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What's New

Even with rising prices and the volatile baht, Thailand still provides great value; its diverse destinations make it perfect for young people, honeymooners, or those in search of family fun. A decade after the Asian economic crisis and a few years since the tsunami of December 2004, the country has bounced back with sparkling malls, modern high-rises, and ongoing improvements to its metropolitan infrastructure. Bangkok, in particular, is fast losing its crusty, 1970s neo-shophouses in favor of glistening glass towers. New malls boast vast designer stores, plush cinemas, and a sophisticated array of eateries. Though the average Thai cannot hope to afford these luxuries, they point to the emergence of a new, educated, middle class in the country.

It's now a lot easier to travel around Thailand as well. Since 2005, regional budget airlines such as Air Asia and Jet Star, together with Thailand's One-Two-GO and Nok Air, have made low-cost, inter-regional travel in the country a reality. Smaller companies like SGA, PB Air, and Destination Air now operate short-hop air links using light aircraft, and Thailand's Bangkok Airways is rapidly expanding its presence across Asia.

Unfortunately, rampant development here is often accompanied by environmental devastation. In Thailand, ecological ignorance, along with rabid commercial gain, poor or little-enforced regulation, and corruption, has seriously impacted hitherto unspoiled places. The once charming city center of Chiang Mai suffers from not just acute pollution, but also seasonal flooding and deadly smoke haze in dry season. On the southern coast and on resort islands, luxury villa and condominium developments are devouring the last of the prime beachfront land. As a result, places like Koh Samui are facing problems with water shortages, trash disposal, and wastewater. Thankfully, some authorities are taking eco-friendly measures -- Krabi province has banned noisy jet skis, for instance, and Pattaya is taking small steps to overcome unregulated construction.

The kingdom still offers plenty of rural charm as well as glamorous, urban sophistication, though. Bangkok's five-star international hotels are now busy opening new properties in the northern cities and eastern coastal resort towns, and they offer a growing range of activities. Hotel renovations have brought the installation of broadband or Wi-Fi to a few remote outposts; spa facilities are being added even in low-end resorts.

The country is also emerging from the peaceful political coup that took place in September 2006, when a military junta wrested power from then President Thaksin Shinawatra. Elections held in late 2007 surprisingly saw a revival of support for the deposed Shinawatra camp, with the election of Samak Sundaravej -- regarded as a Thaksin proxy -- as prime minister.

Today, travelers can really get to know Thailand in a number of different ways. It's possible for guests to try their hand at elephant handling or hot-air ballooning in the north, or help out with turtle conservation in the south. Thai cooking classes and dive centers continue to grow in popularity, and a few luxurious hotels now provide their own schools.

Bangkok

Older shopping centers in the city have been revamped to keep pace with the latest mega-malls, such as Siam Paragon. Moves are also underway by Central, the nation's biggest department store chain, to create an architectural "icon" at its second site at Chidlom.

The capital's most glamorous (and priciest) restaurants, such as Sirocco, Breeze, and Pier 56, each exemplify the new trend in chic, skyscraping diners, while stunning remodeling has totally transformed stellar favorites such as The Oriental's Sala Rim Nam and China House, as well as The Banyan Tree's famous spa.

The city has a number of stylish new hotels as well. Dream Bangkok (tel. 02254-8500) is a 100-room hotel that pays homage to '70s glitz and glam. Cigar bars, Apple Macs, and a pervasive cool blue light (which infuses the rooms) give it a 007 flavor. Expect the extraordinary. The young and modern Millennium Hilton Bangkok (tel. 02625-3333) boasts chic and sharp interiors punctuated by stylish lighting. Hip riverfront dining, funky bars, and a novel spa accentuate its high-design concept. At the summit, guests can enjoy a jazz-vibe and panoramic views from the smoky indoor rooftop bar -- not to mention the splendors of sunset over the Chao Phraya River. The Eugenia (tel. 02259-9017) is a neocolonial-style house in the depths of Klong Toey. This new boutique trendsetter percolates with endless charm. A library, lounge, lap pool, and tropical garden make it a great hideaway.

Suvarnabhumi International Airport, opened in 2006, has generally improved air travel, despite being dogged with scandal, and suffering from innumerable design faults. However, increased air traffic forced the former Don Muang Airport -- now bizarrely renamed Don Mueang Airport -- to re-open in mid-2007 to serve domestic air routes. (Don Mueang flights are differentiated by their 4-digit codes.)

An overhead railway link to Suvarnabhumi is still some years off from completion, but extensions to the BTS over to Thonburi should open soon.

East & West Coast Malay Peninsula

The situation remains unstable along the southern border with Malaysia due to Muslim insurgents; sadly, a political solution seems far from sight. In contrast, the recovery from the 2004 tsunami is progressing. At resort centers such as Patong, some tsunami damage is still visible but by September 2007, Phuket's tourism revenues were reported to have surpassed pre-tsunami levels. Construction of new hotels is still continuing unabated and prices are skyrocketing. A tsunami early warning system is now in place, as well as marked escape routes to high ground. The fatal crash of the budget carrier One-Two-GO in September 2007 dealt a minor blow to this region, however.

Eastern Gulf

Ironically, the south's tsunami brought renewed popularity to Thailand's overlooked eastern seaboard. (In the north, stranded travelers in Chiang Mai discovered the charming rural towns of Lampang and Lamphun -- tourism there has increased.)

Chiang Mai & the Far North

The Thai government's support of cottage industries (collectively known as the "otop" brand) has brought bright, innovative designers together with the region's ample craftsmen to produce upscale housewares, textiles, furniture, glassware, and fashion items from the northern part of the country. Foreign designers such as Franco-Scot, Jennifer Dyson, and Danish-born Hans Christensen are just a few names who are working with local talent to spearhead a new wave of export-quality products made in Thailand's north.


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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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Frommer's Thailand, 8th Edition Frommer's Thailand, 8th Edition

Author: Charlotte Shalgosky
Pub Date: April 21, 2008
Price: $22.99

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