Side Trips

Lopburi

77km (48 miles) N of Ayutthaya; 153km (95 miles) N of Bangkok; 224km (139 miles) S of Phitsanulok

Lopburi is as famous for its 14th to 17th century temple ruins, as much as for its sometimes very aggressive troupes of monkeys that call them home. The town hosted kings and emissaries from around the world some 400 years ago, and archaeological evidence suggests a highly developed Buddhist society was here as early as the 11th century. These days, Lopburi is a popular day trip from Ayutthaya or a good stopover on the way north.

Getting There -- Lopburi is along Highway 1 just past Saraburi (connect with Lopburi via Hwy. 3196 to Rte. 311). The fastest way to go straight there from Bangkok is by minivan from Victory Monument (accessible by BTS) for 100B (US$2.85/£1.55). Vans leave from in front of Rachavithee Hospital. Regular buses connect to Lopburi via Ayutthaya from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (tel. 02936-2841) for the same price. Numerous trains make daily connection with Lopburi via Ayutthaya from Bangkok's Hua Lampong Railway Station (tel. 1690), from 138B (US$3.95/£2.10) upwards.

Information & Orientation -- The TAT Office is located in a teak house built in the 1930s just a short walk from the train station (follow the signs) on Rop Wat Phra That Road (tel. 03642-2768). They have a useful map and can point you to sites within walking distance.

What to & See -- Do Lopburi in a clockwise circle. From the train station, stop in to Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat just out front. Built in 1257, Mahathat is a stunning ruin much like the temples of Ayutthaya (entrance 30B/85¢/45p; daily 7am-5pm). On a small side street just north of the temple, is the TAT office.

Directly west of the TAT, the large complex of King Narai's Palace was built in 1666 and combines a large museum of Lopburi antiquities with the wats and palace of the king. When nearby Ayutthaya was little more than a marsh, King Narai hosted emissaries from around the world (note the many Islamic-style doorways). The museum now houses displays of Thai rural life and traditions from weaving and agriculture to shadow puppetry (admission 30B/85¢/45p; daily 8am-5pm).

Exiting Narai's palace, head north through the town's small streets and market areas to Wat Sao Thong Thong, which houses a large golden Buddha and fine Khmer and Ayutthaya period statues. Farther north brings you to Ban Vichayen, the manicured ruins of the fine housing built for visiting dignitaries (admission 30B/85¢/45p; Wed-Sun 7am-5pm).

Going east along Vichayen Road toward the town center, the three connected towers at Phra Prang Sam Yot are a stunning example of the Khmer influence in what is known as "Lopburi style." This is the site where you'll find the town's famous macaques (monkeys) most hours of the day (admission 30B/85¢/45p; Wed-Sun; 7am-5pm). Be careful around these mischievous apes: They have been known to get aggressive and can be very dangerous. You can take pictures, but don't carry any food.

Reaching Prang Sam Yot brings you full-circle back to the train tracks just north of the station. If you're in Lopburi in late spring, ask about the occasional macaque banquets, where a formal table is set for the little beasts who tear it to bits -- they've no manners at all. Most days they are fed at a temple just east of Sam Yot, called San Phra Khan (across the train tracks). Groups of the mischievous animals trapeze along the high wires and swoop down on shop owners armed with sticks, who keep a close eye on outdoor merchandise. It's a different kind of rush hour altogether.

Where to Stay & Dine -- Few stay in little Lopburi, instead making it a day trip from Ayutthaya or a brief stopover on the way to points north. If you do choose to stay here, try the Lopburi Inn (28/9 Naraimaharat Rd.; tel. 03641-2300) with rooms from 600B (US$17/£9.25) with A/C, TV, and breakfast.

There are lots of small open-air restaurants in and around town. One of the best options is the friendly, air-conditioned Taisawan Vietnamese Food (11/8 Sorasak Rd.; tel. 03641-1881), just southeast of the main entrance to King Narai's Palace. Signature Vietnamese dishes such as bun hoi, noodles and pork, or shrimp kebabs start at just 60B (US$1.45/90p).