Regions in Brief

Port aux Basques

Port aux Basques is a major gateway for travelers arriving in Newfoundland, with ferries connecting the town to Nova Scotia year-round. It's a good way station for those arriving late on a ferry or departing early in the morning; otherwise, it can comfortably be viewed in a couple of hours while either coming or going, or even skipped over altogether en route to much greater scenic treasures.

This appealing harborside village is situated on treeless emerald hills that define the terrain around the harbor. Downtown consists of bright boxy homes set on the hills around a compact commercial zone. A narrow boardwalk snakes along the water's edge and links the ferry terminal with the town; it's worth a walk if you've got an hour to kill, especially at sunset, which brings out the contours of the surrounding hills. At the edge of town are a tiny mall and newer residential neighborhoods. The town also has a one-screen movie theater and a few family-style restaurants.

Getting There -- Port aux Basques is commonly reached via ferry from Nova Scotia. The Trans-Canada Highway (Rte. 1) links the major communities of southwestern Canada. Port aux Basques is 874km (543 miles) from St. John's via the Trans-Canada Highway.

Visitor Information -- In Port aux Basques, the Provincial Interpretation and Information Centre (tel. 709/695-2262) is located on the Trans-Canada Highway about 3km (2 miles) from the ferry terminal. You can't miss it: It's the modern, ecclesiastical-looking building on the right. Inside are displays to orient you to the island's regions and racks aflutter with great forests of brochures. It's open from mid-May to the middle of October daily from 6am to 11pm.

Corner Brook

Corner Brook is Newfoundland's second-largest city. Like St. John's, it's also dramatically sited -- in this case, on the banks of the glimmering Humber River, which winds down through verdant mountains from beyond Deer Lake, then turns the corner to flow into Humber Arm. The hills on the south shore of the Humber are nearly as tall as those in Gros Morne National Park, making a great backdrop for the town, which has gradually expanded up the shoulders of the hills.

This is a young city with a long history. The area was first explored and charted in 1767 by Capt. James Cook, who spent 23 days mapping the islands at the mouth of the bay. But it wasn't until early in the 20th century that the city started to take its present shape. Copper mines and the railroad brought in workers; the paper mill, which still dominates downtown, was constructed in the early 1920s. By 1945 it was the largest paper mill in the world.

The city has grown beyond its stature as a mill town and has a more vibrant feel than other spots anchored by heavy industry. This is no doubt aided in large part by the energy from two institutions of higher learning: Sir Wilfred Grenfell College of Memorial University of Newfoundland and the College of the North Atlantic. You'll also find well-developed services and suppliers, including grocery stores, banks, hotels, and restaurants. This is your last chance to stock up and indulge if you're headed to Gros Morne -- from here on out, you'll be dependent on small grocery stores and mom-and-pop restaurants.

Getting There -- Corner Brook is on the Trans-Canada Highway 217km (135 miles) north of Port aux Basque. Air access is via Deer Lake Regional Airport (tel. 709/635-3601; www.deerlakeairport.com), call sign "YDF," with incoming flights from Provincial, Air Labrador, WestJet, and Air Canada.

Visitor Information -- Corner Brook maintains a tourism information kiosk just off the Trans-Canada Highway, uphill at the intersection of West Valley Road and Confederation Drive (near the Mamateek Inn). It's usually open daily from mid-June to September, and on weekdays during spring and fall. Check the city's very good tourism website, www.cornerbrook.com, before coming.

Deer Lake

Deer Lake is an unassuming crossroads town near the head of the Humber River where travelers coming from the south either continue on the Trans-Canada Highway toward St. John's or veer northwest to Gros Morne National Park, some 69km (43 miles) distant. Deer Lake is the gateway for those coming by air directly to western Newfoundland. There's little to detain a visitor here; it's a good spot to buy gas, peruse the brochures at the provincial information center, and then push on.

Deer Lake is located 48km (30 miles) north of Corner Brook on the Trans-Canada Highway. Deer Lake Regional Airport (tel. 709/635-3601; www.deerlakeairport.com) is the air hub for western Newfoundland, with scheduled flights both within the island and to Halifax on several different airlines. Car rentals are available from the terminal.