Restaurants

Sydney is a gourmet paradise, with an abundance of fresh seafood, a vast range of vegetables and fruit always in season, prime meats at inexpensive prices, and top-quality chefs making international names for themselves. Asian and Mediterranean cooking have had a major influence on Australian cuisine, with spices and herbs finding their way into most dishes. Immigration has brought with it almost every type of cuisine, from African to Tibetan, from Russian to Vietnamese. Some areas of the city are dedicated to one type of food, while other areas are melting pots of styles.

Sydney is a great place to try Contemporary, or "Mod Oz," cuisine, which has been applauded by chefs and food critics around the world. Contemporary cuisine emphasizes fresh ingredients and a creative blend of European styles with Asian influences. (Some foodies complain that some restaurants use the label "Contemporary" as an excuse to serve skimpy portions -- like one lamb chop atop a tiny mound of mashed potatoes sprinkled with curry sauce.) At its best, Contemporary food is world-class, but you'll probably have to go to the best of Sydney's restaurants to see what the scene is all about.

Australians think American-style coffee tastes like ditch water and favor a range of Italian-style coffee creations. Ask for a latte if you just want coffee with milk. "Bottomless" cups of coffee are rare in Australia. By the way, in Australia, the first course is called the entree and the second course the main.

I've included the websites of some of the top-class restaurants as you would be advised to reserve well in advance if you want a table.

A Great Place for Picnic Grub -- If you're looking for something to take with you on a harbor cruise or on a stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens, you can't go wrong with Quay Deli, E5 Alfred St., next to the pharmacy under the Circular Quay CityRail station, facing the road (tel. 02/9241 3571). You'll find all sorts of goodies, including gourmet sandwiches and takeout foods such as olives, Greek dishes, pasta, salads, meat pies, and the best English-style custard tarts around. Everything is fresh and tasty. Lunch items go for A$1.80 to A$4.50 (US$1.45-US$3.60/UK70p-UK£1.80). It's open Monday through Friday from 5am to 6:45pm, Saturday from 9am to 4pm. No credit cards.

What to Know about BYO -- Most moderate and inexpensive restaurants in Sydney are BYO, as in "bring your own" bottle, though some places also have extensive wine and beer lists. More moderately priced restaurants are introducing corkage fees, which mean you pay anywhere from A$2 to A$8 (US$1.60-US$6.40/UK80p-UK£3.20) per person for the privilege of the waiter opening your bottle of wine. Very expensive restaurants discourage BYO.

Sydney's cheap eats congregate in inner-city areas such as along King Street in Newtown, Crown Street in Darlinghurst, and Glebe Point Road in Glebe. There are also inexpensive joints scattered among the more upscale restaurants in Kings Cross and along trendy Oxford Street.

I would avoid the takeout booths along the ferry wharves at Circular Quay. The fish-and-chip shop opposite the "bottle shop" (liquor store) is an exception -- it serves some of the best french fries in Sydney.

Smoking is banned in all Sydney restaurants, except if you're eating at a sidewalk table.

Neighborhoods

Paddington -- The top end of Oxford Street, which runs from Hyde Park in central Sydney toward Bondi, has a profusion of trendy bars and cafes and a scattering of cheaper eateries among the more glamorous ones.

In Newtown: Great Ethnic Eats -- Inner-city Newtown is three stops from Central Station on CityRail, and 10 minutes by bus from central Sydney. On Newtown's main drag, King Street, many inexpensive restaurants offer food from all over the world.

Manly -- Manly is 30 minutes from Circular Quay by ferry, or 15 minutes by JetCat. The takeout shops that line the Corso, as well as the pedestrian mall that runs between the ferry terminal and the main Manly Beach, offer everything from Turkish kabobs to Japanese noodles. There are better restaurants along the seafront (though there's a road between them and the beach). All are pretty good, so just take a lunchtime walk, check out their blackboard menus, and take a seat if something takes your fancy.

Cafe Culture

Debate rages over which cafe serves the best coffee in Sydney, which has the best atmosphere, and which has the tastiest snacks. The main cafe scenes center on Victoria Street in Darlinghurst, Stanley Street in East Sydney, and King Street in Newtown. Other places, including Balmoral Beach on the North Shore, Bondi Beach, and Paddington all have their own favored hangouts.

Note: Americans will be sorry to learn that, unlike in the States, free refills of coffee are rare in Australian restaurants and cafes. Sip slowly. Expect a cup of coffee to cost A$2.50 to A$3 (US$2-US$2.40/UK£1-UK£1.40); main courses run A$8 to A$15 (US$6.40-US$12/UK£3.20-UK£6).