Attractions

Exploring Tepoztlan

Tepoztlán's weekend folkloric market is one of the best in central Mexico. More crafts are available on Saturdays and Sundays, but the market also opens on Wednesdays. Vendors sell all kinds of ceramics, from simple fired-clay works resembling those made with pre-Hispanic techniques, to the more commercial versions of majolica and pseudo-Talavera. There are also puppets, carved-wood figures, and some textiles, especially thick wool Mexican sweaters and jackets made out of jerga (a coarse cloth). Very popular currently is the "hippie"-style jewelry that earned Tepoztlán its fame in the '60s and '70s. The market is also remarkable for its variety of food stands selling fruits and vegetables, spices, fresh tortillas, and indigenous Mexican delicacies.

The other primary activity is hiking up to Tepozteco pyramid. The climb is steep and fairly strenuous, although perfectly doable in a few hours and not dangerous. In fact, you'll see folks across three generations doing the hike. Dense vegetation shades the trail (actually a long natural staircase), which is beautiful from bottom to top. Once you arrive at the pyramid you are treated to remarkable views and, if you are lucky, a great show by a family of coatis (tropical raccoons), who visit the pyramid most mornings to beg for food; they especially love bananas. The pyramid is a Tlahuica construction that predates the Náhuatl (Aztec) domination of the area. It was the site of important celebrations in the 12th and 13th centuries. The main street in Tepoztlán, Avenida 5 de Mayo, takes you to the path that leads you to the top of the Tepozteco. The 2km winding rock trail begins where the name of Avenida 5 de Mayo changes to Camino del Tepozteco. The hike takes about an hour each way, but if you stop and take in the scenery and really enjoy the trail, it can take up to 2 hours each way. Water and drinks are available at the top. The trail is open daily from 9am to 5:30pm and, while the hike is free, the pyramid costs $3 (£1.50) to enter.

Also worth visiting is the former convent Dominico de la Navidad. The entrance to the Dominican convent lies through the religious-themed "Gate of Tepoztlán," constructed with beads and seeds, just east of the main plaza. Built between 1560 and 1588, the convent is now a museum, open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 6pm; it $1 (50p) to enter.

Sights Near Tepoztlan

Many nearby places are easily accessible by car. One good tour service is Marquez Sightseeing Tours, located in Cuernavaca (tel. 777/315-5875; www.tourbymexico.com/marqueztours). Marquez has four- and seven-passenger vehicles, very reasonable prices, and a large variety of set tours. The dependable owner, Arturo Marquez Diaz, speaks better-than-passable English and will allow you to design your own tour, including to archeological sites and museums. He also offers transportation to and from Mexico City airport for approximately $200 (£100).

Two tiny, charming villages, Santo Domingo Xocotitlán and Amatlán, are only a 20-minute drive from Tepoztlán and can be reached by minibuses, which depart regularly from the center of town. There is nothing much to do in these places except wander around absorbing the marvelous views of the Tepozteco Mountains and drinking in the magical ambience.

Las Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, the Cacahuamilpa Caves or Grottoes, are an unforgettable system of caverns with a wooden illuminated walkway for easy access. As you pass from chamber to chamber you'll see spectacular illuminated rock formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and twisted rock formations with names like Dante's head, the champagne bottle, the tortillas, and Madonna with child. Admission for 2 hours is $5 (£2.50); a guide for groups, which can be assembled on the hour, costs about $10 (£5). The caverns are open daily from 10am to 7pm (last tickets sold at 5pm), and lie 90 minutes from Tepoztlán and 30 minutes from Taxco.

About 50 minutes southeast of Tepoztlán is Las Estacas, an ecological resort with a cold-water spring that is said to have curative powers. The ruins of Xochicalco and the colonial town of Taxco (earlier in this chapter) are easily accessible from Tepoztlán.

Cooking Classes in Tepoztlán

An engaging cooking school called Cocinar Mexicano offers weeklong programs in Mexican cuisine. The founder, Magda Bogin, conducts class from her large, sunny outdoor kitchen, tiled in blue-and-white Talavera. Participants study recipes typical of the festival that coincides with their visit. During the Day of the Dead workshop, for example, students learn to make tamales, the traditional dish that families bring to the gravesites of deceased love ones. For other festivals, the focus is mole, a typical fiesta food often made with chocolate and chiles that's arguably the most complex dish in Mexican cuisine. All the programs include a range of contemporary dishes, and participants spend a day of fine dining in Mexico City, where they meet with the country's top chefs. Prices range from $2,495 to $2,895 (£1,248-£1,448) depending on the duration of the workshop, which includes round-trip transportation from Mexico City and most meals but not airfare or accommodations. Frommer's readers receive a $100 (£50) discount. For more information, visit www.cocinarmexicano.com.