Beaches

Coves scissor the island's rugged littoral like a child's whimsical paper cutouts; with 39 beautiful beaches of varying length and hue, it's fairly easy to find a place to park your towel. All are public though access is often via a rutted dirt road and/or through a fancy resort. Beaches on the western leeward half are generally hotter and calmer; those on the eastern windward side are, predictably, breezier with rougher swells (when not reef-protected). Warning: If it's too secluded, be careful. It's unwise to carry valuables; robberies have been reported on some remote strips. And never leave valuables in the car.

Wherever you stay, you're never far from the water. Beach samplers can sometimes use the changing facilities at bigger resorts for a small fee. Beach bars often rent chairs and umbrellas for roughly $6 and $3, respectively, but may waive the charge if you order lunch or drinks. Those who prefer topless sunbathing should head for the French side of the island, although the Dutch side is getting more liberal.

Dutch Side

Popular Cupecoy Beach is very close to the Dutch-French border at the island's southwest tip. It's a string of three sand beaches set against a backdrop of caves, rock formations resembling abstract sculpture, and dramatically eroded limestone cliffs that provide morning shade. Locals come around with coolers of cold beer and soda for sale, though you can also pop into two bars with absolutely stunning sunset views. The beach has two parking lots, one near Cupecoy and Sapphire beach clubs, the other a short distance to the west. Parking costs $2. You must descend stone-carved steps to reach the sands. Cupecoy is also the island's major gay beach. Clothing is optional toward the northwest side of the beach. Warning: The steep drop-off and high swells make the beach hazardous for young children and weak swimmers; prevailing weather affects not only the surf but also the sands' width.

The next strand down, west of the airport, palm-shaded white-sand Mullet Bay Beach beckons. Once it was the most crowded beach on the island, but St. Maarten's largest resort, Mullet Bay, has been shuttered (save for a timeshare section) since Hurricane Luis in 1995, so it's relatively deserted, though locals flock here on weekends. Watersports equipment can be rented at a local kiosk, while a few stands dish out local fare. Local surfers enjoy the wave action and rip currents (never swim alone here!); snorkelers will find several miniature bejeweled reefs around the offshore rocks. Any beachcomber will savor the views of Saba and Statia, as well as the lovely sunsets.

Another lovely spot near the airport, Maho Beach, at the Sonesta Maho Beach Hotel and Casino is a classic Caribbean crescent that dances to a reggae beat, with vendors hawking colorful wares and locals inviting you to impromptu beach barbecues. This is one of the island's busiest beaches, buzzing with windsurfers -- and buzzed by jumbo jets that nearly decapitate the palm trees. The blasts from 747s and 757s are so powerful they've been known to topple cars: Shield your eyes from the sand storm and hang onto your hats, towels, and partner. Food and drink can be purchased at the hotel, as well as such legendary watering holes as Sunset Beach Bar and Bamboo Bernie's, where the takeoffs and landings are augmented by other entertainment.

West of Philipsburg before you reach the airport, the 2km-long (1 1/4-mile) white sands of crescent-shaped Simpson Bay Beach ring the lagoon and are set against a backdrop of brightly hued fishing boats, yachts, and town homes that resembles an Impressionist canvas. This beach is ideal for a stroll or a swim (beware the steep drop-off), with calm waters and surprisingly few crowds. Watersports equipment rentals are available, but there are no changing rooms or other facilities, and only a couple of bars. Adjacent Kim Sha Beach is often mistakenly considered part of Simpson Bay, though it lies outside the lagoon. It's generally livelier, with local outings, frequent promotions, sand castle competitions, watersports operators, and several eateries within walking distance.

Great Bay Beach is best if you're staying along Front Street in Philipsburg. This 2km-long (1 1/4-mile) beach is sandy and calm; despite bordering the busy capital, it's surprisingly clean: Think of it as St. Maarten's less trendy answer to South Beach in Miami. It's a splendid place to kick back after shopping, admiring the cruise ships from one of many strategic bars along the new boardwalk. On a clear day, you'll have a view of Saba. Immediately to the west, at the foot of Fort Amsterdam, is picturesque Little Bay Beach, but it, too, can be overrun with tourists disgorged by the cruise ships. When you tire of the sands here, you can climb up to the site of Fort Amsterdam itself. Built in 1631, it was the first Dutch military outpost in the Caribbean. The Spanish captured it 2 years later, making it their most important bastion east of Puerto Rico. Only a few of the fort's walls remain, but the view is panoramic. Snorkeling is excellent, and several resorts offer plentiful refreshment and recreation options.

Guana Bay, just north of Philipsburg up Pondfill and Guana Bay roads, is long, wide, windswept, and usually deserted (aside from a few surfer dudes and boogie boardistas hanging ten and hanging out). It's topless; the southern section is often clothing-optional. Baying guard dogs occasionally interrupt the solitude (it's a mini-celebrity enclave), the Atlantic swells can be fierce, and it lacks shade and facilities. But the rugged beauty, seclusion, and smashing St. Barts views compensate.

On the east side of the island, Dawn Beach is noted for its underwater life, with some of the island's most beautiful reefs immediately offshore. Visitors talk ecstatically of its incredible sunrises. Dawn is suitable for swimming and offers year-round activities such as sand-castle-building contests and crab races. There's plenty of wave action for both surfers and windsurfers. Fairly undeveloped until recently, Dawn Beach is now the site of the Westin Resort. This, in addition to the expansion of Oyster Bay Resort, has diminished its peaceful allure, but the views of St. Barts, remarkable reef, and soft pearly sand remain unchanged. Food and drink come courtesy of Busby's Beach Bar (tel. 599/543-6828), reincarnated come evening as a scintillating Italian restaurant, Daniel's by the Sea; Ms. B's (tel. 599/557-7370); and the Oyster Bay Resort's worthy beachfront bar on the section also called Oyster Pond Beach, where bodysurfers take advantage of the rolling waves.

French Side

Baie Longue (Long Bay) on the west coast is one of those beaches that exudes a pull as potent as pheromones: pristine water, sand the hue of antique lace, dunes as curvaceous as Goya's Naked Maja. Chic, expensive La Samanna hotel opens onto this beachfront, but it's otherwise blissfully undeveloped and uncrowded, conducive to R&R. Its reef-protected waters are ideal for snorkeling, but beware of the strong undertow and steep drop-off; there was also a little erosion when I visited last, and ongoing construction of exclusive private villas on the resort's southern ledge was something of an eyesore. Baie Longue is to the north of Cupecoy Bay Beach, reached via the Lowlands Road. Don't leave valuables in your car, as break-ins have been reported along this stretch of highway.

Baie aux Prunes (Plum Bay) is a Cheshire grin of ivory sand, stretching luxuriantly around St. Martin's northwest point. This is a sublimely romantic sunset perch (bring your own champagne, as there are no facilities) that also offers good surfing and snorkeling near the rocks. Access it via the Lowlands Road past Baie Longue.

Baie Rouge (Red Beach), is caught between two craggy headlands where flocks of gulls and terns descend like clouds upon the cliffs at dusk -- hence its western end is dubbed Falaise des Oiseaux (Birds' Bluff). The other side is marked by the Trou du Diable (Devil's Hole), a collapsed cave with two natural arches where the sea churns like a washing machine. You'll find superlative snorkeling here, but beware the powerful undertow. Beachwear becomes increasingly optional as you stroll west, though the modest will find several stands hawking sarongs, shorts, and sunbonnets. Baie Rouge is a charmer, from the serene waters to the views of Anguilla to the accueil sympa (cordial welcome) at the two beach bars, Gus' (no phone) and Chez Raymond (tel. 690/30-70-49). The latter cooks up blistering barbecue and delivers a knockout punch with Raymond's Special, a blend of six rums, and rocks with reggae on weekends.

Baie Nettlé (Nettle Bay) unfurls like a plush beige carpet between the Caribbean and Simpson Bay, just west of Marigot. Access is right off the main highway running through Sandy Ground. The area has become increasingly developed in the past decade, with several hotels, apartment complexes, watersports franchises (waterskiing and kiteboarding are quite popular), and tiny beach bars alternating with fancier restaurants. The view on the Caribbean side frames Anguilla, Marigot's harbor to the north, and the ruins of La Belle Creole along the Pointe du Bluff to the south. Among the numerous pieds dans l'eau (literally, feet in water) bistros, I love Laurent Maudert's Ma Ti Beach Bar (tel. 590/87-01-30), where specialties include homemade duck foie gras and calamari "steak" flambéed with Pastis.

Isolated Anse des Pères (Friar's Bay Beach) lies at the end of a winding bumpy country road that always has me begging for a chiropractor; its clearly signposted entrance intersects with the main highway between Grand Case and Marigot. Although you certainly won't be alone here, this is a less-visited beach with ample parking. Shelling, snorkeling, and sunset watching are all favored. Two beloved beach bars organize raucous themed bashes. At Friar's Bay Beach Café (no phone) you can purchase a provocative, often politically charged painting on display or order Laurent's sublime stuffed mussels. The competitor is Kali's Beach Bar (tel. 590/49-06-81), a thatched bamboo hut splashed in Rasta colors, where Kali himself serves some of the island's best barbecue. Kali hosts "full moon parties," featuring reggae bands on the beach along with a bonfire and plenty of drink. Tip: Have one of the staff here point you in the direction of relatively undiscovered Anse Heureuse (Happy Bay), a 10-minute walk north through underbrush over a hill from Friar's (pause to drink in the views of Anguilla). It richly deserves the name, thanks to the tranquillity, fine snorkeling, and blinding white sand fringed by swaying palms.

White-sand Grand Case Beach, a long narrow ribbon right in the middle of Grand Case, is often crowded, especially on weekends. The waters are very calm, so swimming is excellent and it's a good choice for kids. A small beach, it has its own charm, with none of the carnival-like atmosphere found elsewhere. Unparalleled dining choices along the Caribbean's "Restaurant Row" run from lolos (essentially barbecue shacks) to gourmet bistros. For something in between, try the fun and funky Calmos Café.

To the east of Grand Case, follow the winding road up and over Pigeon Pea Hill. The spectacular setting of Anse Marcel comes into view. The adjacent Marina Port de Lonvilliers offers several restaurants and shops, and the former le Méridien is now a Radisson, with additional recreational and gustatory opportunities. The beach itself is protected, with shallow waters ideal for families. You can swim here or else take a hike for 1 1/2 hours north over a hill and down to one of the island's most pristine beaches, Baie de Petites Cayes. This is also the most idyllic spot on St. Martin for a picnic. A ribbon of brilliant white sand beckons, and the waters ripple from sapphire to turquoise. Part of the fun is the hike itself, with panoramic views stretching all the way to Anguilla.

On the east coast, clothing optional Baie Orientale (Orient Beach) is a beauty. Its southern end contains the naturist resort, Club Orient: Passing cruise ships actually snap the sexy Gallic 20-somethings molting thong bikinis and grand-mères letting it all hang out. But you needn't shed your bathing suit or inhibitions. This buoyant beach jumps with bands and bistros, vendors and swimwear models, and watersports from windsurfing to waterskiing to snorkeling around the pyrotechnically colored offshore reef. Eating, drinking, and people-watching qualify as sports, and many beach bistro/bars offer not only grilled crayfish Creole to Cristal, but also live music, boutiques (with fashion shows), massages, parasailing, jet ski rentals, kiteboard instruction, and more. Of those marketing themselves as "the Five Stars of Orient Bay," Waïkiki Beach (tel. 590/87-43-19) is a favorite of the well-heeled barefoot St. Barts set, who down beluga caviar with Belvedere shots. Kontiki (tel. 590/87-43-27) has two sections: the main eatery and the Tiki Hut, serving a mix of dishes from jerk chicken to paninis to quesadillas to sushi. Bikini Beach (tel. 590/87-43-25), which also stays open for dinner, runs from American-styled hamburgers to Spanish-influenced paella studded with lobster; its Manokini snack bar is cheaper (it stocks fine wraps). Like Kontiki, the live music and DJs (best Tues-Wed and Fri) rock. Don't miss the non-star weekend hot spot, Boo-Boo-Jam (tel. 590/87-03-13), with wild Caribbean music mixes, various sponsored parties, and a Sunday afternoon bash that attracts locals in droves. Remarkably for this adult sandbox, it offers a playground and kid-friendly activities. Another must is Baywatch (tel. 690/66-22-27), Andy and Cheryl Susko's little piece of the Jersey shore (can't beat those hot wings, meatballs, or sausage-and-pepper sandwiches).

Baie de l'Embouchure, embracing Le Galion and Coconut Grove beaches, just south of Orient, is part of the St. Martin Réserve Sous-Marine Régionale, established to protect migrant waterfowl habitats and rebuild mangrove swamps. A coral reef encloses the bay: The calm shallow water (you can wade up to 100m/330ft. out) makes it ideal for kids -- it's the only beach on the French side where topless sunbathing is discouraged. Yet the steady gusts also make it a windsurfing mecca; Tropical Wave is one of the best places to learn. Tiki carvings and blue umbrellas mark the appealing Le Galion Restaurant (aka Chez Pat after owner Pat Turner; tel. 590/87-37-25). Locals love this laid-back spot; many families make charcoal pits in the sand for impromptu barbecues.