Getting Around

By Car

A car offers the greatest flexibility while you're touring, even if you're just doing day trips from Madrid. Don't, however, plan to drive in Madrid or Barcelona for city sightseeing; they are both too congested. Theoretically, rush hour is Monday through Saturday from 8 to 10am, 1 to 2pm, and 4 to 6pm. In reality, though, it's all the time.

Rentals -- Many of North America's biggest car-rental companies, including Avis, Budget, and Hertz, maintain offices throughout Spain. Although several Spanish car-rental companies exist, we've received lots of letters from readers of previous editions telling us they've had hard times resolving billing irregularities and insurance claims, so you might want to stick with the U.S.-based rental firms.

Note that tax on car rentals is a whopping 15%, so don't forget to factor that into your travel budget. Usually, prepaid rates do not include taxes, which will be collected at the rental kiosk itself. Be sure to ask explicitly what's included when you're quoted a rate.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com) maintains about 100 branches throughout Spain, including about a dozen in Madrid, eight in Barcelona, a half dozen in Seville, and four in Murcia. If you reserve and pay for your rental by telephone at least 2 weeks before your departure from North America, you'll qualify for the company's best rate, with unlimited kilometers included. You can usually get competitive rates from Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com) and Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com); it always pays to comparison shop. Budget doesn't have a drop-off charge if you pick up a car in one Spanish city and return it to another. All three companies require that drivers be at least 21 years of age and, in some cases, not older than 72. To be able to rent a car, you must have a passport and a valid driver's license; you must also have a valid credit card or a prepaid voucher. An international driver's license is not essential, but you might want to present it if you have one; it's available from any North American office of the American Automobile Association (AAA).

Two other agencies of note include Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) and Auto Europe (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com).

Internet resources can make comparison shopping easier. Expedia.com (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) help you compare prices and locate car-rental bargains from various companies nationwide. They will even make your reservation for you once you've found the best deal.

Driving Rules -- Spaniards drive on the right side of the road. Drivers should pass on the left; local drivers sound their horns when passing another car and flash their lights at you if you're driving slowly (slowly for high-speed Spain) in the left lane. Autos coming from the right have the right-of-way.

Spain's express highways are known as autopistas, which charge a toll, and autovías, which don't. To exit in Spain, follow the SALIDA (exit) sign, except in Catalonia, where the exit sign says SORTIDA. On most express highways, the speed limit is 120kmph (75 mph). On other roads, speed limits range from 90kmph (56 mph) to 100kmph (62 mph). You will see many drivers far exceeding these limits.

The greatest number of accidents in Spain are recorded along the notorious Costa del Sol highway, Carretera de Cádiz.

If you must drive through a Spanish city, try to avoid morning and evening rush hours. Never park your car facing oncoming traffic, which is against the law. If you are fined by the highway patrol (Guardia Civil de Tráfico), you must pay on the spot. Penalties for drinking and driving are very stiff.

Breakdowns -- These can be a serious problem. If you're driving a Spanish-made vehicle that needs parts, you'll probably be able to find them. But if you are driving a foreign-made vehicle, you may be stranded. Have the car checked before setting out on a long trek through Spain. On a major motorway you'll find strategically placed emergency phone boxes. On secondary roads, call for help by asking the operator to locate the nearest Guardia Civil, which will put you in touch with a garage that can tow you to a repair shop.

As noted above, the Spanish affiliate of AAA can provide limited assistance in the event of a breakdown.

By Plane

By European standards, domestic flights within Spain are relatively inexpensive, and considering the vast distances within the country, flying between distant points sometimes makes sense. For reservations on the national airline, Iberia, call tel. 800/772-4642.

If you plan to travel to a number of cities and regions, Iberia's "Visit Spain" Air Pass can be a good deal. Sold only in conjunction with a transatlantic ticket and valid for any airport within Spain and the Canary or Balearic Islands, it requires that you choose up to four different cities in advance, in the order you'll visit them. Restrictions forbid flying immediately back to the city of departure, instead encouraging far-flung visits to widely scattered regions of the peninsula. Only one change within the pre-set itinerary is permitted once the ticket is issued. The dates and departure times of the actual flights, however, can be determined or changed without penalty once you arrive in Spain. The actual costs depend on what kind of ticket you are issued -- consult the folks at Iberia if you're interested in a multi-stopover ticket and see what the best deal is at the time of your visit. Children under 2 travel for 10% of the adult fare, and children 2 to 11 travel for 50% of the adult fare. The ticket is valid for up to 60 days after your initial transatlantic arrival in Spain.

By Train

Spain is crisscrossed with a comprehensive network of rail lines. Hundreds of trains depart every day for points around the country, including the fast TALGO and the newer, faster AVE trains, which reduced rail time between Madrid and Seville to only 2 1/2 hours.

If you plan to travel a great deal on the European railroads, it's worth buying a copy of the Thomas Cook Timetable of European Passenger Railroads. It's available exclusively online at www.thomascookpublishing.com.

The most economical way to travel in Spain is on Spanish State Railways (RENFE), the national railway of Spain. Most main long-distance connections are served with night express trains having first- and second-class seats as well as beds and bunks. There are also comfortable high-speed daytime trains of the TALGO, TER, and Electrotren types. You pay a general fare for these trains; bunks, beds, and certain superior-quality trains cost extra. Nevertheless, the Spanish railway is one of the most economical in Europe; in most cases, this is the best way to go.

Spanish Rail Passes -- RENFE, the national railway of Spain, offers several discounted rail passes. You must buy these passes in the United States prior to your departure. For more information, consult a travel agent or Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL; www.raileurope.com).

The Eurail Spain Pass is good for unlimited travel on Spain's national rail network. Passes are available from any 3 to 10 days within a 2-month period. Prices start at $238 for first class, plus $38 for each additional day. Second class starts at $186 with additional days costing $31. (Children 4-11 pay half fare on any of these discount passes.)

The Eurail Spain-Portugal Pass, good for both Spain and Portugal, offers 3 to 10 days unlimited first-class train travel in a 2-month period. Prices start at $272; add $38 for each additional day. Eurail Spain 'n Portugal Saverpass, again including both Spain and Portugal, offers any 3 to 10 days unlimited, first-class train travel in a 2-month period starting at $243, and $31 for each additional day.

The Eurail France-Spain Pass, good for both Spain and France, offers 4 to 10 days unlimited train travel in a 2-month period. First-class prices start at $331, plus $38 for each additional day, while second-class rates are $288, plus $33 per extra day.

A Spain Rail 'n Drive Pass offers any 3 to 5 days of unlimited first class train travel, within a 2-month span, starting from $355 for a standard economy car. Additional rail days cost $44, and additional car rental days, $40.

Eurailpasses -- In-the-know travelers take advantage of one of Europe's greatest travel bargains: the Eurailpass, which permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are sold only in North America and are nontransferable.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 18 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $635 for 15 days, $829 for 21 days, $1,025 for 1 month, $1,449 for 2 months, and $1,789 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first class travel in 18 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $539 for 5 days, $699 for 21 days, $869 for 1 month, $1,229 for 2 months, and $1,519 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $415 for 15 days, $539 for 21 days, $669 for 1 month, $945 for 2 months, and $1,165 for 3 months.

Eurail Selectpass: The pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any 3, 4, or 5 bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months you pay $405 for three countries.

Where to Buy Rail Passes -- Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL; www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY (tel. 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers under 26 years of age; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

By Bus

Bus service in Spain is extensive, low priced, and comfortable enough for short distances. You'll rarely encounter a bus terminal in Spain. The station might be a cafe, a bar, the street in front of a hotel, or simply a spot at an intersection.

A bus may be the cheapest mode of transportation, but it's not really the best option for distances of more than 161km (100 miles). On long hauls, buses are often uncomfortable. Another major drawback might be a lack of toilet facilities, although rest stops are frequent. It's best for 1-day excursions outside a major tourist center such as Madrid. In the rural areas of the country, bus networks are more extensive than the railway system; they go virtually everywhere, connecting every village. In general, a bus ride between two major cities in Spain, such as from Córdoba to Seville or Madrid to Barcelona, is about two-thirds the price of a train ride and a few hours faster.