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The Best Small Restaurants

  • Le Bouchon (Bangkok; tel. 02234-9109): A truly precious gem amongst the rabble, this authentic French bistro is embedded in the thick of seamy Patpong. Fine French food and endless top-notch vintages are worth the intrepid voyage into the depths of this saucy soi.

  • Taling Pling (Bangkok; tel. 02234-4872): This rustic-styled lunch and supper spot gets filled to bursting at lunchtime with locals craving both its authentic Thai dishes and carb-packed Western desserts. Foreigners are mercifully provided with a photographic catalog of the Thai menu; just point and eat.

  • Mrs. Balbir's (Bangkok; tel. 02651-0498): A long-time expat, TV chef, and wholly affable and approachable superstar, Vinder, aka Mrs. Balbir, cooks up a mean biryani as well as a finger-licking tikka masala. Divine desserts such as her homemade kulfi (a frozen dairy treat) cost next to nothing. Ask about her cooking lessons.

  • Crystal Jade (Bangkok; tel. 02250-7988): Don't be put off by its clean and sparkly department store location; this tiny Chinese eatery is part of a chain with a huge and loyal fan base. A hearty meal of xiao long bao, fragrant wonton soup, or authentic steamy noodles costs a few dollars and is absolutely authentic.

  • Itsara (Hua Hin; tel. 03253-0574): Set in a 1920s-inspired seaside villa, this Thai and seafood restaurant is a local favorite that incessantly pulls in crowds who come to savor its simple but elegant locale and cuisine.

  • Dream Cafe (Sukhothai; tel. 05561-2081): With a quiet courtyard out back and cool indoor seating, the Dream Cafe is reminiscent of an old temple. It's also a fun find and a great place to relax after a day of temple touring.

  • Khaomao-Khaofang Restaurant (Mae Sot; tel. 05553-2483): This saucy spot boasts an organically inspired decor that's almost as much a reason to visit as the food. True, since the restaurant is out in the boonies on the Burmese border, the pseudo-posh design is out of sync with its surroundings. But the food is plain great and the atmosphere laid-back, if a bit surreal.

  • The Whole Earth (Chiang Mai; tel. 05328-2463): At the Whole Earth, you'll get outstanding Thai and Indian vegetarian food served in a quiet sala in the city center. It's become so well known it's almost an institution among backpackers -- mostly due to its mellow, Greenwich Village vibe. Their branch in Bangkok is equally cool.

  • Le Grand Lanna (Chiang Mai; tel. 05388-8888): Le Grand Lanna is definitely the most romantic northern Thai restaurant in Chiang Mai. You'll feast in an old wooden stilt house amid ginger blooms and orchids, and dine on fare like Burmese khao sawy (noodle curry) and pomelo salad. Lunch and supper come with awesome views of the resort's lily pond and, at sunset, you'll get the chance to see a delightful Lanna dance show.

  • The House (Chiang Mai; tel. 05341-9011): Supper-only is served at this vintage villa at the edge of the Old City of Chiang Mai. In cool, candlelit surrounds, Danish expat Hans Christensen's carefully trained kitchen staff serves up dynamic Pacific Rim cuisine.

  • Golden Triangle Cafe (Chiang Rai; tel. 05371-1339): The Thai menu here tops the list; it's a veritable guided tour of true Thai cuisine. Outside of Chiang Rai's busy market, this is the best dining going in town.

  • Baan Benjarong (Pai; tel. 05369-8010): It's hard to miss this place if you venture into northern Pai. You'll be rewarded with a great feast of authentic local cuisine, for very little.


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    Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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