Shopping

Compared to St. Thomas, St. John's shopping isn't much, but what's here is interesting. The boutiques and shops of Cruz Bay are individualized and quite special. Most of the shops are clustered at Mongoose Junction (North Shore Rd., Cruz Bay), in a woodsy area beside the roadway, about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock.

Before you leave the island, you'll want to visit the recently expanded Wharfside Village (tel. 340/693-8210; www.wharfsidevillage.com), just a few steps from the ferry-departure point. This complex of courtyards, alleys, and shady patios is a mishmash of boutiques, along with some restaurants, fast-food joints, and bars.

Bajo El Sol, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/693-7070; www.bajoelsolgallery.com), is a cooperative and award-winning gallery displaying the work of many island artists. For sale are paintings, sculpture, ceramics, and jewelry.

Bamboula, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/693-8699; www.bamboulastjohn.com), has an exotic and very appealing collection of gifts from St. John, the Caribbean, India, Indonesia, and Central Africa. The store also has men and women's clothing under its own label -- hand-batiked soft cottons and rayons made for comfort in a hot climate.

Here's your chance to pick up a unique item. A total of 100 artists, artisans, and designers have their work showcased at The Best of Both Worlds (tel. 340/639-8520; www.thebestofstjohn.com), in Mongoose Junction. The shop is a great place for one-of-a-kind gifts and local art. Many award-winning designers display their work, ranging from jewelry to art glass, lamps, dishware, and clocks. You will find especially good buys in artistic glasswork.

If you're planning to hike the trails of lush St. John, and you've arrived unprepared, Big Planet Adventure Outfitters, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6638), is the best place to go to stock up on outdoor clothing. Reef footwear and Naot sandals are sold, along with a selection of other durable items, including backpacks, luggage, sunglasses, and the like.

The Canvas Factory, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6196), produces its own handmade, colorful canvas bags, as well as sailing hats and soft-sided luggage.

Donald Schnell Studio, next to the Texaco gas station, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6420; www.donaldschnell.com), is a working studio and gallery where Mr. Schnell and his assistants have created one of the finest collections of handmade pottery, sculpture, and blown glass in the Caribbean. The staff can be seen working daily. They're known for their rough-textured coral work. Water fountains are a specialty item, as are house signs and coral-pottery dinnerware. The studio will ship all over the world, so no need to worry about carrying it all back on the plane. Go in and discuss any particular design you may have in mind.

Every Ting, Bay Street, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/693-7730), is the best of the all-purpose stores, and it's also a gathering point for locals and visitors alike. It's like a nerve center where you can drop in for a "cuppa" or to use the Internet. You can find reading material here for the beach along with music CDs, cotton resort wear, and of course campy picture frames decorated with pinkish shells gathered on the beach.

Fabric Mill, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6194; www.thefabricmill.com), features silk-screened and batik fabrics from around the world and around the corner. Vibrant rugs and bed, bathroom, and table linens can add a Caribbean flair to your home. Whimsical soft sculpture, sarongs, scarves, and handbags are also made here.

The Marketplace, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6455), with its dramatic architecture and native stone, is a cool place to shop on a hot day, thanks to its verandas and courtyards. It's ideal if you're renting a condo on St. John, as many visitors do, as the market here includes everything from a hardware shop to a video store, plus healthcare needs and a lot more.

R&I PATTON Goldsmithing, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6548; http://pattongold.com), is one of the oldest businesses on the island. Three-quarters of the merchandise here is made on St. John, with a large selection of jewelry in sterling silver, gold, and precious stones. Also featured are the works of goldsmiths from outstanding American studios, as well as Spanish coins.

The location of the Shop at Caneel Bay, in the Caneel Bay resort (tel. 340/776-6111), guarantees both an upscale clientele and an upscale assortment of merchandise. Scattered over two simple, elegant floors are drugstore items, books, sundries, and handicrafts, as well as some unusual artwork and pieces of expensive jewelry. There are also racks of resort wear and sportswear for men and women. The shop carries handbags and watches by top designers.

The Best Shopping Day -- The most fun shopping on the island takes place on St. John Saturday, a colorful, drum-beating, spicy feast for the senses, held on the last Saturday of every month. This daylong event begins early in the morning in the center of town and spills across the park. Vendors hawk handmade items, ranging from jewelry to handicrafts and clothing, and food made from local ingredients. One vendor concocts soothing salves from recipes passed on by her ancestors; another designs and makes porcelain earrings; another flavors chicken and burgers with her own wonderful secret hickory barbecue sauce; yet another hollows out and carves gourds from local calabash trees.