Driving Tours

En Route to Stellenbosch from Cape Town

Vergenoegd opened the doors of its old Cape Dutch homestead to the public at the end of 2003 -- great news for red-wine lovers; in fact, the combination of superbly smooth red wines and the gorgeous setting make this quite possibly my favorite estate in the Winelands, so don't miss it (tel. 021/843-3248; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9:30am-1:30pm).

Vergelegen (tel. 021/847-1334; daily 9:30am-4pm; call for tour times) is the other must-see estate on the Somerset West or "Helderberg" Wine Route, which lies a few miles from Stellenbosch. Vergelegen (Far Location) was built by reprobate Willem Adriaan van der Stel, who took over from his father as governor of the Cape in 1699, only to abuse his power by building Vergelegen on land that did not actually belong to him and using Dutch East India Company slaves and resources to compete with local farmers. He was sacked in 1707 and the farm was demolished and divided. Today this beautifully restored wine estate, surrounded by gorgeous gardens, is known to be Mandela's favorite, as well as the only one to host Queen Elizabeth II and the Clintons during their respective state visits. The estate restaurant, the Lady Phillips (tel. 021/847-1346), serves excellent meals in a wonderful atmosphere; in summer the Rose Terrace, an alfresco venue, is the place to sample a glass of estate wine with a sandwich or quiche. There is a R10 ($1/70p) entry fee; cellar tours are a further R10 ($1/70p); wine tasting (Mon-Sat) from R5 (70¢/35p).

To get to Stellenbosch from here (some 20 min. away), head back to the R44 and turn right (at the Lord Charles Hotel). Red-wine lovers should look out for the sign to Rust en Vrede (Rest and Peace) along the way -- turn right onto Annandale Road to sample these raunchy reds (tel. 021/881-3881; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8:30am-4pm in season). Families should turn left and head for Spier (tel. 021/809-1100; daily 9am-5pm; you can assemble your own picnic at their deli). Among the many activities on offer at Spier are scenic horseback rides through the estate's vineyards, as well as an outdoor activity center; their Cheetah Conservancy, where you can see these slinky creatures up close, is also very popular. A little farther along the R44 is the turnoff for Blaauwklippen (tel. 021/880-0133; Mon-Fri 9am-4:45pm, Sat 9am-4pm), where from October 1 to April 30 you can take a coach ride through the vineyards (call ahead to book); also look for the delightful Waterford -- a wonderful example of the Cape's love affair with Tuscany (tel. 021/880-0496).

The Stellenbosch Wine Route

This is the most established route, with well over 100 estates and farms to choose from, almost all of which are reached via the three major roads radiating from the town center. Note that it's worth double-checking opening times if you're traveling over the weekend. If you head southwest on the R306, you should consider visiting the 300-year-old Neethlingshof (tel. 021/883-8988; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm; Aug-Jan hours are extended) just for the pleasure of driving up its gracious pine-lined avenue and tasting their Noble Late Harvest -- once there, however, you may find the experience relatively commercial. To reach Zevenwacht (tel. 021/903-5123; Mon-Fri 8:30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-5pm) -- one of the prettiest wine estates in the country, with a manor house on the edge of a tranquil lake and views all the way to the ocean -- take the M12 to Kuilsriver.

Most of the wine estates are off the R44, which runs north to Paarl. Your first stop should be the beautiful Morgenhof to sample the merlot and chardonnay (tel. 021/889-5510; Mon-Fri 9am-4:30pm, Sat-Sun 10am-5pm), followed by L'Avenir (tel. 021/889-5001; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm) to try the Pinotage. The turnoff for tiny Muratie, one of the most noncommercial estates, is next. This is a must if you like port and berry-rich red wines (tel. 021/865-2330; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm). Next is Kanonkop (tel. 021/884-4656), famous for its reds; the equally acclaimed Warwick (tel. 021/884-4410); and Le Bonheur (tel. 021/875-5478) -- all on the road to Paarl.

Some of the best estates on the Stellenbosch wine route are on the Helshoogte Pass, which links Stellenbosch with Franschhoek.

Finally, if you're tired of tasting wine, take the 10km (6 1/4-mile) circular drive through the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve, stopping for lunch at Lanzerac -- ask for a map from the tourism bureau. This is also where you'll find Neil Ellis (tel. 021/887-0649; Mon-Fri 9:30am-4:30pm, Sat 10am-2pm), another estate producing superb wines.