The South Coast of Tahiti Nui

As you leave Taravao, heading back to Papeete along Tahiti's south coast, note that the PK markers begin to decrease the nearer you get to Papeete. The road rims casuarina-ringed Port Phaeton, which cuts nearly halfway across the isthmus. Port Phaeton and the Bay of Tapueraha to the south are Tahiti's finest harbors, yet European settlement and most development have taken place on the opposite side of the island, around Papeete. The shrimp you'll order for dinner come from the aqua farms in the bay's shallow waters.

Papaeari -- At PK 52 stands Tahiti's oldest village. Apparently the island's initial residents recognized the advantages of the south coast and its deep lagoons and harbors, for word-of-mouth history says they came through the Hotumatuu Pass in the reef and settled at Papeari sometime between A.D. 400 and 500. Robert Keable, author of Simon Called Peter, a best-selling novel about a disillusioned clergyman, lived here from 1924 until he died in 1928 at the age of 40. His home, now a private residence, stands at PK 55. Today Papeari is a thriving village whose residents often sell fruits and vegetables at stands along the road.

Musée Gauguin (Gauguin Museum) -- At PK 51.2 is the entrance to the museum/memorial to Paul Gauguin, who lived near here from 1891 until 1893. The museum sits in the lush Harrison W. Smith Botanical Gardens, started in 1919 by American Harrison Smith. The museum and gardens are open daily from 9am to 5pm. There's a snack bar here, but your best bet is to continue west.

Take a Break -- The circle island tour buses deposit their passengers for lunch at the lagoonside Restaurant du Musée Gauguin, at PK 50.5 (tel. 57.13.80), which is worth a stop just for its phenomenal view of Tahiti Iti. The lunch buffet costs about 2,650CFP (US$27) per person Monday through Saturday, 3,500CFP (US$35) on Sunday; sandwiches are also available. Open daily from noon to 3pm. A less expensive option is Beach Burger, at PK 39 (tel. 57.41.03), west of the golf course at Atimaono. In addition to burgers, it offers salads, steaks, Chinese fare, and pizzas. Open Sunday through Thursday from 6am to 8pm, Friday and Saturday from 6am to 9:30pm.

Vaihiria River and Vaipahi Gardens -- At PK 48, in the village of Mataiea, the main road crosses the Vaihiria River. The new cross-island road from Papenoo on the north coast terminates here. An 11km (7.3-mile) track leads to Lake Vaihiria, at 465m (1,550 ft.) above sea level. It is Tahiti's only lake and is noted for its freshwater eels. Cliffs up to 900m (3,000 ft.) tall drop to the lake on its north side. Also in Mataiea is the lush Jardin Vaipehi (Vaipehi Gardens), a cool and refreshing spot with an oft-photographed waterfall and a bubbling natural spring. The garden is lush with elephant ears, tree ferns, ground orchids, jade vines, and other tropical vegetation. A planned renovation project is to emphasize its historical importance, since ancient Tahitian nobles followed the path to the springs in order to be spiritually purified.

Atimaono -- At PK 41 begins the largest parcel of flat land on Tahiti, site of Atimaono Golf Course, French Polynesia's only links. Irishman William Stewart started a cotton plantation here during the American Civil War. Nothing remains of the plantation, but it was Stewart who brought the first Chinese indentured servants to Tahiti.

Dorence Atwater's Grave -- At PK 36, on the lagoon side of the road in Papara village, stands a Protestant church, under whose paved yard is buried Dorence Atwater, American consul to Tahiti after the Civil War. Captured while serving in the Union Army, Atwater was assigned to the hospital at the infamous Confederate prisoner-of-war camp at Andersonville, Ga., where he surreptitiously recorded the names of Union soldiers who died in captivity. He later escaped and brought his lists to the federal government, thus proving that the Confederacy was keeping inaccurate records. His action made him a hero in the eyes of the Union Army. He eventually moved to the south coast of Tahiti, married a daughter of a chief of the Papara district, and at one time invested in William Stewart's cotton venture.

Maraa Grotto -- At PK 28.5, on Tahiti's southwest corner, the road turns sharply around the base of a series of headlands, which drop precipitously to the lagoon. Deep into one of these cliffs goes the Maraa Grotto, also called the Paroa Cave. It's actually two caves, both with water inside, and they go much deeper into the hill than appears at first glance. Park in the lot, not along the road, and enter at the gazebo to reach the larger of the two caves. A short trail leads from there to the smaller cave and a miniwaterfall.