Walk along the ramparts for the best view of the bay and the islets at the mouth of the Rance. These walls were built over several centuries; some date from the 14th century. They were reconstructed in the 17th century and restored in the 19th. You can begin at the 15th-century Porte St-Vincent.
At the harbor, you can book tours of the Channel Islands. Car ferries, leaving for the English island of Jersey, from March to October, are operated by Condor (tel. 08-25-13-51-35; www.condorferries.com). The round-trip fare for a pedestrian without a car from St-Malo is 55€ ($80).
At low tide, a 15-minute stroll leads to the Ile du Grand-Bé, the site of the tomb of Chateaubriand, who was born in St-Malo, "deserted by others and completely surrounded by storms." The tomb, marked by a cross, is simple, unlike the man it honors, but the view of the Emerald Coast makes up for it.
The "Bastille of the West," the Château de St-Malo, Porte St-Vincent (tel. 02-99-40-71-57), and its towers shelter the Musée de l'Histoire de St-Malo (tel. 02-99-40-71-57). It abounds with insights into the role of St-Malo, as well as souvenirs of the pirates Duguay-Trouin and Surcouf, the most famous of the privateers. Admission costs 5.20€ ($7.60) for adults and 2.60€ ($3.80) for students and children 17 and under. It's open April through October daily 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm, November through March Tuesday to Sunday 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm.
After you visit the château, try to carve out some time for wandering through the narrow streets and alleyways of St-Malo's historic core. Memories of the town's origins as a medieval fishing village confront you at nearly every turn.
St-Malo's Cathédrale St-Vincent, 12 rue St-Benoît (tel. 02-99-40-82-31), is known for its 1,160-nave vault. It's of the Angevin or Plantagenet style, elegantly marking the transition between Romanesque and Gothic. The cathedral also has a Renaissance facade (the west), with additions from the 18th century and a 15th-century tower. The 14th-century choir is surmounted by a triforium with trefoiled arches and flanked by chapels. Admission is free, and it's open June through August Monday to Saturday 9:45am to 7pm, Sunday 9:30am to 6pm (Sept-May closed noon-2pm).
