Despite war damage, much remains of Old Strasbourg, including covered bridges and towers from its former fortifications, plus many 15th- and 17th-century dwellings with painted wooden fronts and carved beams.
The city's traffic hub is place Kléber, dating from the 15th century. Sit here with a tankard of Alsatian beer and get to know Strasbourg. The bronze statue in the center is of J. B. Kléber, born in Strasbourg in 1753; he became one of Napoleon's most noted generals and was buried under the monument. Apparently his presence offended the Nazis, who removed the statue in 1940. This Alsatian bronze was restored to its proper place in 1945.
From here, take rue des Grandes-Arcades southeast to place Gutenberg, one of the city's oldest squares. The central statue (1840) by David d'Angers is of Gutenberg, who perfected his printing press in Strasbourg in the winter of 1436 and 1437. The former town hall, now the Hôtel du Commerce, was built in 1582 and is one of the most significant Renaissance buildings in Alsace. The neighborhoods within a few blocks of the city's cathedral are loaded with medieval references and historical charm.
La Petite France is the most interesting quarter of Strasbourg. A virtual island, it's surrounded by scenic canals on four sides, and its 16th-century houses reflect in the waters of the Ill River. In "Little France," old roofs with gray tiles have sheltered families for ages, and the cross-beamed façades with roughly carved rafters are in typical Alsatian style. For a good view, walk along rue des Moulins, branching off from rue du Bain-aux-Plantes.
Exploring Strasbourg by Boat -- One of the most romantic ways to spend time in Strasbourg is to take an excursion on the Ill River from the Palais de Rohan. The 75-minute cruises cost 7.40€ ($9.60) for adults and 3.70€ ($4.80) for children. They include recorded commentary in six languages. From April to October, rides depart at 30-minute intervals daily between 9:30am and 9pm, May to September 9:30am to 10pm. Between December and March, departures are at 10:30am, 1pm, 2:30pm, and 4pm. For information, call Batorama, 15 rue de Nantes (tel. 03-88-84-13-13).
