Shopping

The island teems with duty-free bargains in just about everything from linen to liquor, china to cameras, with prices as much as 25% to 40% lower than those in the U.S. and Canada (the gains, of course, somewhat offset by the dollar's slide against the euro). There's an energizing hubbub in Philipsburg every morning as cruise-ship passengers scatter eagerly in search of latter-day treasure: The goods displayed in the windows along Front Street are a mind-boggling display of conspicuous consumption, with an emphasis on high-end (gold, diamond, and platinum) jewelry and designer watches. Philipsburg's inviting French counterpart Marigot boasts smart boutiques with striped awnings and wrought-iron balconies that recall the Riviera, and galleries showcasing local artists' work. Philipsburg encourages you to "shop till you drop." Marigot murmurs seductively, "relax, the shops will still be open in an hour or two": It's the perfect place to savor the salt air, watch the ferries load for Anguilla, and enjoy a steaming cup of café au lait.

Contemporary Art -- The island's charming local scenes and resplendent light have inspired such renowned artists as Romare Bearden over the years. I generally find the galleries more sophisticated on the French side; curious shoppers can also visit various ateliers.

Jewelry -- Front Street seems like one jeweler after another (not unlike New York's West 47th St. Diamond Exchange), all selling loose stones as well as designer items. Marigot counters with its selection of luxury brands, particularly in watches. Many stores operate branches on both sides of the island. Note: Beware of unscrupulous hucksters selling loose "gems" like emeralds and diamonds on the street.

Liquors, Candies & Cigars -- In addition to the usual upmarket single malt and stogie culprits (remember that Cubanos are illegal in the U.S.), the island produces its own concoctions noteworthy for their attractive packaging. Though the base rums are imported from Guadeloupe, local distillers blend or infuse them creatively. Look for Rum Jumbie, whose flavored varieties include coconut, mango, vanilla, and pineapple. But its trademark is Guavaberry liqueur (incorporating citrus, spices, and passion fruit), sold in a sculpted brown figurine bottle that resembles a cross between Harry Belafonte in his Calypso days and Aunt Jemima.

The Shopping Scene

Not only is Dutch St. Maarten a free port, but it has no local sales taxes. Prices are sometimes lower here than anywhere else in the Caribbean, except possibly St. Thomas. Many well-known shops from Curaçao have branches here.

Except for the boutiques at resort hotels, the main shopping area is in the center of Philipsburg. Most of the leading shops -- from Tiffany to Tommy Hilfiger -- line Voorstraat (Front Street), which stretches for about 2km (1 1/4 miles). The Sint Rose Shopping Mall, on the boardwalk on Front Street, has such big names as Cartier, Lalique, and Façonnable.

Just off Front Street, Old Street lives up to its name, with adorable 19th-century houses that today contain specialty stores. More shops and souvenir kiosks sit along the little lanes, known as steegjes, that connect Front Street with Achterstraat (Back Street), another shoppers' haven.

Maho Plaza (surrounding the glitzy Sonesta Maho Beach Resort) is another area for name-brand offerings (and outlets), including branches of Front Street stalwarts.

In general, the prices marked on the merchandise are firm, though at some small, personally run shops, where the owner is on-site, some bargaining might be in order.

Many day-trippers head to Marigot from the Dutch side just to browse the French-inspired boutiques and shopping arcades. Since St. Martin is also a duty-free port, you'll find some good buys here as well, even at the ultraluxe boutiques along rue de la République, rue du Général de Gaulle, and rue de la Liberté (think New York's Madison Ave. or Paris's av. Montaigne). French luxury items such as Christofle tableware, Vuitton bags, Cartier accessories, and Chanel perfume are understandably emphasized.

The waterfront Le West Indies Mall (tel. 590/51-04-19) is an ornate stone-wood-and-concrete structure with arches, skylights, curved staircases, and gazebos galore. But it does concentrate 22 big-name boutiques, from Escada to Lacoste, their wares brightly lit and displayed. You'll also find a branch of the venerable gourmet shop Hédiard (established in Paris in 1854), where you can purchase champagne, caviar, and foie gras; its aromatic tea room is a delightful stop for fresh pastries. Smaller but equally prestigious complexes include Galerie Périgourdine and Plaza Caraïbes (Cartier and Hermès outposts).

At Marigot's harbor side, there's a lively morning market on Wednesday and Saturday with vendors selling spices, fruit, shells, and handicrafts. There's a cookie-cutter quality to the crafts, with many of the vendors offering the same goods, but it's a good spot to pick up some spices.

At bustling Marina Port la Royale, mornings are even more active: Schooners unload produce from the neighboring islands, boats board guests for picnics on deserted beaches, and a dozen different little restaurants ready for the lunch crowd. Marina Royale is peppered with boutiques and galleries selling everything from lingerie to liqueurs.

Several clothing boutiques and galleries fight for scraps of space between the bistros along the main drag of St. Martin's "second" city, Grand Case, nicknamed "Caribbean Restaurant Row." They keep unusual hours: Most are shuttered during the day, but fling their doors open come evening for pre- and post-dinner strollers.

Prices are often quoted in U.S. dollars, and salespeople frequently speak English. Credit cards and traveler's checks are generally accepted. When cruise ships are in port on Sundays and holidays, some of the larger shops stay open.