Hotels

Variation and innovation characterize St. Petersburg's hotel scene, in contrast to the overburdened and uneven offerings in Moscow. St. Petersburg's nicest and priciest hotels, and nearly all of the international chains, are clustered on upper Nevsky Prospekt. The huge Soviet-era hotel towers are farther from the center, and sometimes quite far from the metro. They offer better prices -- though everywhere prices are up in recent years for those paying in the weak U.S. dollar -- and their quality ranges from luxurious leather armchairs to saggy, stained mattresses. The best price-to-quality ratio is found in the numerous "mini-hotels" springing up around town. Don't be alarmed by some high prices -- those listed are the official "rack rates," but nearly everyone gets discounts by ordering online or through an agency.

The tourist season in St. Petersburg is much more pronounced than in Moscow, centering around the White Nights festivals in late June. Accommodations are at a premium from May to July, and reservations are essential. The rest of the year, particularly during the sleepy winter months, you'll have options and can often find deep discounts.

When choosing accommodations in St. Petersburg, bear in mind that it's a city of bridges that are drawn up in the wee hours to allow shipping traffic through. This means that if your late-night plans involve something on the other side of the Neva River from your hotel, you may be in for a long wait or a detour to get back.

Rates listed are rack rates, the highest official prices charged by hotels. Hotel websites often offer discounts or package deals, as do many traditional and online travel agencies. Prices are listed in U.S. dollars and do not include breakfast or 18% VAT unless noted; most travel agencies (online and traditional) do include VAT in their quotes.

Few Russian hotels offer car rentals, but most can arrange a car with a driver for a few hours or for the duration of your stay at a reasonable, sometimes negotiable price. The hotel's "transport desk" offers something between a taxi and a limo service.

Suites in Russia (called luxe or demi-luxe) nearly always have two rooms, though size varies broadly. In older hotels a double will usually mean two single beds, while newer hotels offer the choice of one double bed for two people, or two single beds. Single rooms and single rates are nearly always available, so be sure to ask about them if you're traveling alone.

Floor Monitors -- In a disconcerting holdover from the Soviet era, many older, larger hotels have a dezhurnaya, a sort of floor monitor, stationed outside the elevators who's charged with keeping track of everyone who lives on her floor. She (it's invariably a woman) knows when you come in and out, and with whom. Sometimes she's even in charge of your key: You leave it at her desk upon departure, then present a card upon your return to get it back. Don't let her presence intimidate you; in the post-Soviet world, her job is largely cleaning and maintenance coordinator. She can even be a source of help, making you a late-night cup of tea or finding you discount theater tickets.