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No food is sold anywhere in the 240km (149-mile) stretch between Hrauneyjar and Goðafoss.

Hrauneyjar may be the last outpost at the desert frontier, but for travelers with 4WD vehicles, it's also a centralized base for exploring Þjórsárdalur, Hekla, Landmannalaugar, and Veiðivötn. Hrauneyjar's two hotels, run by the same management, are 1.4km (1 mile) apart, and each has its own restaurant .

The Nýidalur mountain huts (tel. 854-1194; 3,000kr/$48/£24 sleeping-bag accommodation; MC, V; July-Aug), sleep 120 people and are operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (tel. 568-2533; www.fi.is). Advance bookings can be made online, but walk-ins are usually accommodated. Showers cost an additional 300kr ($4.80/£2.40), and the kitchen has pots and pans but no utensils. All food must be brought in. Come prepared to sleep in a packed room with 30 other travelers, or in bunks that look like singles but are meant for two.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.