Il Nettuno

The island's most elaborate Italian restaurant gracefully handles a cosmopolitan, international crowd. It was established by a seasoned Italian restaurateur, Raymon Losito, whose career included a 25-year stint at a French restaurant in Washington, D.C., where he befriended the Redskins' ex-owner, the late Jack Kent Cooke. He exported his fanaticism to St Martin: One wall is devoted to the "home of a Redskins fan" (caps, pennants, "bears," reserved parking sign). It's a great watering hole, outfitted in the colors of the Italian flag, and drawing a fervent crowd of fans for U.S. football games; Raymon hosts splashy parties during the playoff season. Meals are served on a large, rambling wooden veranda that the owners bravely refurbish after hurricanes. Specialties include fresh steamed mussels, a classic minestrone, homemade veal ravioli, linguine with clams, and shrimp fra diavolo. The desserts are superb.

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