Clonmel, the capital of Tipperary, is the unassuming gateway to the region. A working town, as yet unspoiled by massive tourism, Clonmel (whose delightful name in Gaelic, Cluaín Meala, means "Meadows of Honey") makes a strategic, pleasant base in the Southeast. Looking at the pretty rural town, poised on the banks of the Suir, it's hard to believe that it once withstood a Cromwellian siege for 3 brutal months.
Whether you're staying in Clonmel or just passing through, several scenic drives converge here: the Comeragh or Nire Valley Drive deep into the Comeragh Mountains, which rise from the south banks of the Suir; the Knockmealdown Drive, through the historic village of Ardfinnan and the Vee ; and the Suir Scenic Drive. All are signposted from Clonmel.
North of Clonmel and deep in the Tipperary countryside, Cashel, with its Rock of Cashel and cluster of monastic buildings in a dramatic setting, is not to be missed. Because it's on the main N8 road, most people pass through en route from Dublin to Cork. If your travels don't take you to Cashel, a side trip from Waterford is worth the drive. In particular, two scenic routes are well worth a detour:
At Cahir, head north through the Galtee Mountains, Ireland's highest inland mountain range, to the Glen of Aherlow. The pristine 11km (7-mile) Glen of Aherlow is a secluded and scenic pass between the plains of counties Tipperary and Limerick.
If you're driving south into Waterford, you might want to travel via the "Vee." This 18km-long (11-mile) road winds through the Knockmealdown Mountains from Clogheen to Lismore and Cappoquin in County Waterford. It's a dramatic drive, which peaks at the Tipperary-Waterford border, where the two slopes of the pass converge to frame the patchwork fields of the Galtee Valley far below. At this point, numerous walking trails lead to the nearby peaks and down to the mountain lake of Petticoat Loose -- named after a, shall we say, lady of flexible morals. A more edifying local character was Samuel Grubb, of Castle Grace, who so loved these slopes that he left instructions to be buried upright overlooking them. And so he was. The rounded stone cairn you might notice off the road between Clogheen and the Vee is where he stands in place, entombed, facing the Golden Vale of Tipperary.
