Seeing ANWR for Yourself -- The decades-old national controversy about whether to open the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) to oil exploration created strong interest in seeing that extraordinarily remote northeast corner of Alaska, which is done best in summer on a float trip. While these floats may have started for political reasons, however, their reputation of beauty and adventure have made them an attraction in their own right. The best time to see caribou is in June. Alaska Discovery is famous for ANWR expeditions down from the Brooks Range on either the Kongakut or Hulahula River, and also offers float-supported hikes. Expect to pay as much as $5,000 per person for a trip of up to 2 weeks. Fairbanks-based Arctic Treks, operated for 25 years by Jim Campbell and Carol Kasza (tel. 907/455-6502; www.arctictreksadventures.com), is a smaller company and offers shorter base camp trips in ANWR as well as the long river floats and other arctic journeys. For those who simply want to see ANWR without a wilderness trip, it's possible to visit the Iñupiaq village of Kaktovik, which lies within the boundaries of the refuge. While I wouldn't recommend the journey for most visitors, those with strong interest in a Bush village sojourn may enjoy it. Lodging and meals in Kaktovik are available from the Waldo Arms Hotel (tel. 907/640-6513) a community center known for warm hospitality. Kaktovik is served from Fairbanks by Frontier Flying Service (tel. 800/478-6779 or 907-450-7200; www.frontierflying.com).
