Active Pursuits

Biking through the Dordogne

The Dordogne's rivers meander to countryside that's among the most verdant and historic in France. This area is underpopulated but dotted with monuments, châteaux, 12th-century villages, and charming churches.

As you bike around, the rural character of the area unfolds before you. Unlike in other regions of France, no château, hotel, or inn treats you disdainfully if you show up on two rather than four wheels. (Au contraire, the staff will probably offer advice on suitable bike routes.) If you're ever in doubt about where your handlebars should lead you, know that you'll rarely go wrong if your route parallels the riverbanks of the Lot, the Vézère, the Dordogne, or any of their tributaries. Architects and builders since the 11th century have added greatly to the visual allure of their watersides.

The SNCF makes it easy to transport a bike on the nation's railways. However, if you don't want to bring your own wheels on the train, there are plenty of rental shops throughout the region.

Le Comité Départemental du Tourism, 25 rue du Président Wilson, Périgueux 24000 (tel. 05-53-35-50-24; fax 05-53-09-51-41; www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr), provides information about all the towns in the département and will help you organize bike, hiking, kayaking, and canoeing trips. Two of the best outdoors outfitters are Canoë Loisir, Residence Vigneras 24200 (tel. 05-53-31-22-92), and Canoë Dordogne, Le Bourg, La Roque Gageac 24250 (tel. 05-53-04-24-08).