In Depth

The Thai People--Although Bangkok at rush hour feels packed, most of Thailand's 64 million people live in the countryside or in rural villages where they earn a living in agriculture, predominantly rice farming. Under economic strain, rural populations are migrating to the city and, while statistics are unreliable, most estimates (all but the official count of 6 million) put Bangkok's population well past the 10 million mark as a result of the rural influx. Hierarchical Bangkok is divided between native Bangkok Thais, who are educated, often bi-lingual and hold more prestigious positions, and up-country workers, mostly uneducated, speak in rural dialect and have settled here for jobs. It's an important distinction to Thais, who inherited a loose version of the caste system of Indian, the Thai cultural ancestor. Today's Thai can meet a person, instantly size him up, and know precisely how to treat them according to their relationship within the hierarchy. Interestingly, as a foreigner, you are automatically awarded a position of stature, regardless of your social standing back home.

So, who exactly are the Thai people? It's hard to say. There really are no historically ethnic Thais. Today's Thai people (about 75% of the population) are a hodgepodge from waves of immigrants over the past 10 or so centuries. "A Look at the Past," below, explains these waves in greater detail, but by in large the main bloodline is infused with indigenous people from the Bronze Age, southern Chinese tribes, Mons from Burma, Khmers from Cambodia, Malays, Arabs, and Europeans, plus more recent immigrants from China, Laos, Cambodia, and Myanmar (Burma). Although central Thailand is a true melting pot, you'll find southern Thais have a closer ancestral affinity with Malays, while Thais in the north are more closely related to the Chinese Hilltribes and Burmese people, and likewise in Isan in the northeast, where people trace their heritage to the Lao people. The remaining 25% are divided between Chinese (14%), and Indians, Malays, Karen, Khmer, and Mon (11%).

Statistics aside, the Thai people you will meet throughout the kingdom are a warm and welcoming lot. Locals delight in any foreigner who takes an interest in their heritage, learns a little bit of the language, eats spicy food, and appreciates Thai customs. Above all, the Thai people have an incredible sense of humor. A light spirit and a hearty chuckle go a long way.

Etiquette -- Thai customs can be a bit confusing and foreigners are not expected to know and follow local etiquette to the letter (in fact it would be odd), but a few small gestures and a general awareness goes a long way to foster a spirit of good will and Thais appreciate our efforts. First-time visitors are sure to make a few laughable mistakes, but read below carefully in order to avoid the more offensive faux pas.

Thais greet each other with a graceful bow called a wai. With hands pressed together, the higher they are held, the greater the show of respect. Younger people are always expected to wai an elder first, who will almost always return the gesture. Foreigners are more or less exempt from this custom, as the cultural subtleties are difficult to grasp. In hotels, doormen, bellhops, and waitresses will frequently wai to you. Please do not feel compelled to return the greeting; a simple smile of acknowledgment is all that's necessary (otherwise, you'll be bowing all over town). In situations where a wai is appropriate, like when meeting a person of obvious status, don't fret about the position of your hands. To keep them level to your chest is perfectly acceptable. Two exceptions -- never wai to a child, and never expect a monk to wai back (they are exempted from the custom).

One of the most important points of Thai etiquette you should remember is that Thais practice, and expect, a certain level of equanimity, calm and light-heartedness in personal relations. If you are prone to temper, aggravation, and frustration, Thailand can be a challenge of restraint. Anger and confrontational behavior, especially from foreign visitors, is greeted with blank stares. The Thais don't just think such outbursts are rude but an indication of a lesser-developed human being. Getting angry and upset is in essence "losing face" by acting shamefully in front of others and Thai people will do anything to spare themselves the embarrassment (in other words, walk away). Travelers who throw fits often find themselves abandoned by the very people who could help.

So what do you do if you encounter a frustrating situation? The Thai philosophy says, "Mai pen rai," or, "Never mind, no worries." If it's a situation you can't control, like a traffic jam or a delayed flight -- mai pen rai. If you find yourself at logger-heads with the front desk, arguing with a taxi driver or in any other truly frustrating situation, keep calm, try a little humor, and find a non-confrontational, compromising solution that will save face for all involved. The old "catching flies with honey" trick goes a long way in these parts.

The Thais hold two things sacred: their religion and their royal family. In temples and royal palaces, dress with respect -- choose long pants or skirts with a neat shirt, and avoid sleeveless tops. Remove your shoes before entering temple buildings if it is the custom (always indicated at entry) and give worshippers their space. Be mindful of your feet -- sit with your legs curled beside you, never in front pointing at the Buddha image. While photographing images is allowed, do not climb on any image or pose near it in a way that can be seen as showing disrespect. Women should be especially cautious around monks, who are not allowed to touch members of the opposite gender. If a woman needs to hand something to a monk, she should either hand it to a man to give to the monk, or place the item in front of him. Important: Never, ever, say anything critical or improper about the royal family, not even in jest.

To an outside observer, Thai society can seem very liberal, but in fact the opposite is true. You'll notice that, with some exceptions, the Thais dress very conservatively. If you're not sure what to wear, look around you. Young Bangkokians dress like in any big city in the world, guys in shorts or baggy pants and cut-off shirts, girls in hip-huggers, or postage stamp mini-skirts and bare mid-drifts or whatever is in fashion, but elsewhere, and certainly among older Thais, covering neck to ankles is more the rule. While you'll see some foreign women sunbathing topless at beach resorts, it is never accepted, merely tolerated and even shirtlessness among foreign men anywhere but the beach is unacceptable really (but of course tolerated, mai pen rai).

Times are changing, but Thais commonly avoid public displays of affection. While members of the same gender often hold hands and walk arm in arm as friends, even the lads, you'll rarely see a Thai couple acting this way. Some Thai women who date foreign men will bend the rules, and you'll see some affectionate younger couples, but as a rule of thumb for couples: don't hold hands, hug, or kiss in public.

Here's the most innocent of insults, but one that most Westerners have a hard time getting used to: Don't use your feet to point at anything or to indicate anything ever. Especially do not point them at a person, or at a Buddha image. Buddhists believe the feet are the lowest part of the body -- such gestures are unbelievably insulting.

In contrast, the head is considered the most sacred part of the body. Don't touch a Thai on the head, tousle a child's hair, or give that friendly pat on the back or shoulders. Even barbers have to ask permission to touch a customer's crown.