to Thurles, was once one of the finest salmon rivers in Europe, but recent excessive trawling at its mouth has threatened its stock. It's still a decent salmon river, especially in the February run and from June to September. Trout (brown and rainbow) are in abundance here in the summer. Here you'll find some of the least expensive game fishing in Ireland; single weekday permits cost €20 to €32 ($26-$42) for salmon, €7 ($9.10) for trout. They are available from Kavanagh Sports, Westgate, Clonmel, County Tipperary (tel./fax 052/21279), as is everything else you'll need. Manager Declan Byrne can outfit you with all of the essentials and more. To orient yourself and to consider your options, pick up a copy of Angling on the Suir, a helpful pamphlet put out by the Tourist Office. The River Nore and the nearby River Barrow are also known for good salmon and trout fishing.

For sea fishing, picturesque Dunmore East, 13km (8 miles) south of Waterford, is a good bet. Contact John O'Connor (tel. 051/383397) to charter a boat for reef, wreck, and shark fishing. Boat charter rates are around €400 ($520) per day.

Horseback Riding -- For trekking and trail riding on the slopes of the Comeragh Mountains, you can't do better than Melodys Nire Valley Equestrian Centre, Nire View, Ballycarbry, Clonmel (tel. 052/36147).

Swimming -- If you're staying in the area, you're welcome to swim at the Clonmel Civic Swimming Pool (tel. 052/21972), near the Market Place, which also has a handy gym and sauna. It's open Monday to Friday 9am to 9:45pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 7:45pm. Call for specific public swimming hours.

Tennis -- The courts of the Hillview Sports Club, Mountain Road, Clonmel (tel. 052/21805), may be used by visitors.

Walking -- R668 between Clogheen and Lismore is a scenic stretch of road, and some great walks begin at the Vee Gap, a dramatic notch in the Knockmealdown Mountains. About 2km (1 1/4 miles) north of R669 and R668, you reach the highest point in the gap; there is a parking lot, as well as a dirt road continuing down to a lake nestled into the slope below. This is Bay Lough, and the dirt road used to be the main thoroughfare over the gap; it now offers a fine walk to the shores of the lake, with outstanding views of the valley to the north. For a panoramic perspective of the region, start walking due east from the gap parking lot to the summit of Sugarloaf Hill; the hike is extremely steep, but well worth the effort -- the views from the ridge are superb.

In the Clonmel area, there are excellent river and hill walks, some more challenging than others. The most spectacular is the ascent of famed Slievenamon, a mountain rich in myth. Inexpensive, detailed trail maps for at least a half-dozen walks are available at the Clonmel Tourist Office on Sarsfield Street, Clonmel. Also available is a free leaflet guide to the birds, butterflies, and flora of nearby Wilderness Gorge.

The Galtee Mountains, northwest of the Knockmealdowns, offer some great long and short walks. One beautiful route on a well-defined trail is the circuit of Lake Muskry, on the north side of the range. To get there, take R663 west out of Bansha, and follow signs for the town of Rossadrehid. To get to the trail, ask for directions in Rossadrehid; there are several turns, and the landmarks change frequently because of logging. The trail leads you up a glaciated valley to the base of a ring of cliffs where the crystalline waters of Lake Muskry lie; from here you can walk around the lake, take in the tremendous views of the valley, and return the way you came. Walking time to the lake and back is 3 hours.

Another option on this walk is to continue up past the lake to the top of the ridge, and from there along the ridge top to Galtymore, a prominent dome-shaped peak about 5km (3 miles) west of Lake Muskry. It is a beautiful but extremely demanding walk, about 6 hours to Galtymore and back. This is only one of many extraordinary walks in the Glen of Aherlow. Trail maps and all the information and assistance you need are available at the Glen of Aherlow Fáilte Society, Coach Road, Newtown (tel. 062/56331). It's open daily June to October from 9:30am to 6pm.