Planning a trip to Stockholm

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

You can travel throughout Stockholm county by bus, local train, subway (T-bana), and trams, going from Singö in the north to Nynäshamn in the south. The routes are divided into zones, and one ticket is valid for all types of public transportation in the same zone within 1 hour of the time the ticket is stamped.

Regular Fares -- The basic fare for public transportation (in Stockholm this means subway, tram/streetcar, or bus) requires tickets purchased from the agent in the tollbooth on the subway platform, not from a vending machine. Each ticket costs 20SEK ($4/£2), and allows travel to points within most of urban Stockholm, all the way to the borders of the inner city. You can transfer (or double back and return to your starting point) within 1 hour of your departure for free. For more information, search www.sl.se/English.

Special Discount Tickets -- Your best transportation bet is to purchase a tourist season ticket. A 1-day card, costing 100SEK ($20/£10) for adults and 60SEK ($12/£6) for ages 7 to 20 and seniors, is valid for 24 hours of unlimited travel by T-bana, bus, and commuter train within Stockholm. It also includes passage on the ferry to Djurgården. Most visitors will prefer the 3-day card for 200SEK ($40/£20) for adults and 120SEK ($24/£12) for ages 7 to 20 and seniors, valid for 72 hours in both Stockholm and the adjacent county. The 3-day card also is valid for admission to Skansen, Kaknästornet, and Gröna Lund. Kids up to 7 years of age can travel free with an adult. These tickets are available at tourist information offices, in subway stations, and at most news vendors. Call tel. 08/600-10-00 for more information.

Stockholmskortet (Stockholm Card; www.stockholmtown.com) is a personal discount card that allows unlimited travel by bus, subway, and local trains throughout the city and county of Stockholm (except on airport buses). You can take a sightseeing tour with City Sightseeing, where you can get on and off as often as you please. These tours are available daily from mid-June to mid-August. In addition, the card enables you to take a boat trip to the Royal Palace of Drottningholm for half-price. Admission to 75 museums and attractions is also included in the package.

You can purchase the card at several places in the city, including the Tourist Center in Sweden House, Hotell Centralen, the Central Station, the tourist information desk in City Hall (in summer), the Kaknäs TV tower, SL-Center Sergels Torg (subway entrance level), and Pressbyrän newsstands. The cards are stamped with the date and time at the first point of usage. A 24-hour card costs 330SEK ($66/£33) for adults and 160SEK ($32/£16) for ages 7 to 20 and seniors; a 48-hour card is 460SEK ($92/£46) for adults and 190SEK ($38/£19) for children and seniors; and a 72-hour card is 580SEK ($116/£58) for adults and 220SEK ($44/£22) for children and seniors.

By T-bana (Subway) -- Before entering the subway, passengers tell the ticket seller the destination, and then purchase tickets. Subway entrances are marked with a blue "T" on a white background. For information about schedules, routes, and fares, phone tel. 08/600-10-00.

By Bus -- Where the subway line ends, the bus begins; therefore, if a subway connection doesn't conveniently cover a particular area of Stockholm, a bus will. The two systems have been coordinated to complement each other. Many visitors use a bus to reach Djurgården (although you can walk) because the T-bana doesn't go here.

By Car

If you're driving around the Swedish capital, you'll find several parking garages in the city center as well as on the outskirts. In general, you can park at marked spaces Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm. Exceptions or rules for specific areas are indicated on signs in the area.

By Taxi

Taxis are expensive -- in fact, the most expensive in the world. The meter starts at 45SEK ($9/£4.50), and costs can range upwards from 307SEK ($61/£31) per hour. Those that display an illuminated dome light can be hailed directly on the street, or you can order one by phone. Taxi Stockholm (tel. 08/15-00-00; www.taxistockholm.se) is one of the city's larger, more reputable companies. Unlike other Nordic nations, Sweden has not been successful at regulating its taxi industry. More than any other nation in Scandinavia, in Sweden, it's best to inquire before you get in whether the taxi is metered or -- if the driver is proposing a set price -- what the price will be.

By Ferry

Ferries from Skeppsbron on Gamla Stan (near the bridge to Södermalm) will take you to Djurgården if you don't want to walk or go by bus. They leave every 20 minutes Monday to Friday from 7:40am to midnight, and about every 15 minutes on Saturday to Sunday, 9am to midnight, charging 30SEK ($6/£3) for adults and seniors and children 7 to 12; passage is free for children under 7.

By Bicycle

The best place to go cycling is on Djurgården. You can rent bicycles from Djurgårdsbrons Skepp o Hoj, Djurgårdsbron (tel. 08/660-57-57), for about 250SEK ($50/£25) per day. It's open May to August daily from 9am to 9pm.

Orientation

City Layout

Main Streets & Arteries -- Stockholm's major streets -- Kungsgatan (the main shopping street), Birger Jarlsgatan, Drottningsgata, and Strandvägen (which leads to Djurgården) -- are on Norrmalm (north of the Old Town), and are reserved (with some exceptions) mainly for pedestrians. Stureplan, which lies at the junction of the major avenues Kungsgatan and Birger Jarlsgatan, is the commercial hub of the city.

About 4 blocks east of Stureplan rises Hötorget City, a landmark of modern urban planning that includes five 18-story skyscrapers. Its main traffic-free artery is Sergelgatan, a 3-block shopper's promenade that eventually leads to the modern sculptures at the center of Sergels Torg.

About 9 blocks south of Stureplan, at Gustav Adolfs Torg, are both the Royal Dramatic Theater and the Royal Opera House.

A block east of the flaming torches of the opera house is the verdant north-south stretch of Kungsträdgården -- part avenue, part public park -- which serves as a popular gathering place for students and a resting spot for shoppers.

Three blocks to the southeast, on a famous promontory, are the landmark Grand Hotel and the National Museum.

Most visitors to Stockholm arrive at the SAS Airport Bus Terminal, the Central Station, or Stockholm's Central (Public) Bus Station. Each of these is in the heart of the city, on the harborfront, about 7 blocks due west of the opera house. Kungsholmen (King's Island) lies across a narrow canal from the rest of the city, a short walk west from the Central Station. It's visited chiefly by those who want to tour Stockholm's elegant Stadshuset (City Hall).

South of Gamla Stan (Old Town), and separated from it by a narrow but much-navigated stretch of water, is Södermalm, the southern district of Stockholm. Quieter than its northern counterpart, it's an important residential area with a distinctive flavor of its own and a nostalgic reputation for housing, sometimes in overcrowded squalor, the factory workers of the 19th century's industrial revolution. Fast-growing, with a higher density of new, counterculture bars, stores, and nightclubs than any other district of Stockholm, it emerged around the turn of the millennium as one of the most talked-about districts in the capital. Greta Garbo claimed this island as the site of her childhood home.

To the east of Gamla Stan, on a large and forested island completely surrounded by the complicated waterways of Stockholm, is Djurgården (Deer Park). The summer pleasure ground of Stockholm is the site of many of its most popular attractions: the open-air museums of Skansen, the Vasa man-of-war, Gröna Lund's Tivoli, the Waldemarsudde estate of the "painting prince" Eugen, and the Nordic Museum.

Finding an Address -- All even numbers are on one side of the street, and all odd numbers are on the opposite side. Buildings are listed in numerical order but often have an A, B, or C after the number. In the very center of town, numbered addresses start from Sergels Torg.

Maps -- Free maps of Stockholm are available at the tourist office, but if you want to explore the narrow old streets of Gamla Stan, you'll need a more detailed map. Pocket-size maps, with a street index that can be opened and folded like a wallet, are sold at most newsstands in central Stockholm and at major bookstores, including Akademibokhandeln, Mäster Samuelsgatan 28 (tel. 08/402-11-00).

Neighborhoods in Brief

As you'd expect of a city spread across 14 major islands in an archipelago, Stockholm has many neighborhoods, but those of concern to the ordinary visitor lie in central Stockholm. We'll begin with the most nostalgic and evocative -- and our longtime favorite for sleeping or dining -- the Old Town.

Gamla Stan (Old Town) -- The "cradle" of Stockholm, Gamla Stan lies at the entrance to Lake Mälaren on the Baltic and, along with the excavated wreck of the Vasa, is the most popular attraction in Stockholm. The buildings here, in general, are most evocative of 18th-century Stockholm, built in romantic architectural styles, and there are many options for eating and drinking. The area's downside is that there are few hotels, and they tend to be expensive. Gamla Stan's major shopping street is the narrow Västerlånggatan, reserved almost exclusively for pedestrians, but many artisans' galleries, souvenir shops, and antiques stores abound on its small lanes. Its main square, and the heart of the ancient city, is Stortorget.

Norrmalm -- North of Gamla Stan, what was once a city suburb is now the cultural and commercial heart of modern Stockholm. Chances are that your hotel will be in this district, as the area is generously endowed with hotels in all price ranges. This is also the most convenient location for most visits, as it encompasses the City Terminal and the Central Station. Hotels here are not the most romantic in town, but they're generally modern, up-to-date, and well run.

The most famous park in Stockholm, Kungsträdgården (King's Garden), is in Norrmalm. In summer, this park is a major rendezvous point. Norrmalm also embraces the important squares of Sergels Torg and Hötorget, the latter a modern shopping complex. Norrmalm's major pedestrian shopping street is Drottninggatan, which starts at the bridge to the Old Town.

Vasastaden -- As Norrmalm expanded northward, the new district of Vasastaden was created. It's split by a trio of main arteries: St. Eriksgatan, Sveavägen, and Odengatan. The area around St. Eriksplan is called "the Off-Broadway of Stockholm" because it has so many theaters. Increasingly, this district has attracted fashionable restaurants and bars and has become a popular residential area for young Stockholmers who work in fields such as journalism, television, and advertising.

Vasastaden is slightly more removed from the action, but it's still a good bet for hotels. In international terms, Norrmalm would be like staying in New York's Times Square or London's Leicester Square, whereas Vasastaden would be equivalent to staying on the Upper East Side or Notting Hill. Hotels in Vasastaden come in a wide range of price categories.

Kungsholmen -- Once known as "Grey Friars Farm," Kungsholmen (King's Island), to the west of Gamla Stan, is the site of City Hall. One of its major arteries is Fleminggatan. Established by Charles XI in the 17th century as a zone for industry and artisans, the island is now gentrified with bars and restaurants. Some industry remains, though: Along Norrmälarstand, old Baltic cutters tie up to the banks, and Stockholm's newspapers have their headquarters at Marieberg on the southwestern tip of the island.

Södermalm -- South of Gamla Stan, Södermalm (where Greta Garbo was born) is the largest and most populated district in Stockholm. Once synonymous with poverty, this working-class area today is becoming more fashionable, especially with artists, writers, and young people. If you don't come here to stay in one of the moderately priced hotels or to dine in one of its restaurants, you should come to take the Katarina elevator, at Södermalmstorg, Slussen, for a good view of Stockholm and its harbor.

Östermalm -- In central Stockholm, east of the main artery Birger Jarlsgatan, lies Östermalm. In the Middle Ages, the royal family used to keep its horses, and even its armies, here. Today it's the site of the Army Museum. The area boasts wide straight streets and is home to one of the city's biggest parks, Humlegården, dating from the 17th century.

This is another of the city's hotel districts. While not as conveniently located as Norrmalm and Vasastaden, it's often easier to get rooms here.

Djurgården -- To the east of Gamla Stan (Old Town) is Djurgården (Deer Park), a forested island in a lake that's the summer recreation area of Stockholm. Here you can visit the open-air folk museums of Skansen, the Vasa man-of-war ship, Gröna Lund's Tivoli (Stockholm's own version of the Tivoli), the Waldemarsudde estate and gardens of the "painting prince" Eugen, and the Nordic Museum. The fastest way to get here is over the bridge at Strandvägen/Narvavägen.

Skeppsholmen -- On its own little island, which can be reached by crossing the Skeppsholmsbron bridge from the Blasieholmen district, Skeppsholmen is like a world apart from the rest of bustling Stockholm. Most people visit it to see the exhibits at the Moderna Museet. Skeppsholmen also is home to af Chapman, Sweden's most famous youth hostel, a gallant, tall ship that is a Stockholm landmark.

Fast Facts

American Express -- For local 24-hour customer service, call tel. 08/429-56-00.

Area Code -- The international country code for Sweden is 46; the city code for Stockholm is 08. (If you're calling Stockholm from abroad, drop the 0.) You do not need to dial 8 within Stockholm; do so only if you're outside the city.

Babysitters -- Stockholm hotels maintain lists of competent babysitters, nearly all of whom speak English. There is no official agency; rather, it's a word-of-mouth system. Your hotel reception desk can assist you.

Bookstores -- For a good selection of English-language books, including maps and touring guides, try Akademibokhandeln, Mäster Samuelsgatan 28 (tel. 08/402-11-00), open Monday to Friday from 10am to 7pm, Saturday from 10am to 4pm, and Sunday from noon to 4pm.

Car Rentals -- In Stockholm, some of the big car-rental companies include Avis, Ringvägen 90 (tel. 08/644-99-80), and Hertz, Vasagatan 24 (tel. 08/24-07-20).

Currency Exchange -- There's a currency exchange office, Forex, at the Central Station (tel. 08/411-67-34), open daily from 7am to 9pm. It's fully approved by both the Bank of Sweden and the Swedish tourist authorities, offers some of the best exchange rates in town, and takes some of the lowest commissions for cashing traveler's checks. Several other offices are scattered throughout the city.

Dentists -- Emergency dental treatment is offered at St. Eriks Hospital, Fleminggatan 22 (tel. 08/545-512-20), open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Doctors -- If you need 24-hour emergency medical care, check with Medical Care Information (tel. 08/320-100). There's also a private clinic, City Akuten, at Apelberg Sq. 48, 1st floor (tel. 08/545-291-85).

Drugstores -- C. W. Scheele, Klarabergsviadukten 64 (tel. 08/454-81-30), remains open 24 hours a day.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 112 for the police, ambulance service, or the fire department.

Eyeglasses -- The Nordiska Kompaniet, Hamngatan 18-20 (tel. 08/762-80-00), a leading Stockholm department store, has a registered optician on duty at its ground-floor service center. The optician performs vision tests, stocks a large selection of frames, and makes emergency repairs.

Hospitals -- Call Medical Care Information at tel. 08/32-01-00 and an English-speaking operator will inform you of the hospital closest to you; operators are available 24 hours daily.

Internet Cafe -- A convenient cybercafe is Dome House, Sveavägen 108 (tel. 08/612-61-10), open daily 11am to 3am, charging 19SEK ($4/£2) per hour.

Lost Property -- If you've lost something on the train, go to the Lost and Found office in the Central Station, lower concourse (tel. 08/762-25-50). The police also have such an office at the police station at Kungsholmsgatan 37 (tel. 08/401-01-00). The Stockholm Transit Company (SL) keeps its recovered articles at the Klaraostra Kyrkogata 6 (tel. 08/600-10-00).

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- Facilities are available at the Central Station on Vasagatan, lower concourse (tel. 08/762-25-95). Depending on the size of your baggage, the cost of storage ranges from 30SEK to 80SEK ($6-$16/£3-£8) per day. Lockers also can be rented at the ferry stations at Värtan and Tegelvikshamnen, at the Viking Line terminal, and at the Central Station.

Police -- Call tel. 112 in an emergency.

Post Office -- The main post office is at Centralstationen 10126 (tel. 08/781-24-25), open Monday to Friday 7am to 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6pm. If you want to pick up letters while you're abroad, they should be addressed to your name, c/o Post Restante, Post Center, Central Station 11120, Stockholm, Sweden.

Shoe Repair -- In the basement of Nordiska Kompaniet, Hamngatan 18-20 (tel. 08/762-80-00), a leading Stockholm department store, there is a shoe-repair place, which also may be able to repair broken luggage.

Telephone, Telex & Fax -- Instructions in English are posted in public phone boxes, which can be found on street corners. Very few phones in Sweden are coin-operated; most require a phone card, which can be purchased at most newspaper stands and tobacco shops.

Post offices throughout Stockholm now offer phone, fax, and telegram services. Of course, most guests can ask their hotels to send a fax. All but the smallest boarding houses in Stockholm today have fax services.

Toilets -- Public facilities can be found in the Central Station, in all subway stations, and in department stores, as well as along some of the major streets, parks, and squares. In an emergency, you can use the toilets in most hotels and restaurants, although generally they're reserved for patrons.