Salar de Uyuni is quickly becoming one of Bolivia's star attractions. This eerie landscape is the largest salt lake in the world. To see the area, you have to travel on a guided tour that usually lasts for 4 days and 3 nights. There are no roads in these parts, so all the agencies use almost-antique Toyota Land Cruisers to transport you through the desert. The trip can be rough, especially on your bottom. But the desert landscape, with its volcanoes in the background and bizarre rock formations, is truly surreal. Some of the highlights of the trip include a stop at the salt lake itself; the oddly shaped Isla del Pescado, which is covered with cactuses; and the Laguna Colorado, with its red algae that attracts flamingoes. My favorite stop on the tour is the Sol de la Mañana, where you can see geysers, fumaroles, and mud boiling in the earth. It's called Sol de la Mañana because it's best seen early in the morning. At the Laguna Verde (in the farthest southwest corner of Bolivia), be sure to hold on tightly to your hat, because the wind here is vicious. The emerald green Laguna Verde sits right below the Lincancabur Volcano (5,835m/19,139 ft.) and makes for a fantastic photograph.
I only recommend this trip for people who are ready to rough it. The accommodations along the way are very basic (simple dorm-style rooms and rustic outhouses). Bring tons of warm clothing and a thick sleeping bag, because the temperature can drop below zero Celsius (32°F), and there's no heat.
The town of Uyuni is located at the lake's edge. The best hotel is Los Girasoles (tel. 0102/6933-323; www.girasoleshotel.com). Located at Calle Santa Cruz 155, the hotel boasts simple, clean rooms with private bathrooms, heating, and 24-hour hot water. Doubles cost $25 (£13) including breakfast. Another hotel to try is Magia de Uyuni (tel. 0102/6932-541), located on Avenida Colón between Sucre and Camacho. You'll pay $22 (£11) per night for a double with bathroom, including breakfast and electric heat.
Getting There -- The easiest way to get to Uyuni is to take a bus from Potosí. Buses leave daily at 11:30, 11:45am, and 6:30pm from the small bus terminal on Avenida Universitaria at the intersection of Sevilla. (They leave Uyuni for Potosí at 10am and 7pm.) The 5-hour ride costs Bs25 ($3.15/£1.60).
If you want a guided tour, it's not easy to find a reputable company. I suggest contacting Mariana Tours, Olaneta 101 A, Sucre; (tel. 0104/6429-329; mtours@cotes.net.bo); ask to speak to the manager, Rodrigo Garron, and he'll arrange the highest quality trip for you. Their tours are tailor-made to fit your needs and leave from either Sucre or Potosí. Another well-known operator is Andes Salt Expeditions, 3 Alonso de Ibanez, Potosí (tel. 0102/6225-175; www.andes-salt-uyuni.com.bo).
