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Tucked between the Pacific and Lago de Nicaragua is a thin sliver of land that connects two huge continents. The Rivas Isthmus is only 19km (12 miles) wide in some parts and is bordered by Costa Rica to the south. Its western shore is a long string of undeveloped beaches increasingly famous for their surf breaks and deep-sea fishing. Here, you'll find the beach town of San Juan del Sur, which competes with Granada for the foreign dollar, be it from the fun seeker or the property hunter. This once-sleepy fishing village has been transformed into the country's main seaside destination and is a magnet for American retirees. It is also the jumping-off point to explore the many beaches north and south, some with amazing turtle-nesting sites. The dark waves of Lago de Nicaragua lap the eastern shore. In the distance, the majestic island of Ometepe stands in the glittering waters. Its twin volcanic peaks, one of which can explode at any moment, dominate the skyline. This rural backwater offers dark beaches to kayak around, coffee farms to explore, and rock paintings to discover, making it a unique place in a very unique region.