Nightlife

No matter what season, Tel Aviv throbs with activity after sundown. Strollers are out on the boulevards, people-watchers crowd the cafes, clubs and discos throb and crash, and restaurants are packed.

The most popular form of nighttime entertainment in Tel Aviv is to stroll around and people-watch. Two areas that are traditionally devoted to this pastime are Dizengoff Street and the Herbert Samuel Esplanade-Ha-Tayelet -- which runs along the sandy beach. Outdoor cafe life on Dizengoff Street starts near Dizengoff Square and works northward. The scene is pretty packed most nights, but its real crescendo is reached on Saturday nights after the cinemas let out. Pick out a seat at one of the sidewalk cafes and order a coffee, or, if it's hot, cool off with a coffee ice-cream soda (one of the most popular Israeli drinks) or tasty apple cider.

To find out what's going on in the city, buy the Jerusalem Post Friday-morning edition, which contains the weekend magazine that lists everything there is to do and see and an additional, informative "In Tel Aviv" section. Also pick up Events in the Tel Aviv Region and other free tourist publications from the travel desk of your hotel (or check out the Sheraton's well-stocked information shelves just to the left of the main entrance).

In addition to these listings, Hayarkon Park (tel. 03/642-2828), at the northern edge of Tel Aviv, hosts large outdoor concerts; there are also concerts in Hayarkon Park's Wohl Amphitheater (tel. 03/521-8210).

The Performing Arts

While Jerusalem has many cultural offerings, Tel Aviv is the true cultural center of Israel. Mann Auditorium is the home of the Israel Philharmonic, and there are many other musical groups. The Israel Ballet is also centered in Tel Aviv. Major ticket outlets are Le'an, 101 Dizengoff St. (tel. 03/524-7373); Hadran, 90 Ibn Givrol St. (tel. 03/527-9955); and Castel, 153 Ibn Givrol St. (tel. 03/604-4725).

The Club Scene

Tel Aviv and Jaffa are the nightlife centers of Israel. Their clubs have been the breeding ground for almost all Israeli singers who have gone on to international careers. The scene, especially the disco scene, changes so frequently, that only the few long-term landmarks are listed here. Some discos are on rather tacky-looking streets, but that's no indication they'll be cheap; the atmosphere can be very different inside. Nothing starts before midnight; most places are open daily.

Bars, Pubs & Wine Bars

Singers and pianists appear nightly at the bars in the major five-star hotels such as the Dan, Hilton, Ramada, Sheraton, and Sheraton Moriah.

Gay & Lesbian Bars/Meeting Places

Independence Park, in front of and beside the Tel Aviv Hilton on Ha-Yarkon Street, is a major cruising and gay pickup place, nicely landscaped and relatively safe. Hilton Beach, behind the Hilton hotel, is a mixed place with families, tourists, surfers and some amount of beachfront cruising as well. Avoid the very seedy and dangerous (now disused) Old Tel Aviv Bus Station area. The English-language edition of Time Out Tel Aviv, available in many hotels, will have a current list of the ever-changing party scene. Each year, Tel Aviv hosts the most famous Gay Pride Parade in the Middle East. Check websites, such as Aguda (www.aguda-ta.org.il/tourism.php), for scheduled times.

Film

Tel Aviv has at least two dozen cinema houses; the international film scene is lively and popular. English and American films aren't dubbed, as they are in Europe, so you can sit back and enjoy the English soundtrack; otherwise check to see if foreign-language films include English subtitles. Tickets run from NIS 40 to NIS 50 ($10-$13/£5-£6.25). The commercial shorts that accompany many films are fascinating.