Nightlife

Monterosso -- Monterosso's nightlife centers on the Old Town. Bookending the bocce-ball court between the elevated railroad tracks and the beach are a free outdoor disco Saturday nights in summer and, at the far end, Bar Il Casello, Lungo Ferrovia 70 (no phone), with outdoor tables and beer on tap. Under the railroad tracks and in town itself you'll find Fast, Via Roma 13 (no phone), a pub plastered with movie posters and serving the cheapest beer in town.

Riomaggiore -- Riomaggiore's nightlife, such as it is, revolves around the Bar Centrale, smack in the middle of town at Via C. Colombo 144 (tel. 0187-920-208), with tables set under a roofed wooden deck in the middle of the main drag, Devil's Kiss beer on tap, and a cheap ISDN Internet connection (.10€/13¢ per min.; 3€/$3.90 for half an hour). It's open Tuesday to Sunday 7:30am to 1am.