Introduction to Sydney

Sunny, sexy, and sophisticated, Sydney (pop. 4.1 million) basks in its worldwide recognition as the shining star of the Southern Hemisphere -- the "Emerald City" is one of the most attractive on earth. Some people compare it to San Francisco -- it certainly has that relaxed feel -- but the gateway to Australia is very much its own unique metropolis.

Fortunately most of the interesting things in this huge city are concentrated in a relatively compact area around one of the finest urban harbors in the world.

First, of course, there's the Sydney Opera House, one of the most recognized buildings in the world. This white-sailed construction on Sydney Cove, designed by J?rn Utzon, is the pride of the city. Then there's that other great icon, the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Those with a daredevil spirit can join a BridgeClimb Sydney tour across catwalks and ladders to the top of the main arch for 360-degree views across the Opera House and the ferries and boats far below.

There are also over 20 beaches strung along the city's oceanfront and dozens more around the harbor; you'll be spoiled for choice. The most famous is Bondi, a strip of golden sand legendary for its Speedo-clad Lifesavers and surfboard riders. From here, a "must do" is the 3.2km (2-mile) coastal path that leads off across the cliff tops, via Tamarama Beach (dubbed "Glamourama" for its chic sun worshipers), to Bronte Beach, where you can cool down in the crashing waves.

Another beach favorite is Manly, a 30-minute ferry trip from Circular Quay. Pick up some fish and chips and head for the main beach, flanked by a row of giant pines that chatter with hundreds of colorful lorikeets at dusk.

The best time to return is in the early evening, when the lights of the skyscrapers around Circular Quay streak like rainbows across the water of the harbor, and the sails of the Opera House and the girders of the Harbour Bridge are lit up -- it's magical.

Back on the mainland, modern Sydney comes alive in the more recent developments around Darling Harbour and the nearby restaurant and entertainment areas in Cockle Bay and on King Street Wharf. You'll find the world-class Sydney Aquarium there, or you can start your gourmet tour of Sydney's Contemporary cooking style, which encompasses the best of freshness with spices from Asia and flavors from the Mediterranean. Add to this a few side trips to the gorges and cliffs of the Blue Mountains, the wineries of the Hunter Valley, and the dolphin- and whale-watching around Port Stephens, and you'll see why Sydney gets so much praise.

The frugal traveler will find that, compared to many other major international cities, Sydney offers good value. Food and public transport are cheap, and attractions are generally not prohibitively expensive. (Senior and student prices are almost always available with ID.) The price of a hotel room is far cheaper than in other major population centers such as New York and London.

Whichever way you look at it, there's so much to do in Sydney that you could easily spend a week here and still find yourself crashing into bed at night, exhausted from trying to see it all.