The Wine Kitchen

A relaxed, at-home ambience pervades this small bistro-style wine bar, whose motto is "Eat, Drink, Simply." The decor may be eclectic and unexciting, but there is nothing simple about the well-chosen wine list, which whimsically groups its offerings by region under such headings as Pinot Envy. A few excellent Virginia vintages appear, too. All are offered by the bottle, glass, or sampling floats of three glasses. Back in the kitchen, the chef doesn't allow rich sauces to overwhelm the fresh ingredients he has gathered from local family farms. I had a Spanish mackerel filet perfectly pan-seared and served over a delightful succotash made with edamame instead of limas (or as we Southerners would say, baby soy beans instead of baby butter beans). The servings are modest, so I would order a salad and side along with my main course. Reservations are not accepted so arrive early on weekend evenings.

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