Reserve well ahead for visits between Christmas and February. Once the peak season is over, you can expect to get some incredibly good deals. There are numerous motel complexes along the waterfront; and backpackers are well served in Te Anau. One of the nicest is Te Anau Backpackers Lodge, 48 Lakefront Dr. (tel. 0800/200-074 in NZ, or 03/249-7713; www.teanaubackpackers.co.nz), where dorm beds are from NZ$25 (US$18/£9) and doubles cost NZ$75 (US$53/£27).
Moderate -- Blue Ridge Boutique, 13-15 Melland Place (tel. 03/249-7740; fax 03/249-7340; www.blueridge.net.nz), has four sunny rooms with mountain views, en-suite bathrooms, big beds, and kitchenettes. Breakfast is included in the very reasonable NZ$225-NZ$275 (US$160-US$196/£81-£99) price. The old-world charms of Te Anau Lodge, 52 Howden St. (tel. 03/249-7477; www.teanaulodge.com), are also worthy of your attention. Originally a convent, this grand old building has been relocated to a new garden and restored to offer eight rooms -- seven with en-suite bathrooms, for NZ$200 to NZ$350 (US$142-US$248/£72-£126).