Ortygia, inhabited for many thousands of years, is also called the Città Vecchia (Old City). It contains the town's Duomo, many rows of houses spanning 500 years of building styles, most of the city's medieval and baroque monuments, and some of the most charming vistas in Sicily. In Greek mythology, it's said that it was ruled by Calypso, daughter of Atlas, the sea nymph who detained Ulysses (Odysseus) for 7 years. The island, reached by crossing the Ponte Nuova, is about a mile long and half again as wide. Take bus no. 21 or 23 to get here.
Heading out the Foro Italico, you'll come to the Fonte Arethusa, also famous in mythology. The river god Alpheius, son of Oceanus, is said to have fallen in love with the sea nymph Arethusa. The nymph turned into this spring or fountain, but Alpheius became a river and "mingled" with his love. According to legend, the spring ran red when bulls were sacrificed at Olympus.
At Piazza del Duomo, the Duomo of Syracuse, reached by heading down Via Minerva from Piazza Archimede, illustrates more than any other structure in town the changing colonizations and architectural styles that have dominated the city over the centuries. The present cathedral incorporates architectural fragments from a 5th-century-B.C. temple honoring Athena. In its heyday, this Greek temple was spoken of in revered tones by the people of the Mediterranean. From miles away, sailors could see the golden statue of Athena shining like a beacon. Twenty-six of the temple's Doric columns are still in place. In 1693, an earthquake caused the cathedral's facade to collapse, and in the 18th century structure was rebuilt in the baroque style.
Once inside, look in the first bay on the right for a beautiful font fashioned from a Greek marble krater. It is held up by seven stunning 13th-century wrought-iron lions. The Duomo is also rich in statues adorning its chapels, including one honoring patron saint Lucia. Entry to the Duomo is free; it's open daily from 8am to noon and 4 to 7pm.
The irregular Piazza del Duomo is especially majestic when the facade of the cathedral is dramatically caught by the setting sun or when floodlit at night. Acclaimed as one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, it's filled with fine baroque buildings. They include the striking Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, with its lovely courtyard, and the Palazzo del Senato, with an inner courtyard displaying a senator's carriage from the 1700s. At the far end of the square stands another church, Santa Lucia.
The other important landmark square is Piazza Archimede, with its baroque fountain festooned with dancing jets and sea nymphs. This square is directly northeast of Piazza del Duomo, forming the monumental heart of Ortygia. It, not the cathedral square, is the main piazza of the old city. Original Gothic windows grace the 15th-century Palazzo Lanza here. As you move about Ortygia, you'll find that Piazza Archimede is a fine place from which to orient yourself. Wander the narrow streets wherever your feet will take you, and when you get lost, ask for directions back to Piazza Archimede.
