Palkin

If you want to splurge just once in St. Petersburg, do it here. The original Palkin opened in 1785 and became a mecca for aristocrats and intellectuals; today's reincarnation opened in 2002 on the same spot, displacing the movie theater that had stood here for decades. The interior today is at least as sumptuous as in the decadent days of Catherine the Great. A century after Catherine's reign, Tchaikovsky, Chekhov, and Dostoyevsky enjoyed generous servings and lively debates at Palkin. Today, members of Russia's 21st-century elite make it a frequent stop, including friends of St. Petersburg native (and Russian former president and current prime minister) Vladimir Putin. Chefs research menus of past centuries, including wedding feasts for grand princes, to create dishes like sterlet baked in white wine with a sauce of cepes and crayfish. More standard fare includes a pot-au-feu of young chicken and vegetables cooked lightly enough to retain a rich flavor.

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