Introduction to Tabasco and Chiapas

Even though these two states aren't part of the Yucatán, we've included them so that we can present Mexico's entire Maya region. Many travelers who go to the Yucatán to see Chichén Itzá and Uxmal also take a side trip to Chiapas to see the famous ruins of Palenque. Some go even farther, all the way to San Cristóbal, to visit the highland Maya.

If you have the time, you might even want to make this part of Mexico the object of a separate trip. First, there's a lot to see and do; second, much of it is best appreciated at a leisurely pace; and third, transportation in, out, and through the area is a bit problematic -- not the kind of challenge you want to take on with a tight schedule.

Tabasco and Chiapas feel different from the Yucatán. The lowland jungle of most of Tabasco and eastern Chiapas is thicker, with a taller canopy. It rains a lot more here, and the rivers, some of the largest in Mexico, are wide and flowing. The mountainous central highlands of Chiapas are cool and wet, and the mountain air feels refreshing after you've experienced the heat and humidity of the lowlands. This part of Chiapas has striking mountain vistas, deep canyons, and isolated cloud forests.

Tabasco is a small, oil-rich state along the Gulf coast. The capital, Villahermosa, has a definite boomtown feel, but it also has a past. People have inhabited this coastal jungle for millennia. It is the homeland of the Olmec, the mother-culture of Mesoamerica. The Olmec were the first to develop a large-scale civilization in Mexico. At the Parque-Museo La Venta, in Villahermosa, you can see some artifacts that they left to posterity, including the famous megalithic heads.

Chiapas has much that is interesting, but perhaps the most important areas to visit are the eastern lowland jungles and the central highlands. In the former lie the famous ruins of Palenque, a city that dates from the Classic age of Maya civilization. The ruins look unspeakably old, and the surrounding jungle seems poised to reclaim them, should their caretakers ever falter in their duties. Deeper into the interior are the sites of Yaxchilán and Bonampak. The central highlands are just as dramatic but easier to enjoy. Of particular interest is the colonial city of San Cristóbal de las Casas, with its surrounding Indian villages. The Indians here cling so tenaciously to their beliefs and traditions that for awhile this area was more popular with anthropologists than tourists.

Fifteen years ago, Chiapas made international news when the Zapatista Liberation Army launched an armed rebellion and captured San Cristóbal. This forced the Mexican government to recognize the existence of social and economic disparities in Chiapas. Negotiations achieved minor results, and then stalled. Political violence erupted again in the winter of 1997 and 1998. But no foreigners were attacked, and no restrictions were ever placed on travel to Palenque or the San Cristóbal region. Since then, especially in the last couple of years, the Zapatista movement has dropped the talk about armed insurrection in an effort to broaden its base as a political movement.