As for after-dark fun, Statia ain't Las Vegas. Nightlife pickings here are among the slimmest in the Caribbean. Weekends are the best -- maybe the only -- time to go out. Smoke Alley Bar & Grill, Lower Town, Gallows Bay (tel. 599/318-2002), is an open-air beach bar with live music on Friday night; it's open Monday to Saturday 6 to 10pm. For local flavor, try Cool Corner, Wilhelminaweg, Uppertown, Oranjestad (tel. 599/318-2523), across from the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum, in the center of town.