For Families

The young folks'll be pleased to learn there's more to the Benelux lands than paintings by the Old Masters (sigh!); Gothic architecture (groan!); struggling with French, Dutch, and Lëtzebuergesch (aak!); and eating mussels (no way!). Actually, you don't need to worry too much about the lingo since most natives speak English. And there are hundreds of fun family-friendly things to see and do in these three countries -- remember, Benelux burghers have kids too!

Day 1: Brussels

Whenever the kids step out of line in Brussels, uttering these magic words should get their attention: "Maybe we should tour the European Union administrative buildings today." I'd wager that they (and you) would prefer the Atomium. And while you're there, in the city's northern Bruparck district, you can spend some time at the Océade water park and Mini-Europe. Back in the center of town, treat the kids to an exposé of bold little Manneken-Pis; grown-ups usually wonder what all the fuss is about, but kids love him. By the way: Going around the city by tram can't hurt.

Day 2: More of Brussels

Boys, especially, might want to take a look under the hood of Autoworld today. And is it being sexist to suggest that the girls might prefer costumes and lace at the Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle? Both genders will likely agree that the comic strips and characters at the Centre Belge de la Bande-Dessinée are pretty cool.

Day 3: Bruges

In this historic Flemish city, you can swerve past Old Masters, Gothic architecture, and mussel-slurping diners in one fast move. Achieve this satisfying feat by visiting the Boudewijn Seapark or the Kinderboerderij Domein De Zeven Torentjes -- (or maybe both?). The open-top canal-cruise boats are another good bet. And it's safe to go around by rented pedal-bike in the center of town.

Day 4: The Belgian Coast

A day at the seacoast is a no-brainer for families, especially in summer -- just imagine building sandcastles on the beach, swimming in the sea, and riding beach buggies and sand-yachts. You can get around by Coast Tram. At Ostend there's the Noordzeeaquarium, and the museum ships Mercator and Amandine. Up the coast at Knokke-Heist, allow some time to check out the bird sanctuary Natuurreservaat Het Zwin.

Day 5: Antwerp

Begin day 5 in Antwerp, with a visit to Belgium's only traditional zoo. Then, in the afternoon, you can cross over to Aquatopia. For other options, consider a cruise downriver to the harbor, and/or a visit to the National Maritime Museum.

Days 6 & 7: The Ardennes

From Antwerp, the drive here takes long enough that I'd suggest allocating 2 days for your family's visit to Han-sur-Lesse. On the first day, drive to the village and visit the underground caverns of the Grottes de Han; the next day, spend some time at the Réserve d'Animaux Sauvages before moving on.

Day 8: Rotterdam

Today, make your way to the Euromast for the greatest views of Rotterdam. Afterward, you'll probably need to choose between a boat tour of the city's vast harbor and a visit to the outstanding Blijdorp Zoo, but if you have time for both, by all means fit them in.

Day 9: Amsterdam

Going around Amsterdam by tram is fun for the whole family. I'm not sure, though, about going by bicycle. Parents might need to spend too much time watching out for the kids. I suppose it all depends on what age the children are. A canalboat cruise is a good idea. A visit to the Anne Frank House is interesting and thought-provoking for children about as old as Anne was when she hid from the Nazis here and wrote her famous diary. After this, try the Artis Zoo, or -- if you've had enough of zoos by now -- the Scheepvaartmuseum (Maritime Museum), where you can go onboard the Amsterdam, a full-size replica 18th-century ocean-going sailing ship.

Day 10: More of Amsterdam

Today, choose between a visit to Madame Tussaud's and the NEMO Science Center -- either one is worthwhile, but both in a single day can be too much, unless it's raining. By way of variation, you could try in-line skating in Vondelpark, ice skating at Jaap Edenbaan, or bowling at Knijn Bowling.

Day 11: Dolphins & Sailing Ships

From Amsterdam (your base), drive east today to Harderwijk and visit the outstanding Dolfinarium. Cross over into Flevoland province and head to Lelystad. Here, at Batavia Wharf, a full-size replica of a 17th-century sailing ship, the Batavia, is moored, and a man-of-war from the same century, De Zeven Provinciën, is being constructed.

Day 12: Enkhuizen

This town lies on the western shore of the IJsselmeer, a freshwater lake that until 1932 was a sea known as the Zuiderzee. Enkhuizen hosts the superb Zuiderzeemuseum, which aims to recreate traditional life around the transformed sea. Between getting to and from Enkhuizen and visiting both sections of this large museum, you'll need most of a day to do it all justice.

Day 13: Zandvoort

Always supposing the weather is good, there's nothing your standard young Amsterdammer likes more than to take a train for the short ride to Amsterdam's favorite seacoast resort, Zandvoort, on the North Sea.

Day 14: Back to Brussels

One way to break the monotony of a 3-hour drive back to Brussels is to stop off at the cluster of windmills at Kinderdijk, close to Rotterdam.