Shopping

In Dutch St. Maarten

Not only is St. Maarten a free port, but it also has no local sales taxes. Prices are sometimes lower here than anywhere else in the Caribbean, except possibly St. Thomas. On some items (fine liqueurs, cigarettes, Irish linen, German cameras, French perfumes), we've found prices 30% to 50% lower than in the United States or Canada. Many well-known shops on Curaçao have branches here.

Except for the boutiques at resort hotels, the main shopping area is in the center of Philipsburg. Most of the shops are on Voorstraat (Front Street), which stretches for about 2km (1 1/4 miles) and is lined with stores. More shops are along the little lanes, known as steegijes, that connect Front Street with Achterstraat (Back Street), another shoppers' haven.

In general, the prices marked on the merchandise are firm, though at some small, very personally run shops, where the owner is on-site, some bargaining might be in order.

Antillean Liquors, Queen Juliana Airport (tel. 599/54-54267), has a complete assortment of liquor and liqueurs, cigarettes, and cigars. Prices are generally lower here than in other stores on the island, and the selection is larger. Locally produced guavaberry liqueur is also for sale.

Del Sol St-Maarten, 23 Front St. (tel. 599/54-28784), sells men's and women's sportswear. Embedded into the mostly black-and-white designs are organic crystals that react to ultraviolet light, which transforms the fabric into a rainbow of colors. Step back into the shadows, and your T-shirt will revert to its original black-and-white design. The same technology is applied to yo-yos, which shimmer psychedelically when you bob them up and down.

Colombian Emeralds International, Old Street Shopping Center (tel. 599/54-23933), sells unmounted emeralds from Colombia, as well as emerald, gold, diamond, ruby, and sapphire jewelry. Prices are approximately the same as in other outlets of this famous Caribbean chain. There are some huckster vendors around the island pawning fakes off on unsuspecting tourists; if you're seriously shopping for emerald, this is the place.

Belgian Chocolate Shop, 109 Old St. (tel. 599/54-28863), is the best of its kind on island. Contrary to popular rumor, only some of the velvety chocolates sold in this upscale shop are pornographic, portraying parts of the human anatomy. It's always busy here, especially when cruise ships are berthed at the nearby piers.

Guavaberry Company, 8-10 Front St. (tel. 599/54-22965), sells the rare "island folk liqueur" of St. Maarten, which for centuries was made only in private homes. Sold in square bottles, this rum-based liqueur is flavored with rare guavaberries, usually grown on the hills in the center of the island. (Don't confuse guavaberries with guavas -- they're very different.) The liqueur has a fruity, woody, almost bittersweet flavor. You can blend it with coconut for a guavaberry colada or pour a splash into a glass of icy champagne. They also sell mango liqueur, spices, and various types of hot sauces.

Greenwich Galleries, 35 Front St. (tel. 599/54-23842), is the most interesting and sophisticated art gallery on either side of the island, with Bajan pottery in tones of sea greens and blues, replicas of Taíno artifacts from the Dominican Republic, enameled metal cutouts that are both quirky and perplexing, and a range of paintings and lithographs from artists as far away as Holland and Britain.

Little Switzerland, 52 Front St. (tel. 599/54-22523), is part of a chain of stores spread throughout the Caribbean. These fine-quality European imports are made even more attractive by the prices, often 25% (or more) lower than stateside. Elegant famous-name watches, china, crystal, and jewelry are for sale, plus Tiffany perfumes and accessories. Little Switzerland has the best overall selection of these items of any shop on the Dutch side.

In French St. Martin

Many day-trippers come over to Marigot from the Dutch side of the island just to visit the French-inspired boutiques and shopping arcades. Because St. Martin is also a duty-free port, you'll find some of the best shopping in the Caribbean here as well. There's a wide selection of European merchandise, much of it luxury items such as crystal, fashions, fine liqueurs, and cigars, sometimes at 25% to 50% less than in the United States and Canada. Whether you're seeking jewelry, perfume, or St. Tropez bikinis, you'll find it in one of the boutiques along rue de la République and rue de la Liberté in Marigot. Look especially for French luxury items, such as Lalique crystal, Vuitton bags, and Chanel perfume.

Prices are often quoted in U.S. dollars, and salespeople frequently speak English. Credit cards and traveler's checks are generally accepted. When cruise ships are in port on Sundays and holidays, some of the larger shops stay open.

At harborside in Marigot, there's a lively morning market on Wednesday and Saturday with vendors selling spices, fruit, shells, and handicrafts. Shops here tend to be rather upscale, catering to passengers of the small but choice cruise ships that dock offshore.

At bustling Port La Royale, mornings are even more active: Schooners unload produce from the neighboring islands, boats board guests for picnics on deserted beaches, a brigantine sets out on a sightseeing sail, and a dozen different little restaurants are readying for the lunch crowd. One of the largest shopping arcades on St. Martin, Port La Royale has lots of boutiques.

Havane Boutique, 50 Marina Port La Royale (tel. 590/87-70-39), is a hyper-stylish menswear store, more couture than ready-to-wear. Serge Blanco "15" Boutique, Marina Port La Royale (tel. 590/29-65-49), is a relatively unknown name in North America, but in France Blanco is revered as one of the most successful rugby players of all time. His menswear is sporty, fun, and elegant. Clothes include polo shirts, shorts, shoes, and truly wonderful latex jackets.

Another complex, the Galerie Périgourdine, facing the post office, also has a cluster of boutiques. Here you can pick up designer wear for both men and women, including items from the collection of Ted Lapidus.

Act III, 3 rue du Général-de-Gaulle (tel. 590/29-28-43), is perhaps the most glamorous women's boutique in St. Martin. It prides itself on its evening gowns and chic cocktail dresses. If you've been invited to a reception aboard a private yacht, this is the place to find the right outfit. Designers include Alaia, Gianni Versace, Christian Lacroix, Cavalli, Armani, Lanvin, and Gaultier. The bilingual staff is accommodating, tactful, and charming.

Roland Richardson Paintings and Prints, 6 rue de la République (tel. 590/87-84-08), has a beautiful gallery. A native of St. Martin, Mr. Richardson is one of the Caribbean's premier artists, working in oil, watercolors, pastels, and charcoal. Called a "modern-day Gauguin," he is known for his landscapes, portraits, and colorful still lifes. His work has been exhibited in more than 70 one-man and group exhibitions in museums and galleries around the world.