Frommer's Review
Chef Nir Zook, who created every detail of Cordelia's unique design and menu, is a master of taking risks. At night, the darkened dining room is lit by candelabras and chandeliers whose lights reflect and re-reflect in mirrors, windows and wine goblets. The decor balances between romantic and Gothic without quite going off the edge, and fits perfectly with the restaurant's 1,000-year-old Crusader-era building. The ever-changing menu is food as theater, designed to surprise and amaze. A beautiful, creamy pate of goose liver comes to the table in the shape of a stick of butter encrusted with black sesame seeds so that it looks like a bar of chocolate halvah covered with chocolate sprinkles. Even an innocent cream of eggplant and dill soup is so filled with flavor it will stop normal conversation. Main courses might range from the luxurious textures of shrimp and "St. Jacques porcini" to an interesting beef Wellington to tender foie gras ravioli, or smoked salmon in grape sauce. Highly praised is a fusion dish with slices of rare beef filet and steamed grape leaves on jasmine rice flavored with coarse salt and sumac. Desserts spin out into charming fantasies (one choice was a "fig orgy" guaranteed to leave diners breathless), or are variations on classics, such as the chef's own chocolate marquise. There are fine intermediate courses of sorbets and soft goat cheeses made by the chef's brother. Add a star if you're up for adventure!
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