Long a tony restaurant with a wonderful ocean view, Pier 77 was recently renovated and renamed by husband-and-wife team Peter and Kate Morency. The food, drawing on Peter's training at the Culinary Institute of America and 20 years in top kitchens in Boston and San Francisco, is more contemporary and skillful than almost anything else in Maine. Lunches run to comfort food: barbecued pork, spaghetti and meatballs, cheddar burgers, fried clams. The dinner menu leans toward traditional American favorites (pastas, steaks, lobster) as well, but there are also some slightly more adventurous dishes: A trio of duck courses and a tomato-y seafood stew have landed on the menu, for instance. The restaurant has earned Wine Spectator's awards of excellence since 1993. A more casual section known as the Ramp Bar & Grill stays open all day, even between the lunch and dinner services.