Restaurants

El Chalchi restaurant at the Hotel Nilayam offers some of the best vegetarian fare in the area. It's 3 blocks from the main square, with main courses priced around $6 (£3.30).

Tepoznieves: A Taste of Heaven -- Don't leave town without a stop at Tepoznieves, Av. 5 de Mayo 21 (tel. 739/395-3813), the sublime local ice-cream shop. The store's slogan, "nieve de dioses" (ice cream of the gods), doesn't exaggerate. Almost 200 types of ice cream and sorbet, made only with natural ingredients, come in flavors familiar (vanilla, bubble gum), exotic (tamarind, rose petal, mango studded with chile piquin), and off-the-wall (beet, lettuce, corn). It's open daily 8am to 9pm.