You'll find the best shopping along pedestrian rue Gambetta and around the Eglise St-Jean-de-Luz. There you can find anything from clothes and leather handbags to books and chocolates to dishes and linens.
You can also ramble around the port, sip pastis in a harborfront cafe, and debate the virtues of the beret. Then scout out Maison Adam, 6 place Louis-XIV (tel. 05-59-26-03-54), which has sold almond-based confections from this boutique since 1660. Specialties include sugared macaroons, tourons (almond-paste candies flavored with everything from chocolate to confit of berries), and canougat (soft caramels). The boutique is closed mid-January to mid-February and for 3 weeks in November.
A final star in a town loaded with culinary stars is Confiserie Pariès, 9 rue Gambetta (tel. 05-59-26-01-46). Well known for its chocolates and its pastries, it's especially famous for its canougat, a soft and easily chewable caramel that literally melts, with explosions of flavor, in your mouth.