Akademiya

Though it can't seem to decide whether it's mass-market or elitist, Akademiya's food is consistently good. The place is not as stylish as the other restaurants on this corner (Restoran and Staraya Tamozhnya), but it's less expensive. The vaulted brick ceilings provide good acoustics during live music performances on weekends. The shelves along the walls hold a haphazard collection of books, but they appear to be more for show than for actual reading. Menu highlights include the pikeperch and the T-bone steak, a cut of meat you don't find often in Russia. The pungent "hangover cabbage stew" is an acquired taste, but its fans insist it does the trick after a vodka-drenched night. The restaurant is sometimes closed for private parties, so it's a good idea to call in advance even though reservations are not necessary.

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